The Tool

Yeh I checked that. I only get hot on 19'c and cold on 18'c when I'm just operating the fan (i.e. with it's not in Auto mode)

Blitz, what's the CCA rating on that battery?

Howdy all, My heater/climate control unit does not seem to function properly. I only get cold air at 18'c or hot air at any tempertaure above 18'c. I tried the settings with the a/c on and it made little difference (i.e. the air-con worked but still only left me with hot or cold - so settings in between). I also tried running the diags and everything appeared normal for most of the settings. When I put it to the sensor check, where the number "5" appears, I pressed the window de-fog button (bottom right next to the recirc button), and i got a reading of between 18'c and 21'c for the first setting (which I assume is the inside air temp - seemed about right), and I got -30'c for the second (no idea what this reads). Anyone got any ideas? It kinda sux only having a hot or a cold setting, because the climate control does not function properly....

If you want to maximise the performance you want the amp as close to the battery as possible running the fattest cable you can (either 8g or 4g). You also want it where it will have the air circulation for cooling.

My stock battery seems to go fine running two amps, even when the volume is way up and I have headlights on. If you have any doubts, install a capacitor (about $150-$300) for your amps. But I reckon you'll be fine. I'd only change if you're not happy with the results...

What brand/model deck is it? I know Pioneer sell an auxiliary kit that has rca inputs. it works via the p-bus system (same plug for pioneer stackers). No idea on cost, but that's the best way that i know of. The other option is to just buy a MD/CD combined head-unit. Or even better, forget the MD and get an MP3 unit. They are sooo gooood!!!

Don't know anything 'bout 180's, but CAN tell you that having battery in the boot is a BIG plus as far as wiring goes. Means you can run a shorter fatter cable (like 4G or even bigger) straight from the battery which will ensure better current flow which means the amp can work to it's full capacity. Shore beats trying to run 4 or 5 mtrs of 8G or 4G from the front, through the firewall and under the carpet to the amps. Also means that the power cable will not create interference because it will not run alongside your speaker cable. Remember with cable, particularly for the +12V to amps, the bigger - the shorter - the better, period.

I noticed EXACTLY the same thing the other day when I pulled out my rear seat. It definitely is not stereo related cause i had none in at the time!! It's only a faint whine. I thought it may be something related to the cat or exhaust because it only happened when I'd give her some juice, but I really don't know. Am interested to find out...

yeh its a time consuming thing to do. rear parcel shelf ain't too bad to do, once u know how to get the rear seats out! 3mm might be right for the front. depends on how deep ur speakers are. i'm not sure how thick u need to go for the back. i actually used 3mm for the back and glued it to the old shelf then re-carpeted it. u need a bit of flex in it so u can actually fit it back in... u can use the old shelf as a template to make the new one tho.

Same with me. I have a series 2 r33 and aerial does not move. there is a switch on the dash but the aerial stil doesn't work. Just makes a grinding sound which I think means the thing is stuffed. will know for sure when i pull it out in a week or two.

You can fit as many people in the car as you like (or rather can - 8 must've been cosy!!), as long as all the seat belts are being used. Came in as part of the national road rules. Same as being aloud to do a U-turn at traffic lights now... I have a friend who is a cop and he told me this.

I did exactly that with mine. Remember to us the thickest MDF u can (but not too thick so the trim wont fit on!!). U can use the old plastic mount as a template for cutting the new mounts.

i'll second that

Greg, Sorry mate, can't say i know too much about them. I have heard of them but that's about all i know about them. For mine if you want the best then you're looking at Pioneer (not for subs), Alpine, MTx, JL Audio and maybe JBL. Depends on which component you're talking about. I take it you're talking about speakers?

jl audio tend to underrate their products - they are pretty good stuff. the amps & subs they make are quite expensive and i am yet to hear or read a bad word about them as far as performance goes. can't vouch fo the 6x9's but by the sounds of it i reckon they'd be fine. i doubt you'll risk blowing the amplifier in your head unit unless you run it at peak volume continuously. 45 watts peak (about 22watt rms if my memory serves me correctly) is way under what most 'decent' aftermarket speakers will handle. you always need to have speakers that can handle a higher powerload than the amp is putting into them otherwise you will cook the speaker coils. bare in mind that the 'amps' in head units have nowhere near the power output or sound clarity of a dedicated amp. this is due to heat, current flow, space, cost...this list goes on. you might find tthe speakers a bit underpowered running off the head unit and they are likely distort at lower volumes than if you had them running off a dedicated amp. this is usually because of quality of the signal coming from the head unit and not because of the speakers themselves. i cold go on for pages about this stuff, but there is a heap of documentation on the net about car audio. it can get fairly involved depending on how enthusiastic you wanna be about it.

my series 2 r33 has an antenna switch (but my antenna doesn't work properly!) i split the blue remote lead from the head unit into the antenna trigger lead (or whatever u call it), and also ran another wire to the amp in the boot from this same lead that way the switch will only switch off the antenna i dunno if u have this switch but it is just a suggestion

...btw when i said 'fuel slows down', i meant the fuel molecules/particles or whatever u call 'em slow down...

I don't know for sure, but from my (limited!) understanding of high school chemistry, if the temperature drops (i.e. overnight) the fuel (in vapour form - it's not always liquid) slows down thereby reducing the pressure. Same sort of thing as tyres when they heat up - pressure rises. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong but it seems logical to me...

I think I'll be there...

I'll try to get some pics this w/e...

I have actually just done this sort of thing in my car. I basically used the existing carpet as a template to cut the mdf. I stuck 2 seperate pieces with liquid nails onto the corners/sides to act as like a fixed mount. Then I built a hinged 'lid' to allow access to the spare tyre and fixed the hinges to the corners pieces. It seems to work pretty well and once carpeted looks pretty neat. I know that the corners pieces are now fixed, but the beauty of liquid nails is that it can be broken if needed, but is otherwise pretty sturdy. I aslo used hinges with removable pins so that the lid can also be removed. With the hinged lid setup I also have access to the spare tyre. It was near impossible to get an exact match up with all the contours, but with the existing carpet you can get it pretty close with the timber, then wack carpet over the top and kinda free cut it so it matches up cleanly. I chose to use mdf because it is easier to cut than ply and doesn't splinter, which is important because there are a lot of difficult curves to cut with the jigsaw...

Go to JB Hi-fi in Church St Parramatta I too have had Pioneer decks and am very happy with them and have invested in an MP3 playing deck. It cost be $1100 but I'm glad. There is a Sony deck around for under $500 i think but I don't know what it's like. Be warned, they do cost a bit, but if you're an audiophile like myself, and would otherwise be considering a stacker, save the money you would spend on a stacker & get an MP3 playing deck - hours & hours of music on there & so easy to change!!

I'm Johnny I believe I work with DFLASH, only I'm a bean counter....zzzzzz.... I live on the northern beaches. I like sport, music & cars (obviously - err derrr...). P.S. Doctor - is that you Benny who I caught up with a month or two ago?

UID10T is definitely one of the best non-custom plates. I think the RTA made it unavailable because it is 'offensive'... Nick's "BY BY" plates are cool...

Hi all, I'm the proud owner of an R33 on the NB and a new member of the forum. Would love to make the cruise but I have plans that weekend. When's the next Terry Hills Burger King meet & cruise happening? (I went to one in Sept where a few people turned up). C U, T00L.