Jazzadub

Have you seen this brochure? http://www.downloads.gtr.org.uk/Brochures/R32GTR&GTS4.pdf If you could track down a real one it would be a good addition to put in the glovebox!

Looks epic, so envious!

A better balancer should help prolong the life of the oil pump, even under normal driving conditions, so surely that's a good enough reason in itself to use the best balancer you can get?

Good point - but ignoring the belt issue, are they AS good at harmonic dampening as the Metal Jacket? If the Metal Jacket is even slightly better then is it not a worthwhile precaution, especially on an all out build? Again, assuming that the belt issue was not a factor.

Yes, but a standard balancer isn't going to provide the same harmonic damping protection to the engine as a metal jacket, especially at higher horsepower levels that what the original damper was designed for.

There is also another MJ revision 306202X2 which I'd say is version 2 of yours, which could save you having to go to an underdriven pulley? Does the P/S pulley look different on this one compared to yours? Could be a better option than an ugly extra pulley?

Yea that's unfortunate. You can also get a pulley kit like below which could solve the problem - this is a picture from Ross website. But yes, I would talk to Ross to see what they recommend.

That sucks! Is it the Ross Metal Jacket Race, or the regular Metal Jacket? I know that there is a new revision that only comes with under driven pulleys to avoid this problem. Maybe you have the old revision?

Yea I thought that would have made it obvious it was a joke - apparently not! I agree, looks like with a roll and a slight stretch they would fit a treat. Maybe 205/40/18 or 205/45/18 would give some clearance?

Is there a space between the 0 and 726? ie) E0 724? I would believe 0 is the offset, but not 36. If you can measure the offset or estimate, as outlined above, that would be good. You should be able to visually tell if the mounting face is in the middle of the barrel or closer to one side. You need a wheel where the mounting face is closer to the outside of the wheel. Wheel unspacers are on the shelf next to fledel valves and blinker fluid

Hey are you certain they are ET36 offset? I would double check the back of the wheel as they appear to have a much lower offset than that. Looks closer to an ET0 offset, especially as the width is only 8".

Yes in hindsight that should have been done. So what is the line for?

That depends entirely on the pump setup, for example the stock regulator will not be able to control the pressure if you have 2x 044s behind it. For the HKS pump on the other hand, yes it would likely flow enough just fine.

If you are ever planning to go to a larger fuel pump then it is one thing you won't need to upgrade. What is the max power rating of the HKS pump?

double post

Also, I think high boost / low boost is misleading terminology to use for a fuel pressure regulator. Remember the regulator is controlling the return from the rail, not the feed. So, a regulator needs to be sized so it is large enough to return fuel from your fuel system at idle. A larger fuel pump requires more fuel to be returned. On boost, the regulator is returning less fuel, as more is going out the injectors. Therefore, it follows that higher boost means less fuel to be returned. In summary a fuel pressure regulator is not sized based on boost or power output, it is based on fuel flow rate at idle, which is when it will have to return 95% of the fuel flow back to the tank.

You should be OK. It will try and maintain pressure at X+manifold pressure, so a larger valve will need to be slightly more closed than a smaller valve at the same pressure. If you are really worried borrow a fuel pressure sensor and hook it up to the regular before starting the car. You will quickly see if it is holding the correct pressure at idle - which is when the regulator is doing the most work. Hope that makes sense!

Was just sent this by engine builder after topped up with coolant. Out of curiousity, can anyone identify which coolant line this is? I think the picture is taken from underneath the car near the starter motor.

There is a screen on the oil pickup, but maybe you could flush some oil through the catch can to see if anything loose comes out? If it was built correctly there should be little risk of something coming out. If you are really nervous then remember a primary purpose of the line to the sump (above oil level) is to equalise the crankcase pressure, so oil can more freely drain from the head. Therefore, if you are happy with emptying the tank every so often, you could just run the line to the top of the catch can. This would equalise the crankcase pressure with no risk of anything draining back into the sump. Hope that makes sense!

I would have thought the engine builder would prefer to do the balancing themselves - I'm sure Rob would if you sent everything to him. What do you mean by everyone has had something bad to say - about what?

Which bearings have you bought? Generally the assembler would choose appropriate bearings based on the the state of the crank and block. Obviously rings can be gapped to suit if you already have those. Now this may not be an option for you, but If it was me I would seriously consider shipping the parts to RIPS to get them balanced and everything bolted together. It will be a longer wait, but at least you know it is done right.

Cool that makes sense. So to downshift without the clutch you would be braking into the corner, jab and hold the throttle with your heel and then swiftly put it into the next gear? I understand the difference between how they work, just wondering what driving styles work and don't work. I believe you can drive a dog box like a synchro box, ie) clutched shifts etc. but you must be affirmative with the gear changes. (See PPG how to drive a dogbox video) However, you obviously can't drive a synchro box like a dog box, as the synchros won't let the shifter slam between gears without being rev matched. I still disagree with your statement that more power = more speed unless you have some technical description. Everything is meshed in a manual box, so assuming there is no slippage the crankshaft speed is locked to the wheel speed. Wheel rotations per minute is always going to be equal to something like = RPM x clutch slippage factor / gear ratio / final drive ratio There is no way I can see that more power can produce a higher wheel rotational speed at a given RPM. Additionally, you are not using any more power to maintain 10k/1000rpm now than you did before, the amount of power used would be exactly the same, but the throttle position might be different to maintain the same speed.

Good job on fixing that yourself! I'm now really glad I asked my engine builder to put in a wideband sensor, even though I hope I don't have any problems with the MAP/Link combination!

Well done mate! You should take it to a Nissan dealership and show them that it's cleaner than anything they've had through their showroom! Only thing I would personally change is the wheels, but that said, they are not bad, and do definitely give it a unique look, so good in that regard!

Can you downshift easily with no clutch while braking or do you have to use the clutch? I suppose the latter because the box would be loaded up under braking? Also, how does power level affect RPM/speed ratio in any way? - Unless of course your clutch is slipping!