The Tool

What I don't understand if things like filters and BOV's are illegal then why the heck allowed to be sold in the first place? Hopefully someone can enlighten me...

I'm with the Pred. I personally think 6x9's are a waste of time. Decent 6's and a sub/amp will be heaps better. Your stock wiring should do fine. I'm running good speakers from an amp using stock wiring (for part of the front at least - i reckon the effort of running new wires to the front doors is not worth it) and i have no complaints. The smell may be the actual speakers themselves, not necessarily (sorry if i can't spel ) the wiring. Most speakers generally don't draw current to the point that it will melt the wires (most car wiring can handle at leat 10amp). I could be wrong, but all the same I reckon you'll be fine.

there are two plastic 'teeth' that slot into the parcel tray on each rear corner - you will need to bend the corners down a bit to get the teeth to come out and/or lift up the plastic trim that the teeth are connected to. be careful if you don't wanna break the parcel shelf cause it is made of sh_tboard.

if your sub box is ported then it won't sound as good as a sealed enclosure in your car. at the moment i have an old pioneer 10" free-air in a sealed box (i know, i know, it's not designed for a box...) and it actually sounds a lot better than i thought it would. which way is the sub facing? try facing it into the rear corners of the boot. also make sure your boot is sealed properly.

Not wanting to boast or anything but I have one - DEH-P8450 i think is the model number. It's a good deck - everyone who gets in the car is pretty amazed by the flip down thingy and the graphics and stuff. But I mainly got it because it plays mp3's, has 3 pairs of 4Volt rca's and has the cellular mute function (which is deadset handy).

is most likely to be either poor earthing or a poor contact/connection somewhere - make sure all your terminals are secured well and have good contacts. also i hope you aren't running the headunit, stacker & amp all off the same power cable - it is best to run amps on seperate cable. is your battery in the boot? if so, try running the amp straight off these terminals. out of curiosity, what size power + earth cable are you running?

You're better off getting a second amp to run the sub, and running the speakers of the 4ch amp. Reason is you get a better, cleaner signal from a dedicated amp than from your head unit's built in amp. Also, don't bother with 7x10's if you're putting in a sub. Get a decent set of 6's instead. If money is an issue, then run the fronts and sub off the amp and the rears off the headunit. As Silver-Arrowz said, only look at RMS and not peak. To give you an idea most good headunits only put out about 20-25W RMS. Are you gonna do the install yourself? VERY important thing in car audio is wiring, particularly when you throw an amp into the equation. Make sure you run at least 8g power and earth cable to your amp from the battery. All connections and terminals need to be done well too. Could go on for ages. Feel free to PM for more advice.

oooh...how funky is the new layout!!

It's easiest to run them down the left hand side of the car just under the carpet.

Buy an MP3 head unit - much better than having a stacker.

Expect to pay a few hundred quid for one...

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Aww, crap. Didn't turn out so good after all...

It's a rectangular switch, just to the left of the steering column on the lower dash area with the symbols: __ |/ | | /| Haha! How good is my artwork!

I have the squeal problem as well, but it only happens when the pads are cold. The squeal stops when the pads heat up, and the pads and discs are fine. I'm convinced it is just brake dust and/or related to the harder compound (as Too quick mentioned).

That Asahi is pretty good shit... :uh-huh:

I have no idea why they would say that. Distributor is related to ignition so unless your car is not performing properly then I wouldn't bother. Only time you ever think about the distributor for audio purposes is interference where you simply hook up a $2 condensor (which is usually there to begin with anyway!) Just out of curiosity, what are you putitng in (don't need detailed description unless you wanna provide it).

Splits weren't standard on my car when I got it. I just had crappy stock 6's in the doors. You may be able to make wiring it easier by getting a harness and soldering these wires to the harness supplied with your deck- I think Aerpro make one for the R33. But I'm pretty sure all you have to do is put connectors on each of the wires out of the deck to match up with the loom (I had an aftermarket deck so I can't be sure about stock). The harness might juts make things a bit neater. Wiring for decks is really not that hard to do once you have a basic idea of how to crimp, cut wires and joining corrct wires together. The hardest bit is mounting the things and in most Nissans and Toyota's it is very easy!! :uh-huh:

That sorta shit really PISSES ME OFF!

Tried the ol' ECU reset but to no avail. Will be having it looked at this weekend. Wanna make sure I have climate control for a long drive to Byron for NYE!!!

As Skyline33 said, start with the gear knob, pull out your ash tray and start unscrewing any screw you see. Everything else is held by clips. Really easy to do - one of the easiest I've ever done. As for equaliser, depends on how it connects to the deck - if it is by RCA or speaker inputs, then can be done. If is a special plug (ie Kenwood exclusive) then you won't be able to - I'd say this is more likely to be the case. Splits - a couple of suggestions, under the carpet near where the kick panels are - I have a phone kit in my car and I put the control unit under the carpet about where the right passenger foot would rest. This unit is about the size of one crossover, but I'm sure you could fit another in there. You might also be able to mount them under the dash (maybe tape to the steering column). You will probably just have to have a play around to see where you can sit them whilst avoiding making any holes. Hope this helps. Maybe try contacting a car audio specialist for some ideas.

Could also just be the mast of the antenna - when you first switch the deck on, have a listen to see if you can hear the motor going or not - if you can, then i'd say the mast has been threaded (they are plastic). Might want to also try getting a multimeter to see if there is current getting to the antenna to begin with...

To me sounds like a faulty contact between some of the wires)somewhere if they come on with the brakes (possibly an earth wire). As a few others have suggested get a multimeter...

The air-con works, but only on 18'c. If I increase it to 19'c then I get hot air as if it's set at about 25'c or above.

Running another amp = more power = more current drain. So in short, yes. Depending on how good your charging system is you shouldn't need to upgrade your alternator. You might also want to consider investing in a capacitor - not essential, but will help "smooth" the current flow to the amps. Why not purchase a 4 channel to run the speakers & bridge the sub of the 2 channel? By running fronts off an amp and rears off the head unit you will probably find that the rears won't have enough volume.