japsky33

I dont use it to say I have ex amount of power, i use it to show the power I have and have gained from different mods becuase when it comes down to it there to be driven on the road/track not on the dyno all its life. As for the 10mph difference well you said it yourself the car ran out of rev's ? If it hadnt run out of revs probably would have run the similar MPH. - I have seen different dyno readings from just tyre pressure. - If the dyno wasnt in shoot out mode and you had the dyno 285fbsl you also would see more HP. Even in shootout mode The power would be different just from being a different dyno! As I said this could go on for ever thanks for your input Br, JH

if its not visible to see which one is cracked I have blown a few and ended up with a big crack down the middle but generally they wont fire at all in this state. what you would do is see if you can borrow some for 30mins switch them over and through a process of Elimination determine which one(s) are causing the issue. I WOULD DO the spark plugs before the coil packs just to be 100% sure should only cost you around 25dollars and as for the coil packs ive seen them from 80dollars each. BR, JH

Sorry SydneyKid I disagree. As i race my cars at the track frequently and recieve the same MPH or with in 5mph everytime regardless of day/weather/track conditions. if you get a good clean pass through all the gears your mph is a great example of the power that you are making. I have watched my cars through the modifications and had great success with this method I also get Dyno prints. Ive tried tyre sizes/pressure/suspension and different tunes and gear ratios all similar effects to the MPH. My car made 277rwkw on the dyno yesterday is this an accurate figure of power ? Other days with different tyre sizes pressure and rubber ive made over 300rwkw. The amount of power lost through the wheels spinning made it inaccurate 4 people in the boot and strapped down tight didnt help it. Some people like there dynos id rather MPH shows alot about the overall power of the car. IT also seperates the dyno read out bullshit artists and the true performance of your car and its modifications theres no better way in my book. for instance, SR20 180sx 14.1 @ 96mph RB26 180sx 14.0 @ 126mph - Offuisly copious amounts of wheel spinning are causing his Time to be slow but look at the mph he has since bettered that time to a 12.2 @ 128mph showing simliar mph but better Time. So an oil down effected his MPH what about an uncalibrated Dyno effecting his power output ? this could go on for ever, im talking clean dyno run V's clean drag run. BR, JH

Hi Yogi, Everything but the Gtt cooler sounds great Im not sure of the flow etc with the GTT cooler though you will benefit with something like a GTR front mounted intercooler, "assuming you have this GTT cooler still side mounted". I couldnt say what your results are becuase the most important thing you have left out which means its probably standard the ECU (not even remapped) ? With out the ecu you are not going to be getting the full benefit from these mods. but id like to say you should crack over 200rwkw and the 13psi you should be able to wind that up as well once the ecu is in or remapped BR, JH

He could be down on compression/timing slightly out/computer in some queer mode/different size tyres different dyno blah blha etc etc You cant really compare your mods and expect the same number from another car with the same. What you can do is get each others REAL drag MPH from the track and match those up. Br, JH

Doctor 30 if your getting ignition break down then its not going to go hard of course. Check your plug gap sizes i usually go .7 and run some NGK coppers or Bosch Coppers. and try that. BR, JH

P.S There was one with GT30 etc at Jamboree last week standard motor making 410HP at the treads revving to 8700rpm!! OH YEAH sounded great to. BR, JH

Hey guys, Sydneykid is correct you can stretch the standard injectors to around the 225rwkw. To reach 200Rwkw with the RB20 a different turbo will be needed definitely pump/regulator and PowerFC,Front mount and exhaust. In Zoom with the "brains project" they got 220rwkw with HKS turbo,standard computer remapped (By Martin Donnon) upgraded pump,regulator,fmic and i think 14psi they also relocated the throttle body to the front of the plenum So its going to cost you alot more then 2.5K I would suggest going the whole hog RB20's can take it and they love it.. GT30,Ex Gate,PwrFC,Injectors,Pump,FMIC,after market plenum and throttlebody. at least then you wont be at 200rwkw for 6 months and be looking at more mods and having to do these things anyway and finding your turbo's to small or your computer isnt good enough. My 2 cents. BR, JH

WOW! Thats sweet 9000 ? And it was still pulling all the way ? thats very impressive.. :wassup: JH

HI Nv033, There’s no real way of saying what’s the limit of a standard RB25 because it depends on the driving conditions. Obviously excessive RPM all the time and high power outputs is going to cause an issue. I’m making just over 320rwkw and I’m not really keen to lean on the motor anymore with the standard rods that’s a personnel thing I don’t want to be buying a new block and rebuilding my motor just yet. If your willing to stretch it to the point of blowing and then purchasing the new rods and block that’s your decision. I know Martin Donnan has had a lot of experience with RB25's and he says anything over 300rwkw is pushing it as Steve-sst just said though he has not seen any problems at this power level except a rod bolt and I agree with going the ARP bolts. But I think everybody would agree that much over 320rwkw the 25's days are limited in standard form. Personally I would decide what power output your looking for and what you want to use the car for occasional drag or drifting ? If its over the 320rwkw that you want then change to RB26 rods. Let me tell you the difference between 290- 320rwkw is not really noticeable on the road because you will still be sliding all over it. So it’s your decision BR, JH

Hi Phat Mr30, Theres no set limit where you will require forged pistons as a good tune will keep a motor intact until the power is to great for the rods. If your looking at making over 300Kw at the wheels then you will also need to be changing the rods to forged items. As for the headgaskets I have run myn at 22 psi for over a year and had no problems completley standard motor once again its the tune that plays a huge part.. The RB26 rods are stronger then 25's and The arias pistons are great for your application and cheap Br, JH

