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pkmike

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Posts posted by pkmike

  1. I only got 1 session in before my gearbox started locking me out of 5th and 6th!!! The only option was to short-shift 4th so much it was like I was skipping it, but then I could at least keep it in 5th for the entirety of the straight. This hurt my top speed badly...

    I didn't let that deter me though. I had an awesome time and from my first session ever on Sandown at 1:33.01, despite the gearbox problem, I managed to get back within 0.4s so I'm pleased with my progression on the track, just bummed the times don't provide the evidence!

    Great to meet some of you. Looking forward to the next one already.

  2. ...and yet another 3 weeks just drift by making it close to 3 MONTHS since the event...

    ...and yet another 4 weeks just drift by making it close to 4 MONTHS since the event...

    Thanks for confirming the results exist, and that the data is now in a spreadsheet somewhere, but can we please do as this thread promised and wrap-up the event properly?

  3. Units like this need to mounted on the windscreen - not a big deal these days with every other vehicle having mobile phone and/or GPS units mounted there aswell. There are more advanced ones that use sensors on the dash/back window/front grill, but the unit hides away.

    You can modify a radar detector to become a detector-detector - this is what the police use and it provides a signal direction too. Most decent units have a shut-off that once it acknowledges that it is being tracked, it will stop detecting to avoid being identified. This obviously only works if there are other cars around. If you're by yourself, it won't matter.

    It will pick up mobile radar no problem as they tend to operate continuously and as someone said, the signals bounce off anything/everything. Speed cameras are a strange one - some operate continuously (easy detection), some operate sporadically so you might think its a false signal and ignore the alarm (shopfront motion sensors for automatic sliding doors can set some models off). Lasers are difficult - they hardly reflect off other vehicles, and if it gets pointed at you, you'll be warned as your speed is recorded.

    This is all just general knowledge to answer some questions, not specific to the model being sold here.

  4. 1996 Nissan R33 RB25DET Manual SERIES II

    Accident free, never been defected, neat and smooth.

    Approx. 103xxx kms

    Engine:

    Standard turbo running standard boost

    R34 GTR front mount intercooler

    CES Racing 3" front/dump pipe (splits flow until underneath the car)

    4" Magic Cat

    4" Catback to 5" tipped cannon (I believe HKS Super Dragger - perfect note)

    Wheels/Brakes/Suspension:

    Tein HA all round

    Whiteline camber bushes up front (rears included but not installed)

    18x8.5+30 18x9.5+35 Work Meister S1 rims - excellent condition

    Brand new 235/40's all-round (I think they're Kumho Ecsta - it's late)

    Exterior:

    Standard series II

    Clear side indicators

    Interior:

    Brant Remote Central Locking/Alarm with pin pad and new remotes (driver motor for central locking needs replacement)

    Alpine Head Unit

    Alpine 6.5" Component Speakers in front

    Alpine 350W RMS Amp

    12" Alpine Subwoofer in enclosure

    Other Parts Available but not fitted:

    Sard Racing BOV

    Stock Suspension

    Stock wheels with roadworthy tyres

    Thule roofracks!!!!

    Left hand foglight assembly (an Einstein on ebay sent me the wrong side)

    PRICE: $9500

    Good clean car. I've owned this car for 2.5 years now and since moving into the city, my fiance and I only ever use 1 car, hers. So this just isn't getting used often enough to justify the rego payments. I bought it with ~85K kms on it and it's now ~103K kms. I had the timing belt, all fluids, filters, rocker cover gasket, and exhaust gasket replaced this time last year but otherwise self-service it every 5000kms. It has one of the best exhaust notes I've ever heard, security is top-notch, handles great and looks tough. On the downside, it has begun developing a misfire in the top end which I know Splitfires will fix (confirmed by mechanic). I never give it heaps so it hasn't bothered me (<5k rpm). Driver's side lumbar support is torn as they all are. Similarly, the driver's side power window switch is cracked which appears to be a standard thing. Rear-left shock knocks in the top spherical joint on certain lightly bumpy roads. Otherwise, it's in great shape with no accident history and never been defected.

    8 months rego left. Car is located in Melbourne.

    For any questions or enquiries feel free to contact me on 0417 592173. Happy to provide additional pictures upon request.

    Cheers

    Mike

    post-11563-1289038772_thumb.jpgpost-11563-1289038788_thumb.jpg

  5. Have you tried replacing the 50c resistor inside it? Wreckers tried charging me $250 for a replacement when, I've since discovered most often, that resistor has just burnt out.

    There is DIY on how to do it in here somewhere...

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