SafT

The single manifold i have is a Trust divided entry, single 48mm gate.

I have both options sitting here, engine is still 2.6l (built bottom end). Has 280 11.35 cams, and ported head. Which would you choose, and why? Thanks EDIT: the 2540's are used, but in reasonable condition, gt4088r is new

At which point did you switch to single throttle body?

I also know that an average ecu wont cost you horsepower, it just costs you driveability. We built what was at the time nz's fastest stagea (not sure if it still is). It ran a reytec. It made pretty decent horsepower, but the ecu meant the driveability was shocking, it would randomly stumble on shifts and other annoying crap. The tuner was very experienced, but it really tested his patience. With a better ecu, and more track time we felt there was an extra .4 to be found in the 1/4 mile without any more horsepower.

Not doubting he has a fast car, but how do his power levels compare to Heat Treatments?

You always want a wide open throttle switch (as a safety mechanism)

I disagree with almost everything you just posted. You started out ok with your third point, but then went off track again.

I never double checked the boost at low rpms. checked it around 3500 and it made 8psi no problems there Next time he comes around i guess i will have to do get the timing light and compression tester out. And for the suggestion from some about raising boost to 10psi - I'm hesitant to wind more boost into it while it doesn't feel like its responding well to what it has. How do you rate the GCG turbo Gary?

Having driven a few RB25DE 4wd stageas - this doesnt appear to go much better than one below 5500 rpm. Even running roughly the same speed up a long hill. (same speed as a diesel st-x navara) Will check ignition timing next i guess it just has a basic paper filter at the moment (new)

gutted the cat after i posted that last night - no change the symptoms are the opposite to what i would expect for a restriction

A friend of mine has a S1 RS4. Basically the problem is as i have attempted to describe it in the title. I have: Wired the boost solenoid to earth (holds ~8psi) Changed the plugs (to bcpr6es from memory) - all the old plugs looked pretty consistant in colour Cleaned the AFM Unrelated but i have changed the O2 sensor as well. This issue has existed since he bought the car - im sure its not supposed to be like that. Knock sensor issue? Any other suggestions?

Im having some troubles with greenline at the moment I ordered a Trust Type C 1.1 Bar A Type R 1.1 Bar turned up. Initially i sent an email saying that the wastegate said type R on the box, they said that the Type C's ship in a type R box. I then found a picture of what the type C should look like, emailed them again saying it didnt look like the type C, no reply. Finally took photos of the box, and wastegate and emailed them to them. No reply its been two weeks since i sent the photos Kinda frustrating since the type c is more expensive than the type r, and he isnt even interested in getting back to me. Is this is how greenline get when they make a mistake?

one pain in the ass thing with os gearsets they have a fairly tall first gear :

thats because the manual/260 dash doesnt have all the same light locations the plugs are the same tho we had to switch some around doing our conversion (put series 2 rs4s dash in 25gfour)

it appears there are series 1 shape NEO's i have seen a couple now