Jazzadub

This is in reply to the original post in 2009. I don't have a view on the GDI systems, but I disagree that the purpose of EGR and PCV systems are to re-burn unburnt fuel. The purpose of an EGR system is to effectively reduce the displacement of the engine under certain operating conditions. It does this by replacing some of the gas with gas that doesn't have oxygen in it (ie exhaust gas). An analogy would be running your car at the top of Mount Everest - less oxygen, less fuel, less power, but better economy when cruising. Thus EGR system is for economy, but not primarily by reburning unburnt fuel. My understanding, of PCV valves, which might be wrong, is that the vacuum in the intake manifold helps draw out the small amounts of blow by that occur in an N/A engine. (Doesn't work with boost pressure). This would help prevent water and fuel vapour contaminating the oil. By putting a catch can in place is a good fix if it is correctly hooked up. It also stops these vapours venting out to atmosphere. Therefore, PCV (valve cover breather) systems are for engine longevity, and reducing blow by "emissions". I can't see how it is a method of increasing fuel economy. Just my 2c on those points!

You could run 0-30W? It would be at the right viscosity at the track, and wouldn't be too thick at 20C to be a problem but definitely not ideal. I think you have already tested that the thermostatic valve isn't working, otherwise your oil temperatures should sit at around the opening temperature when idling, just like how a coolant thermostat affects the water temperature. It may be possible that the lines are not connected properly, ie the cooler is not actually connected to the thermostat ports on the sandwich block?

R32 cylinder head, R33 bottom end Reconditioned standard pistons, rods, crank and head Standard GT-R intake, exhaust manifold, and outlet pipes Aftermarket front pipe Twin Garrett GT2860R-9 (GT-SS) Split compressor merge pipe mod GT-R intercooler 2x Bosch 044 pressure pumps Modified twin entry fuel rail Injector Dynamics ID1000 injectors Link G4 ECU Ethanol Flex Fuel sensor Run was done on E85, 4WD was on, boost around 18-19psi, 4th gear AFR rock steady at 7.8:1 when converted to E85 AFR 320awkw peak Over 300kw from 5500rpm Over 1000nm at the wheels from about 3700rpm all the way to 6500rpm

Nearly breathing again + dyno graph! Nismo clutch arrived on my birthday which was a great present! Now to arrange to get it installed! This thing is huuuuge! Also, dyno graph from an E85 run in 4th gear showing all the response!

I hope this isn't a trade secret, but RIPS solution, on my car anyway, is as simple as this: Two lines from valve cover breathers to top of vented catch can. Two lines from catch can to sump, above oil level. One line is from the bottom of the can, and one is slightly higher (same as KiwiRS4T) 1.3mm restrictor (IIRC), note I have an RB26 and Tomei oil pump. No head drains or any crap like that. I don't think the oil stick tube will be big enough to act as a good breather, but I might be wrong. Will report back if I have any issues with it, but I think that's unlikely!

I don't know much about Power FC and whether it can do injector trims per cylinder, but if you want some correction tables as a starting point let me know, and I will pull them out of my Link map. Cheers,

If you are using an RB26 manifold and no individual injector trim then cylinders 5 and 6 WILL run lean, and it will only get worse as load increases! Was any injector trim set up in the Power FC? Remember if you don't have individual EGT sensors, then you are tuning based on the average of all 6 cylinders, so it is still possible to get a good AFR reading when cylinders 5 and 6 are running lean. It just means that cylinders 1-4 are running richer than they need to be, and cylinders 5 and 6 aren't rich enough, which averages out to look OK. In my tune the tuner phased in 3% more fuel to cylinder 5 and up to 6% more fuel to cylinder 6, as revs and MGP increases! So if you didn't have injector trim on these cylinders, then that would explain why 6 was the first cylinder to pop!

So rev to launch RPMs, handbrake up, clutch out a touch, then drop handbrake while letting clutch out and go? Or a different method?

Competition spec of course! Thought I'd overkill the specs in that department considering I am considering tracking it and doing a few launches! Do you have any recommendations for launching with the clutch? Will preloading the drivetrain for a second or two prematurely wear out the clutch or should it handle that fine? Or is the power level too low to risk breaking anything (not planning on launching at a prepped drag strip anytime soon) Also, any idea on the fluid amounts? Will 6L be enough for gearbox and rear diff?

