Timd

cheers champ

pm sent

I was having overheating probs with the rb20det in my 280zx. Checked thermostat, flushed engine and radiator still overheated. Pulled the aircon condensor off(i dont use air con anyway, thats what t-tops are for!) problems solved. Air had to pass through the I/C and condensor before the radiator saw any of it. Still using stock zed radiator(to my knowlegde) and no probs. Thermos are still on the cards eventually

bump

what do you do for a heat shield once the new manifold is fitted?

no idea was the car baked when you got it resprayed? may have effected electrics?

will do it in fourth as well. I dont usually give it a whole heap in the lower gears in everyday driving specially since ive been having probems so i couldnt say how it acts in that situation. Dont think i have a speed limiter on the Blitz Access ecu ive got. Is it possibly a lose ecu connection or similar? thanks for reply

Just reading your post again. Your prob sounds similar to mine.(see post in forced induction) making boost, reving out, no audible pinging etc. I replaced spark plugs bout a week ago, tested coil packs, fine. Ill let you know if i come up with something. Went to overtake a ute pulling a trailer today at 110, only just made it past :Oops: lol

Im chasing a Power FC + Hand controller for an RB20DET. If anyone has one or knows of one please let me know. cheers

Would much appreciate any input here heres my problem In 5th the zed is maxing out at about 110km/h. The turbo is making boost fine, havnt got my tacho hooked up but its making revs. There is no audible pinging but I can only guess that its a problem with fuelling. Far as i can tell the rail is getting fuel, pump is priming ok. This leaves injectors. Is there anyway i can test them? Could it be timing? It doesnt feel like the usual CAS problem i sometimes have when its cold, could it CAS related tho? cheers its an rb20, -not clutch related either

If there is and your willing to help me out with a few questions, can you post. Particularly those with rb20s. Even those with knowledge relating to this product. cheers

CAS? mine does this when its cold. I put it down to the CAS

looks as though the locating pin on the cam has been snapped off. think it was already snapped and when i took the cas off it fell out. Seems to me as though cas will work without the pins as long as its lined up properly on the cam. I REALLY dont want to have to swap the phucken cam:mad: So is there any other way of lining it up or is it just trial and error, which is just about impossible cause you cant look at it while lining it up. or should i just start looking for another cam?

you say the key may be ground off for use with some ecus, would this have been done to run a blitz access?

basically i need to know what an intact key should look like so i can make a comparrison with mine to assess the damage. reckon you could describe one? cheers

have the CAS here with me. can you explain exactly what the key should look like as there is some obvious chewed metal in the CAS shaft. at the end of the shaft there is a half circle of metal, although in the hole where the CAS shaft goes there is just a flat shaft not another half circle? hope that makes sense.

ill go take a look and report back cheers for reply champ

ok pulled my belt cover and cas off today to inspect timing belt. I marked the position of the cas before i removed it but when i put it back together and turned it over it wouldnt start. I fiddled with the cas again, checked for any loose connections and tried to start it again. This time it cranked over a bit then stopped as though something was stopping it from turning over. hoping like hell the valves didnt kiss the pistons. I thought this would only happen if playing with the cam gears? Cam gears and belt wasnt touched, only the cas. hoping someone can help me cause the cars sittin out next to the road, dont want to leave it there over night! cheers

i was waiting for that i have searched

what would your diagnosis be on 'squeeking' power steering. Fluid is fine happens while stationary and while moving, steering also becomes heavy

Ive been having problems starting the zed lately. Over the last 2 days it has gotten even worse than normal. It may take 10 attempts to fire it, then when it finally goes it will only jussssttt idle and you can feel the motor jumping quite violently all over the shop. I have replaced plugs, cleaned air filter/AFM, new fuel filter, recent oil change etc. Farks me as to what is going on but ive had enough. Can someone suggest things to look at in an attempt to fix the bugger. its an r32 rb20det.

hi I know its possible to reset the factory ecu. My question is, can i rest my blitz access without any dramas? im having some running problems with the rb so am slowly eliminating things. I just want to know if it will bugger it. Dont care if it has no positive effect id like to do it just for peace of mind. cheers............Tim

I have also heard or read somewhere that it is not a good idea to wrap cast exhaust manifolds. Cant remember why if i come across the reason ill post it.

thanks for the replys back to the drawing board

Hey everyone I pulled my pod and AFM off today to give them a clean. On inspection i noticed that the rear most mesh(closest to turbo) was torn and pretty badly damaged. Can anyone tell me the problems which this may have caused? For examply I have trouble starting it in the morning is this a result of the bodgy AFM? can i swap this mesh with one found on a more common vehcle or are they vehicle specific. Its an rb20det. cheers