powerhearse

Argh, meant to post this in classifieds

http://carsales.mobi/cars/details/1998-nissan-stagea-25t-rs-wgc34/SSE-AD-2739691 Selling the Stagea as I've bought myself an Evo 7 and no longer need the storage space - it's like the opposite of the norm!! Anyway all details in the ad, yellow S2 RWD Stagea 131,500 km, stock except for 3" turbo back exhaust, hi flow panel filter and boost gauge. Requires some paint work if you want it in show condition, but overall great condition; major service done and splitfires recently installed Asking $9800 ONO

Thought I saw heaps of Stageas near Mawson Lakes that day...I was working

Sounds good! Keen to see what some others have done

I've had this happen a couple times over the past 6 months; including some strange immobilizer activity.<br /><br />The first time I had the "AT" (auto trans) light come on and I noticed that the car stuck itself in 3rd gear or higher; it seemed to lock out 1st and 2nd.<br /><br />I tested it with the sequential, but the car wouldn't go into first or second gear.<br /><br />So I turned the car off and on again to try to clear it in case it was a computer fault, and the alarm/immobiliser went off. And I couldn't stop it. Had to manually disconnect alarm and battery and reconnect before the car would start.<br /><br />Haven't had the alarm thing happen since but the AT light/locking out 1st/2nd has happened once since.<br /><br />Any ideas? <br /><br />Not sure if its related but the engine seems to "stick" a a bit at 1500 rpm when cruising; I increase throttle and boost increases but revs stick at 1500 before suddenly jumping to 2000. Seems to have a slight vibration when this happens too.<br /><br />I'm thinking it might be trans related but not sure

Okay, so I've been reading through the multitude of threads on this topic and am having problems figuring out what the situation is, and I'd appreciate any help anyone can offer! You guys out there with S2 RS Stageas, what is the brake situation? I've just had to have my rotors machined and I'm looking at new rotors and pads. Couple questions: 1. Are there any brake upgrade options with minimal machining for RWD S2? For example I've seen the R33 GTST / R34 upgrades on the RS4 models but not for the RS. 2. Is there a replacement rotor/pad available at the moment for the RS? I know the front brakes are different to the RS4 so I'm having trouble finding the correct replacement parts. Cheers!

Hi mate, I'll take the headlights if they're xenon

Nice mate! Where do you fight out of?

Awesome, cheers for that, yeah I was thinking it might be a leak of some kind....seems to be okay now though, maybe the hose wasn't onto the AFM properly like you say?

Changed the pod filter back over to the stock air box, other than that I haven't changed anything...I put the pod back on the other day and had to disconnect the AFM so I thought maybe I'd freaked the computer out?

Had a funny idea for a Stagea cruise today - a weekend's camping trip / cruise sleeping in the back 1. Half day's drive on Saturday to the Flinders or equivalent 2. Camp for the night in caravan park or similar 3. Park the Stags in a circle (tailgates facing in) 4. Fire in the middle. 5. ??? 6. Profit! 7. Cruise home at leisurely pace Sunday Probably will never happen for shift workers like me though!

Is the plastic protection inside the front wheel arches that bolts to the bumper removable/available? Mine was damaged in an accident awhile ago and no longer bolts properly to the underside of the bumper

Yeah, I went and looked at the 2 there but 550 for the good one is a bit steep considering I have to get it resprayed to yellow (extra 300 or so). I found a standard bar in yellow for 300 bucks and whacked that on for now - still looking for a dayZ bar! If I can't find one for a better price by the time I've saved enough I might cave and buy that one

Hey guys, want to buy a C34 S2 front bar cover - Dayz preferably but also happy with standard. In Adelaide but happy to pay shipping

On my C34 s2 stagea - Got the misfire problem sorted and it was great for a while, now this problem has cropped up. I've noticed a definite decrease in power; it seems to rev just as hard and the boost gauge indicates boost but it's not accelerating properly. If anything it appears to boost more in the lower rev range than before; it feels like the boost comes on with less throttle but the power just isn't being delivered. I've also noticed when accelerating slowly in second or third, as you increase pressure on the accelerator the revs increase from 1k to 2k, then drop back down to about 1.5k with no change to throttle position and I can hear a faint rumble/vibration. It takes an unusual amount of right foot to power through it then it seems to be normal. Except for being considerably less powerful/smooth. My first thoughts were leak somewhere or maybe AFM as I had to disconnect the AFM to change the pod filter back to the stock air box, maybe I dislodged something? Would unplugging the AFM cause the ECU to freak out a little?

What's this?? Another canary stag in Adelaide! Is the owner on here? I want to find out what exhaust you fitted haha

Black c34 s2 with leather interior and front mount at the On the Run service station on Main North Road, Elizabeth tonight!

Saw a black M35 with pedobear sticker on North East Road near Holden Hill today - I'm driving a green Barina till my C34 gets back from the workshop!

The coil packs in it are brand new, replaced to try to solve this problem. Don't think they're Splitfires though, I might put a set of those in anyway

Hey guys, newbie here! Sorry my first post is with a problem...I've search functioned this problem on here and haven't been able to find any new solutions as yet... So here's the story. Since I bought my Stag ( C34 S2 RWD Auto) it's been having an intermittent misfire problem; the first I noticed was that on startup the Check Engine, TCS Off and Slip lights were all coming on. There was also a vibration I could feel through the steering wheel, felt like a slight misfire. When I first bought it the guys from Redline told me it had been having this problem, but that they had replaced coil packs and plugs and it hadn't happened since. Well, it was still happening. Since then I've taken it back several times, had the O2 sensor and AFM changed and a wiring loom problem fixed. The problem is less regular now but still happening, and if anything it feels like the misfire is getting worse (vibrations through the whole car now getting worse). The misfire seems to go away after about 15 minutes of driving, but the TCS and Slip lights stay on (I assume this is because the ECU hasn't reset yet). At first I thought it was only happening when the engine was relatively cold, but a couple times now it's started missing halfway through a 30min drive. When the miss is bad I can stand outside the car when it's idling and hear a popping from the exhaust. Driving-wise, when above about 2500rpm the problem seems to go away but there's a definite reduction in power. At idle through to about 1500rpm seems to be the worst, and it seems to resonate badly at a throttle position just above neutral throttle (exhaust resonating I think, as it vibrates through the rear of the car). When throttle is applied in neutral, the problem isn't as bad as when driving. The vibration only really occurs at idle when it's in neutral. I'm taking it back in again tomorrow to get the ECU checked out, but any ideas would be appreciated. TL;DR version: C34 RWD Auto: Intermittent misfire + check engine lights. Coil packs, plugs, O2 sensor and AFM replaced, wiring loom problem fixed. Still happening.

Howdy! I'm the new owner of a powerhearse (Stagea C34 RWD) from Adelaide - please tolerate my noobish questions, I'm new to imports and pretty new to cars in general. Thoroughly enjoying this machine!