Woops! Car has been going great and I have been tinkering with it bit by bit over the week I've had it back! However, I had a brain fart and decided to do a 7000rpm launch with the single plate 5 puck clutch! Despite pulling very very hard, there were some bad noises as the clutch decided to munch itself! Bad vibrations, and a lack of ability to change gear while the car was running ensued! Fortunately I managed to limp it home, so maximum embarrassment was avoided! The next day I tried to start it and it wouldn't turn over! I was shitting my pants and spent a few hours thinking that the battery was rooted! Eventually I decided to turn it backwards a few degrees, at which point something fell loose, and it fired straight up! Not going to push my luck any more though! Anyway, thanks to rave testimonies from Piggaz and others, I have decided only the best will do the job, so the following is on order! Managed to get one for NZ$2410 shipped, all duties included, which I didn't think was too bad! While the box is coming out, I figure it's worth giving the box and rear diff a treat, so I will also buy some Redline Heavy Shockproof Gear Oil, which should give everything a new lease of life! Would 6 quarts (5.68L) be enough? From what I found the gearbox is 4.1L and the rear diff is 1.6L, so it would only be about 20mL short, which shouldn't matter. Hopefully I will be able to take it to a track day soon after this is sorted!

Just wish E85 was easier to come by in Wellington NZ!!!

Sister just put up another photo - looks so good! Thank god for grey paint always looking OK, when in fact it's really quite shit!

It's back! The drive back was great and I'm so pleased to have it back after such a long time! It's been well worth the wait! Power delivery is incredible, the turbos start spooling up at around 2500 and its on at 3200! It measured 260awkw with 98 on a 4wd dyno, at about 1.1-1.2bar, but it feels faster than it did before, when the power was supposedly 330wkw! I can't wait to put some E85 in it and raise the power by 60kw to the 320awkw it put down! I think that is perhaps at 1.4 bar. The injectors were cleaned and flowed, and hopefully the inline 10 micron filters keep any crap out of the injectors. Since I drove it back on Saturday I haven't been able to just leave it alone! So I have changed the front brakes to slotted DBA T3 rotors and Pagid RS-29 yellow pads, sorted the catch can mount properly, adjusted the scales on the wideband and oil pressure/temperature gauges, configured the ECU to throw a CEL under 60C and over 100C ECT, ordered a standard 76C thermostat to replace the low temperature one, and other stuff I'm sure I've forgotten. The brakes made a huge difference, as the feel was a bit "dead" before, where as it is very sharp now. I know the 280mm rotors are going to overheat at the track, but I figured I'd at least do the best with what I have for now! Tomorrow Julian from Obsessive Security (Wellington based) is going to add GPS/SMS functionality to the alarm, fix the drivers door lock, rewire the head unit (which is playing up), and give the alarm system a general looking over. I am also considering a steering wheel, gear stick, or brake pedal lock - any opinions on which is best? I already have a kill switch installed and the alarm is a good brand with an inbuilt turbo-timer. (I think there is only one brand which offers this). Some pictures! I took this picture because it looks like it's broken down! - It hasn't! Damn - looks good! My sister took this one and did some 'shopping! Thanks for reading!

AWESOME Car passed it's warrant, and it now has rego. Picking up the car tomorrow! Can't wait to see all the work that's been done, in the flesh!

