stilettoman

It has always amazed me that maybe 1% of women and 5% of men seem to know what a Stiletto is. It was the weapon of choice for Italian, and particularly Sicilian, assassins since the time of Machiavelli in the late 1400s. When the Italian shoe designer made the first shoe with a very thin spike heel in about 1950, someone said it looks like a stiletto, and the rest is history. When people have asked me about my email address, I always say I am a hit man in my spare time. You should have noticed that I incorporated an image of a stiletto in my logo. The name just came to me when I realized I had designed something that had a sharp point at one end. Thanks for the comments - I think my tuner just wanted me to verify the coils were all good, and hopefully he can tune out the dwell issue. We are all very proud of the fact the cam sensor works so well - we set a cup of coffee on the motor and it doesn't even make waves when it is running - pretty much like a stock RB20. We will make another video and post more photos when it is finished - the wiring is a rats nest, but I don't want to tape anything up until I am sure we are through making changes.

Some of you may recall my RB20 powered 48 Studebaker, which I described here in some detail, and my RB20 powered RX-7. Both of these cars are running and driving very well. My Stiletto three wheeler was also running well until one day I had a wiring meltdown, cause unknown, that included melting the plastic box with all the relays and fuses. This is a 1984 Kawasaki Z1300 , one of the very first motorcycle engines with electronic fuel injection, and NOTHING was tuneable or adjustable except the idle speed. We discussed some of the aftermarket fuel injection systems. But we kept coming back to the fact that we had accumulated a lot of RB20 spare parts – ECU, ignition module, cam sensor, throttle sensor, MAF and a wire harness. The Kawasaki is a straight six, twin cams, same firing order – why not make it a research project ? The Kawasaki had a crank sensor only, with a lost spark system meaning it fired the plugs every revolution. My machinist made an adapter to drive the RB20 cam sensor off the exhaust cam, and the rest was pretty straight forward, not to say it was simple. I am using a Z32 instrument cluster - figuring out how to drive the electronic speedo may be a challenge. We built a custom intake plenum, used the RB20 injectors, coil packs, throttle body and TPS from an Infiniti J30 (Nissan Leopard), stock Kawasaki fuel pump (36 psi) and a custom made fuel rail, air box and air filter setup. We sent the ECU to ConceptZ to get the Nistune board installed, and my tuner guy wasted about a hour to figure out they had installed the wrong map. Once he downloaded the correct map he had it starting, idling and running smoothly in just a few minutes. We got a Code 21 fault, and I checked the coils – they all have the same primary resistance, and I don't know what else to check. It seems to run just fine. Any suggestions what else to check? The Youtube video shows the Stiletto running and driving with the original Kawasaki system – drove it for about 5 years with very few problems. http://stilettoman.info/2014/09/the-stiletto-project/

The only overheat problems I ever had were in the 5.0 Ford powered RX-7 I built, and after trying several different solutions, I ended up with the stock RX-7 plastic fan, which seems to have excellent aerodynamic design, running without a clutch. Of course it never revved very high driving on the street with an automatic, so I don't think the fan was eating much horsepower. My RB20 powered RX-7 runs very cool with the stock Skyline radiator and clutch fan, even in 100 degree F weather. Of course I realize the 2.0 liter motor does not generate much heat in normal street driving. When we recently did the RB20 swap into the 48 Studebaker, we tried to make it fit with the clutch fan, but it was just too crowded, so we installed an electric fan - it is fairly quiet and really moves a lot of air. I think the latest designs of electrics must compare favorably with an engine driven clutch fan - they get smarter all the time, just like the guys designing the turbos. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-398/overview/

R32Pal - Don't know if you looked at my web site, but the FFP on the RX-7 required about 10 hours work, is shown in this thread in "Forced Induction" post number 24: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428716-rb20det-forward-facing-plenum/page-2?hl=%2Bstilettoman#entry6934997 The FFP we built for the Studebaker is much more interesting, required a lot more work of course, shown here in Post number 20: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/433066-skyline-drivetrain-and-suspension-in-1948-studebaker/page-1 Ben

I tried that before, but this time it worked - thanks. There is already a build thread for the Studebaker on this forum. Details of all my recent builds are shown on my website: stilettoman.info Ben

I have no idea what "FFP" is. If you have not seen it, you may want to look at my website, which gives details of the build on the RX-7 and also on the RB20 powered Studebaker. The external spring on the wastegate controller was installed on both cars, and the RX-7 now boosts to 12 - 13 psi. After some tinkering, both cars are now running really well. stilettoman.info

I originally listed my RB20 powered RX-7, which shows in my profile. I now have two RB20 powered cars, the other being a 48 Studebaker. I tried to add this by editing my profile, and I typed well within the box provided, and repeatedly got the message "data exceeds limits" or words to that effect. There seems to be a defect in your software.

I do not know if there is any functional advantage to either of the venting arrangements shown above. I modified mine for purely cosmetic reasons as I thought the original R32 engine was a cluttered mess. I put the main vent tubes on the sides of the cam covers, but above the baffle plates. The equalizer tube can be seen below the perforated cover. As for all the bright colors, I prefer something with more of a factory look. The custom made intake plenum was also done just for appearance, seems to work very well.

