CAT_SPEW

After a KE70 4 door manual, body doesn't really bother me. Just needs a half decent engine running. Brisbane/Gold Coast area 0413120864 MSN: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Cheers, Matt.

Had a mechanic come out with a laptop and chek it out through the haltech. Looks like I've shorted out the crank angle sensor. Will try and sort it out tommorow

That didn't work. I'm not sure if it's an S1 or S2, but the guy before me has put two igniter packs screwed on the coil cover. Got a guy coming to look at it now so so if he can fix it

Will go give that a go now

Last night I drove my car up from the shed (backyard) to my driveway, parked it there then went inside. Came out about 2 hours later and went to start the car. It would turn over but not start??? Chcked the fuel lines, plenty coming through. But when we checked to see if there was spark on one of the coils. It only sparked when I turned the ignition on, then nothing when I wound it over??? Already called the people who installed the alarm and we've pretty much ruled that out (viper 3000) So has anyone PLEASE! got any ideas?? It's an RB25DET.. Cheers

Thanks for that 2rismo, I'll give him a PM. Anyone else had any experiences?

I don't know if this is in the right thread, but anyway. Can anyone tell me what the first things that are mosot likely to break in the 25? I'm considering a bolt on package (GT35/40) but need to know what I should be replacing/upgrading first internally so it will hold a bit more power reliably? I'm aiming for around 350-450hp until I save for a complete rebuild, does this sound achievable? Sitting on around 330hp atm

To be honest I wouldn't know how hard it was to bolt up because I bought the car with it already installed. No idea on price either but when I will try and find out because I will be selling mine when the new setup has arrived and is ready to go on. Has not got alot of lag but I've never really looked to see when I hit full boost, I will next time I go out. 2BNVS - Was that full boost at 4000 or only just starting to spool I'm guessing? Also what setup are you running to make 352RWkw @ 16Psi?

PM sent The car will be used for street aswell as track days now and then.

I'm planning on upgrading my turbo setup in the next couple of months hopefully and I'm looking for peoples opinions/suggestions. RB25DET Current state -Custom plenum -FMIC -Larger fuel pump -Jim Berry 3500lb clutch -740cc's -Haltech E6K -Exhaust -RX7 S4/S5 tubro highflowed plus the usuals Currently making about 250rwkw on 15Psi This is just a rough list of what I'm planning on adding. -Garrett GT35/40 .70a/r .86 exh 700hp External gate -Tial 45mm gate -Unknown what manifold??? -Custom dump Feel free to give me suggestions non what you think, as I said this is only a rough list. I'm hoping to get 400hp before I have to start building the engine, does this look possible?? Also, when should I be expecting full boost by? 4500?? Cheers, Matt.

Thanks for the help, I changed the plugs as soon as I bought the car then gapped them down to .8 so thats all good. I just went for a strap then and it is running fine so hopefully it will stay that way. Otherwise, spitfires

I know alot of people have a misfiring problem in their RBXX's but I'm trying to find out if just throwing some brand new spitfire coilpacks in there should solve the problem? I have checked the packs countless times, wrapped them in tape, cheacking for any signs of burns/cracks and have found nuthing. The thing that I don't get is that it will happen one time, then another time it will be fine. Usually after being hot for a while is when it occurs in high revs.. Any help would be really appreciated

Does anyone know where I can buy a roll of this thermal wrap over the net? I've been looking on Nengun and can't find anything????

Just saw this on another site, would be good to have another place to race. PETITION

Unfortunatly it isn't on a flange atm, just welded straight on. One of my dads friends has a DB meter so when it comes time to decide I will chop it of, test it. And if it's too loud then I will just go with your idea Nismoid and weld a flange on Just out of curiosity, what muffler do you have xr8eater?

R31Nismoid- What do mean by getting a flange welded on? Do you mean so I could just take the "cannon" off for track use then stick it back on when on the road? Semms like a good idea And I haven't haven't it DB tested yet..

R31Nismoid - Don't take this the wrong way, but have you heard a straight pipe on a RB25? Or are you just assuming it would be really loud? Just curious? Can anyone recommend a decent exhaust to get? That isn't very pricey? Or are they all basically the same just with a different brand name?

The exhaust (cannon) on my car is screwed, it has a bit of a smash on the bottom which I have been told would of broken the baffle or whatever is inside. It has a rattle to it when the car is running, and the tuner said that it would be robbing me of power the way it is. I have been thinking of just cutting it off and welding a straight pipe where it was which I'm sure you have all seen on "drift" cars. But I'm not sure of how loud it will make the car?? It isn't very quiet as it is, but I don't want it going any louder if possible. The exhaust is 3" from the turbo back, and I can't remember if there is a Cat-converter etc. on there. Any help would be much appreciated. Cheers

PM replied, still for sale atm

I have just got hold of a new bonnet scoop from MFX Bodykits that I will not be needing. The reason I got it was from a discount after buying my kit from them, so instead of money back I got this to sell as it won't fit on my S13. It's not the same material/color as in the pic, as far as I can tell it is fibreglass in grey. They retail for $100 and it is brand new straight from MFX, so make an offer. But if noone wants it I will just keep it for my next car In Brisbane BTW.

Engine, exhaust/inlet manifold, injectors, computer, Large KKK K27 1.06 Exh Housing with 60A/R 1200 ONO 0401758385- Jimmy

Thanks for all the replies, after thinking a bit more abotu it I don't think it would be my BOV being too tight (don't have a stock BOV) because they are blowing off while under acceleration/boost, not when realeasing air. Welding a lip onto the pipe sounds like a good idea, and I already have a few of the good clamps, so I will get a few more where needed and see how I go. Boost atm has been either 12.5 or 16Psi

I think you might have just fixed my problem!! I have a Blitz BOV on the car, but I think it is wound up very tight. It does go off slightly when changing gears, but it ALWAYS flutters and isn't very quiet so that might be my problem.

Just went down to watch my car on the dyno, and it is having problems with the hoses blowing off. Is their anything that I can use to help them stay on better? Already going to get stronger clamps, but is there some sort of glue or some other way to make them stay on better???

Thanks for the pics, they give me something to compair mine to. I just need to put it up on the hoist and have a look see