Timd

evening everyone Just recently i have been experiencing boost controll problems with the zed(rb20)i cant say the problem coincided with any work done so im stuck I cant seem to adjust the boost i run anymore. Im using a simple pneumatic contoller which used to work fine for me. I played around with it today, and no matter where i set it, it read 5psi on the boost guage. I even took the controller out altogether, no change. The boost doesnt feel as though it changed with these changes either. what should i be looking for i have checked lines etc, all seems fine? cheers

Shane just read the autospeed article, besides the idle prob, did you find the install beneficial? did you source the parts form the supplyer mentioned on the autospeed site?

hi everyone Got my car back today after having the 5speed(rb20det)reconditioned. I decided to have it done due to the box whining, syncros bodgy etc. After taking it for a drive ive noticed its not a whole lot better than before it was recond. After spending close to 1500 for the thing, including removal/fitting, im farkin dissapointed with the result Were my expectations too high? or should i kick up a stink. Id appreciate anyone else whos had experience with reco boxes to let me know how it went. are they meant to come back feeling like new? cheers

evening all Got my car back today after having the 5speed(rb20det)reconditioned. I decided to have it done due to the box whining, syncros bodgy etc. After taking it for a drive ive noticed its not a whole lot better than before it was recond. After spending close to 1500 for the thing, including removal/fitting, im farkin dissapointed with the result Were my expectations too high? or should i kick up a stink. Id appreciate anyone else whos had experience with reco boxes to let me know how it went. cheers

I think it comes down to whatever YOU feel comfortable with. If your happy to drive it soon as it turns over go for it, as others have said probably wont do damage if its babyd for a few minutes. If you prefer to let it sit for a minute fine, not hurting anyone, you couldnt spit more fuel than is being used in that minute either. Personally i let mine sit until i have seatbelt on, windows down or until i feel ready to drive off(minute or so). I believe my car runs better if left to warm up a little, specially on these cold mornings. I know ppl with v8s, skylines etc who will turn there car over in their driveway, walk back inside do this and that then drive it. They swear by it. Just like those speeding adds, is taking that extra minute to get to your destination really going to make a difference? IMO

the valve lets gasses move only from the rocker to the plenum. Just leave it there or block it off but dont try and turn the valve around. When in doubt, leave things as nissan intended

This type of thing has happened to me more times than i care to remember. My problem is where i park it, near a main road and i have no alternatives, wont go up my driveway My last car was keyed, bottles thrown at it etc etc. I remember when i was prepping a gemini for paint years ago in my driveway some maggot threw a full beer bottle and creased the rear quarter to shite. Its either drunk fools, cowards or little punks running around at night. Someone tried to break into my zed just the other night with a screwdriver. I hear everything now, i wake to the smallest disturbances outside my house, its rediculous. Anyway enough whinging from me re keying ppls cars. I say go ahead and key if its called for, as long as you have the cods to stand in front of the owner and deal with the consequenses. "do the crime-do the time" its so simple.

anyone??

Hi everyone I have a malpassi regulator in my zed(on rb20det)and i dont know alot about these. So i am hoping that someone can shed some light on how they work, what they do etc. Id also like to know what things can go wrong with them etc as im not sure mine is working. the guage sits on the lowest point, how do i know if its working?? thanks in advance

any ideas on what wire i can tap?

Thanks for the reply mate Just what i wanted to know, i wouldnt be running more than 1bar through it so it is still within its limit, good stuff. I am still going to have to upgrade though. As i have turbo inlet, i/c inlet and outlet all running ontop of each other due to the in/outlet being on the same side of this cooler. This leaves my pod tucked up in the left corner getting bugger all cool air. My plan is to run the i/c out pipe under the drivers guard and into the bay, behind the radiator and up over the rocker cover. This should free me up some space for an air box or at least cold air ducting. Its tricky in the 280zx as theres not much space to work with. Do you know if there has to be any engineering if i cut a hole in the engine bay(leading out to under the guard) for i/c out pipe? Should it be reinforced in the event it may cause weekness? thanks again

I finally found a picture of the cooler i currently have cooling my rb20. I think its of a 7MGTE (MA70 Supra). Does anyone have an idea of their level of efficiency, ie, how much boost can safely be run through it? im upgrading soon though still would like to know. Its the bigger one pictured with inlet/outlet on same end. cheers

Cant wire into the dash unfortunately. Because its a conversion(rb20 into 280zx) apparently the signals are different, please dont ask me to explain electrics arent my thing. Ive got a blitz computer(jap thing, apparently cant be tuned here in aus) so i was hoping for an actual wire to look for, maybe going to ignition coils?

Hi everyone Im hoping someone can help me with installing a tacho on my rb20det. Can someone tell me which wire will give me the rpm reading?? cheers

as i thought anyone have the part number for rb20 coppers?

what do the coppers go for? i went and talked to my local autoone they told me coppers and platinums were one in the same item and the prices quoted for those and iridiums were basically the same. To make it easy for them, id be interested to know the part number for coppers for my rb20 cheers

I undid the locknut and would the tierod to even bhoth sides up, both now 'look' parallel but somethings still seriously wrong. the lesson here is to not rush when, hopefully i can sort it out tomorrow. ohr3ot im about 20 minutes south of the QLD border

by the way it has an RB20DET in it if that will help me to get replies :jk:

Hi everyone Ive just ugraded the springs and shockes in my 280zx and saw that both balljoints and tierods were cactus too, so i replaced them. The probolem i have is on the drivers side tierod, i lost the position of the locknut(the which tightend the tierod to rack and pinion) I only just realised it then when i reversed it out of the garage to park it. One wheel is pointing straight ahead while the other is pointing out as if turning. As you can imagine i had a bloody hard time driving it. I want to know how to do a bodgy wheel alignment just so i can limp it over to get a proper one done, or ill be paying big money for a tow. Any help would be greatly appreciated

im experiencing the same problems with my rb20 what can be done if it is a CAS problem?

pull the whole head off, its a 250 crossflow, not that big a job. Get one of those plastic 2ltr pump spray cans fill it with petrol and spray the whole shit show. Buy a VRS kit prolly 100 bucks for mono torque set and put it back together. Give him a chance to look at the condition of the thing in general

pm sent

Hi everyone Im looking for someone on the Gold Coast who will rebuild my rb20 and not having much luck. If someone can point me in the direction of a shop that will do it for me it'd be much appreciated. What would be a rough gestimate on the price of factory spec rebuild? cheers