Some of you may have seen my RB20 powered RX-7 or my RB20 powered 48 Studebaker, shown elsewhere here. If not, you can see the build details on my website stilettoman.info in the automotive section I have been plagued with electrical / engine management gremlins in the RX-7, finally bit the bullet and bought a Wiring Specialties harness. That solved many of the problems, but it would still cut out momentarily at random times. I got the analysis software from Concept Z, and it showed that the MAF signal was going away when the engine cut out. I was told that "you cannot repair a MAF, just buy a new one". After consuming some "brain enhancer medication" (bourbon) I decided to find out what this mysterious device looks like on the inside. I started by removing the connector plug, which pulled out fairly easily. The solder connections came off very easily and I noticed that one of the connections left no trace of solder on the copper contact. My immediate reaction was that this was my problem. I cleaned everything, reassembled it and resoldered the connections. The car now runs flawlessly. I realize this may be a very rare occurrence, but just thought I should pass this on in case any of you Wizards of Oz like to spend your money on medication rather than car parts.

The Studebaker has been running very well, excellent brakes and steering, can't say much about the handling until I get some bucket seats - cornering on this very soft bench seat feels like sitting on a beach ball. The RB20 has been only going to 8-9 psi boost, so we investigated and found some boost leaks. With all that sorted I was still getting 9 psi max boost. I have read in several places that 12-13 psi is a safe limit for this ceramic turbine wheel. I hate paying money to buy something I can easily make in my shop, so I decided to jack up the boost pressure myself. It is obviously not possible to take the wastegate actuator apart and shim the spring, so I just added an external spring, with a clamp on the actuator rod which is adjustable. We set it up on the bench using a spare turbo and adjusted the spring so it opens the wastegate at about 12 psi. We installed it on the car and it goes up smoothly to 12 psi boost and is stable there. I can't measure the power increase, but it definitely has more power and I am now quite happy with the performance. This is so simple I assume others have done this ????

With the headliner in, we were able to install the windscreen and rear windows. These are all installed from the inside, and the rear glass is very tight, not an easy job. I made some terminal strips to facilitate the wiring, ran wires to the rear, lights on the left side and fuel tank on the right side. I made rubber gaskets for the headlights and tail lights, and those are now installed. All the lights work perfectly, hope that bodes well for the fuel injection wiring. The ECU and fuse panel are inside the glove box door. I spent many hours adapting the Skyline instruments into the Studebaker instrument cases. The custom made rear valance panel is installed, so we could then weld on the exhaust tips to fit the cutouts in the valance panel. More photos of all this are now shown on my web site. http://stilettoman.info/ I will be keeping that up to date, then post here when the car is running, hopefully in a few weeks. I hope to get my airplane projects and some airshow photos on the site in the next few months.

After months of body work, many coats of primer and hours of block sanding, I finally was ready and took the car to my painter friend. I have painted all my project cars, airplanes, motorcycles etc since 1958, but I never sprayed a pearl paint and I never spent so much time prepping a car for paint. This is as close as I will ever get to a show quality paint job. Installing the headliner was not much fun, now it is ready for the window and windscreen install. I have been working on the dash, built my own heater using a couple of Skyline heater boxes, some ABS plastic, and the controls from a Mazda RX-7. The Skyline pedal assemlies are installed, used the round pedal pads from the studebaker to maintain some semblance of the original look. The Skyline key switch was adapted to the dash. My fabricator, Sean , has been finishing the fuel, brake, clutch and power steering plumbing and wiring. The fuel tank is installed, and the filler connected. I painted the engine covers, power steering reservoir and few other bits, and now the engine compartment is complete.

Can someone please tell me the year of manufacture of this Skyline? It is a R34 front clip with a rb25NEO motor, currently for sale locally. Total mileage is 95,396 KILOMETERS ( 59,276 MILES)

For the past few weeks, Sean has been dividing his time between the Studebaker project and doing some upgrades on a 1968 Mustang convertible that belongs to a friend of mine. We started with the idea of just buying and installing some of the disc brake and power rack kits that are available for the early Mustangs from various sources. But as we looked at the options on line, we kept thinking that they are not cheap, and the quality is certainly no better than the Nissan parts we are using on the Studebaker. Not entirely Skyline related, but some of you might like to see what we have done with a few used Nissan parts - this will be a truly unique Mustang: www.pro-touring.com/threads/111428-68-Mustang-Convertible-Some-Unique-Upgrades Sean has finished the turbo/intercooler plumbing and has been modifying the bumpers for the Studebaker. A lower valance panel was fabricated for the rear end and the bumper was moved in tighter to the body. Both bumpers were reshaped somewhat, and studs were welded inside for the mounting brackets, so there will be no bolt heads visible. The Infiniti J30 (Nissan Leopard) fuel tank is installed in the trunk, below the rear package shelf. Because of the inevitable effects of gravity, there was only one choice for the fuel filler location. I used a filler cap from a motorcycle. We also converted the hood to a front hinge arrangement to provide better access to the engine compartment. (Don't be confused by what you have been told by those guys who live on that big island off the coast of France - a boot is a type of shoe invented by that famous shoe salesman Wellington, and a bonnet is a type of hat that some ladies wear to keep the sun off.)

"An RB25 would have been better for cruising." Well, when I am cruising down the highway on a trip, I would rather have the fuel mileage. Of course there are occasions when another 75 horsepower would be advantageous. I have often said that stoplight drag racing is childish and immature --- but if a guy pulls up next to you in a BMW, well you just do what you have to do . My local JDM source just got in stock an R34 front clip, with an RB25DET NEO and a 5 speed. The price is $4000, and I was very tempted. But there are two things putting me off: 1. The R32 front clip I am using cost me $2000 and has 57,000 km on it. 2. The NEO motors are rare here - none of the local tuners has ever worked on one to my knowledge, much less done a swap. I am sticking with Plan A. We have been so focused on getting this thing put together that we failed to notice something unexpected - there seems to be no adjustments to the caster and camber of the R32 front suspension. What are we missing? Do you just have to buy aftermarket parts? With our fabrication skills, we can easily make the tension rods adjustable, but the funky angle of the upper control arm complicates the camber issue.