Its not really for the "racing it" thing its more to have fun we the people and cars that we enjoy.. If we had 10 Skylines from the forums go there all together and race it would be great everybody would be more into it and push each other further then you would see awhole bunch more skylines coming out faster and faster. Is there only 1 10second Gts-t in the country ? The reason I didn race either of my car's is becuase I was ill with some gamblibacktor bloody chicken disease or something sorry or else I would have.I only just made it through the two days but it was worth it and im still crook now. I also saw that 180sx from hardcore performance they really made a name for themselves there it was such a beaten up old bomb looking car couldnt believe it when i saw under the bonnet had some setup issues holding it back on the weekend though. Dont get me wrong guys Im not having a go at people It would just be great to make a SAU appearance in large and get some big power cars there. BR, JH

Hey, I'm writing this thread sitting in my hotel room at the 2004 Jamboree QLD. The fastest gts-t you see at these big events are high 12s most running 13s-14s, There must be 2 dozen people on here talking about there 300+kw Skylines where are you guys ? It gets a little boring watching 100+ 10second Rotarys all day (Its still exciting dont get me wrong). The fastest SR class piston cars are Datsons/Subbies, Sr20's fj20's. And the occasional GTR which are always fast. Bring on the loud External Gate Belching Gts's, Tell me when ya's are taken them to WSID on a wednesday night and Ill be sure to bring myn and a few friends along!. OR lets organise a night! Stuff talking about HP talk about Numbers/MPH no room for error with dynos then. BR, JH

Hey Guys, Got pictures all sorted now will post them to everyone that has replied thanks for the interest. Email Pics soon JH

Not dead engine you just wont bed the rings in an she'll burn oil.. Not blue smoke out the back either you will just be down on oil all the time.. *The above depending on how bad the rings have not bedded in.* I give a safe 300 - 500kmhs then open her up BR, JH

oh and another thing have your tune spot on so your not using to much fuel as to not 'petrol wash your bores' *yeah i know this can happen at any time its just a warning for somebody who has just invested in a rebuild* BR, JH

Just take it easy for the first 3 - 6 thousand k's always changing RPM, when first start is done drive for a bit at different revs then load it up a hill with your brakes on a couple of times. never drive at a constant rpm and dont rev hard. You dont want to thrash it with the running in oil becuase its shit oil and will carbonise easier then normal oil causing seal damage on your Turbo. All the motors we rebuild and some have made over 600HP for more then 2 years have been fine with this method. BR, JH

I agree how does it ?

HI Abo Bob, You can bump up the boost but its very important to have this done professionally as you will need to increase the diesel this is not like a petrol car to much fuel is actually as bad or worse then to lean increasing the exhaust temps will melt a piston and making them to cold will melt a piston i think the exhaust temp has to be 550Degrees ?and this is checked by a pyrometer (anyone can tell me im wrong here). So once again take it to a diesel mechanic or somewhere similar that can adjust pump rates on your diesel accuratley. Exhaust modss i have seen increase power on non-turbo diesels so I would assume they would help on the turbo diesels once again ask a diesel mechanic. BR, JH

Steve, It made its max power at around 180km at what revs is this in 4th gear ? BR, JH

Thats cool, yes whats your email address ?

WHITE ? LOL... Your worried about the colour....

NISSAN SKYLINE 1995 R33 GTS-t ( 9 Months Rego ) Engine: RB25DET – BRAND NEW FROM EMPTY CRACK TESTED BLOCK UPWARDS. Wiesco Forged Pistons And Rings Race Doubled Up Slide Pins, Instead of circlips. Bored out 20Th New Bearings big ends, little ends All new seals rear main/complete VRS KIT. Valve Stem Seals Head totally reconditioned Done 630Kms Since Complete Rebuild All receipts and pictures of rebuild for proof to purchaser XTR GT35/40 Turbo Teil 48ml Wastegate w/ Screamer Pipe Dyno Dave Tuned Length Exhaust Manifold – Work of art. Custom Made Plenum 80ml Throttle Body Trust Front Mount Intercooler Turbo XS Bleed Controller XTR Turbo Blanket EMS STINGER 800 Nismo 770cc Injectors Bosch Motorsports Fuel Pump NISMO Mechanical 9Plate DIFF (none of this viscous crap) 5Puk Clutch And Pressure Plate 500HP HKS Air Pod Silicon Hoses everywhere the silicon hose from the inlet to the Air pod is $500 alone. Turbosmart Blow Off Valve Exterior: All new pineapples and suspension 18Inch DTM wheels 3 ¼ inch exhaust with trust muffler Remote Central Locking Full Alarm / Immobiliser Interior: Sony CD Player New motor has now been on the dyno recording a massive 329rwkw at 17psi and 365 at 23psi motor has travelled around 9K kms. Car is immaculate inside and out $25,800 ONO Please email me at [email protected]

Hi, Car still for sale has run at WSID now with 12.542 @ 117mph 2.4sec 60foot time so much more in it. $25,600 BR, JH

Hi mate, with regards to spinning on the rims Im not sure I am no way a tyre expert I just tried the 20psi then 15 but found huge difference with sub 10psi in them. Yes doing 12's on standard turbo does amaze me a bit. ?? Have you guys got a dyno print out ? The guys pulling the high 12s ons tandard turbos? BR, JH