I wish I saw this earlier! Let's just say transplanting the heart of the GT-R into the body of the sedan has unleashed the wrath of the Skyline gods! What problems have you had with your sedan? Anyway, time for a well needed update! The Bad The valve issue was sorted, and I also got better condition second hand valve springs with better tension! However, when it came time to tuning, what do you know, the dyno control computer broke! That was a couple of weeks of nothing happening - bad timing or what! Once that was sorted, and the car was happily running on 6 cylinders, you'd think it would be smooth sailing to completion! But no... The tuner was unable to get a stable ethanol reading because of air bubbles being introduced between the FPR and the T-join which connects to the ethanol sensor. We're still not sure why or where the bubbles were introduced, but they are being introduced after the rail, so hopefully it's no cause for concern. To fix the problem, we simply turned the T-join around 180 degrees, so that the feed to the ethanol sensor pointed downward, instead of upwards, causing all the bubbles to go back to the surge tank. Thanks gravity! You'd think that would be the last problem, but since then there has been one more problem (touch wood!) Too much fuel trim was required in the ethanol correction map to get a nice AFR. Fuel pressure was stable, so the injectors were pulled out. The mesh inside them was clogged up with a tar-like substance! My suspicion is that the E85 flushed out everything in the tank that petrol hadn't, and it went straight through the low and high pressure-side filters and accumulated in the injectors. What we are doing is replacing the two filters immediately before the fuel rail with 10 micron cleanable ones. I understand that this will just move where the crap is accumulating, but I am hoping that the bulk of the crap has already flushed through, and that it will subside over time. Anyway, at least the filter elements will be cleanable, so a bit of brake cleaner should sort them out every few months, if need be. (If anyone has any experience on E85 clogging shit up please let me know - I know about the long term effects due to the low concentration of PIB, but I think this is different because of how quickly it accumulated) Fingers crossed that is all the issues sorted! The tuner has told me that he will do his best to get it finished this week - I sure hope he does! The bought Even though I don't have the car, it's still tempting to buy things! So in preparation for a track day, soon after I get it back, I have purchased the following: 1L AP Racing PRF660 fluid (should be similar to Motul RBF660) 2x DBA T3 slotted 280mm front rotors (I had thought the brakes were like non-Brembo GT-R ones, but they are smaller - hopefully they do a reasonable job!) 2x DBA T2 slotted 292mm rear rotors (hopefully no brake bias issues!) 2x Pagid RS-29 (Yellow) front pads (these are the endurance compound they use in Le Mans etc.) 2x Ferodo DS rear pads GT-R gauge cluster with 260kmh Nismo speedo Also got an Infrared thermometer which reads up to 900C (should be good for checking tyres, brakes and you can't have too many gadgets!) Thanks for reading, and hopefully I will have the car back soon, so I can put more updates on!

Engine - 5L of semi-synthetic 10W-40 will be fine Gearbox - any good 75w-90 gearbox oil that says its good for synchros will do Diffs - I think the front is 1L and the rear is 1.5 to 2L? Any good gearbox oil will do, unless its LSD in which case you need something suitable for the LSD type Transfer case - any ATF will do the trick, not sure on quantity ATTESA - as far as I know it just needs to be incompressible and provide a bit of lubrication so any kind of P/S fluid or ATF should be fine.

If you're basing water temperature on the stock gauge, by the time it starts to rise, it's already too hot! At least I have heard this is true on R32-34 gauges.

15W-50 will be fine. Just monitor your oil temperatures and if you're creeping around 120C maybe look into getting an oil cooler.

I believe you should block off the heat exchanger hoses not loop them. You could ask Rob all these questions he would be able to give you a good answer.

Bad luck in the intake tract Heard back from Rob today - The head came off, and it looks like there was foreign material stuck between an intake valve in #1 and the seat Unfortunately that means it's unlikely to be the head reconditioners fault. The intake valve guides were cracked before the head was repaired, so maybe a part of one of them, or something else was stuck in the intake tract. It's a big bummer for all involved and nothing like this has happened at RIPS before, but that said the whole car has had a lot of problems, so I'm not too surprised that something else has happened! Anyway, I'm trying to keep my spirits up, and hopefully it will be ready in the next couple of weeks! That's not the first time I've said that though! Good things come to those who wait!

If you have a GT-R don't ruin it by doing that please! Sell it before it's too late!

My R32 with RB26DETT swap was putting out 330AWKW with Garrett GT2860R-9s, 740cc injectors, in tank Walboro fuel pump, and a Link G4 ECU, pretty much everything else was standard power wise. N1 oil pump shat itself so am currently rebuilding with what I would consider the minimum required for a safe road/track build (so you can probably ignore the fuel surge tank for example). Link is in signature. I am also getting a flex fuel tune so am hoping for ~380WKW on 85% ethanol and around the same as before on 0% ethanol - 330WKW.

My preference is function over form, without a doubt. I think a mostly original looking car, that is reasonably well maintained (but not "show spec") with power and handling to run with the best, has a lot more soul than a show spec car that isn't driven like it's meant to be, or a mint original car that's just kept garaged all the time. I guess what I mean is I am one that believes cars are meant to be driven. The exterior doesn't mean much in that regard, so it's all about how it feels to drive, and how it performs. If you have a car that's so valuable you don't want to drive it (show spec car or rare mint car), then it's become an investment item, and has lost the purpose of being a car. Nothing against people that have mint condition cars, I appreciate them just like anyone else. It's just personally I would have a hard time not driving something how it was meant to be driven. Full kudos to people who fully restore cars to a mint condition and then drive them how they were meant to be driven!

How much inc shipping to Wellington, NZ?