Pure_Sincerity

For sale, rb25det neo vipec ecu. Comes with tuning cable and expansion harness, in a case ready to go. $1200 Located forestlake, Queensland. Cheers, Aaron 0433243453

Brand spanking new never fitted carbing full ALUMINIUM strut brace with built in BMC stopper. Looks like sex! Looks the same as in this but for 33 and 34. http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/169097-carbing-front-strut-bar-bcs-bnr32.html These are roughly $520 landed in australia. Asking $400 or swaps for other bracing gear gear or neo parts for 34 GTT. This is made for 33 and 34 GTR but will fit 33 GTST and GTT if you have a forward facing plenum. Can't upload pics from my phone but happy to send via text 0433243453. Location Brisbane QLD. Will post if buyer books a courier

Lol my bad, either way it doesn't make a difference to the plan.

Yes, neo ecus can be nistuned straight up and will do everything I need it to do. Also, the idea of the 80mm throttle was not for the size as I'll only be running 76mm piping but just to remove the cold start and butterfly etc that's associated with it.

^ nope got a mate. Also, had another look, iac Valve is only 2 wires, so I'll keep that too.

So I've gathered items for a rb25de +T build. Before I get the whole "why not just do a straight conversion ?" I'll just tell you now you can't do it this cheap!! So far I've acquired a full rb25de neo with 165-170 psi across all 6 and only 120xxx kms on it for $100. A full rb25det neo intake manifold with injectors and rail etc for $200. Already got braided turbo lines and a neo factory turbo manifold also. Will be running a factory op6 turbo and cosmetic 1.3mm head gasket. Oil cooler and relocation kit. Premium pulp and either 25det ecu, IMPUL, nistune or megasquirt and FMIC Since I don't want to re loom, I've decided to eliminate cold start which I'm not fussed as I've never owned a car where cold start even worked before I got my current r34 lol. So I'm going to buy and bolt up an aftermarket 76-80mm throttle body on the standard intake and re wire the DET TPS to the DE loom. Shouldn't be difficult as both have 6 wires. I'll just need a Pinout diagrams. Also will need to rewire the IAC valve or delete it though nistune is an optional thought. And re routing water lines may be a bitch. As for the head, the na neo has smaller intake ports then DET, so decided to get them tapered out and polished to DET neo size to run the gasket and manifold smoothly. Also at the same time, I'm getting the exhaust valve ports die grinded to remove castings to run the bigger DET neo cam or buy tomei drop ins as shimming is the same between both engines. Anyone done this before that can shed some insight ? Thoughts ? Criticism ?

Still got these ? Text me on 0433243453

Not much. Picked up a GREDDY FV BOV, permaseal gaskets, factory turbo manifold, twin entry dump and boost tee for $180 and I already had speedflow braided oil feed and return lines. Looking at $400 for a return flow cooler with piping, $1k for a nistune install and tune then I'm looking for an op6 turbo or something similar.

I mean benefits over running the factor internal gate ?

Any benefits of running a plumbed back external gate ? Spool times etc ?

Rb20 oil feed lines bolt straight on ? I imagine they would ?

And they already have upgrades steel wheels don't they ? For the OP6. Oil lines the same ? Between 20 and 25 ?

I'm about to boost my n/a 34. Intercooler etc is sorted and fab work. Q1. Do rb25 turbos and rb20 turbos use the same oil lines ? Because I have a set of speedflow braided oil feed and return lines an I want to know if they will bolt straight into rb25 turbos. Q2. How would an rb20/25 turbo go if I get it rebuilt with a billet wheel and high flowed with a kinugawa adj actuator ? Q3. Cost vs cost, which is better ? ^ that or going straight out and buying a kinugawa TD06 20G ? The plan is to only run around 10psi as the n/a motors have higher compression values then the 25det neos. To pair with this, I'm just going to run the factory low mount manifold with a 2.5" twin entry dump, greddy type FV BOV and drift boost tee. What's my best option ? Cheers guys. Kinugawa TD06 or rebuilt rb20 or 25 turbo with billet wheel and kinugawa actuator ?

From memory, last time I looked, there is about 6-10 bare wires under there coming from the loom. Could I simply turn the ignition on and find 2 wires putting out the 5v signal and connect them ? Or will no signal be sent through due to it not being hooked up to the speedo ?

The car is non turbo with a DET neo manual box, still running the factory n/a auto ecu. And I don't know how the diff is giving me a half speedo reading. I don't know anything about the auto setup as it was converted before I got the car. So I'm wandering, what's the Pinout for the auto loom speed signal and can it be wired to the manual box speedo ?

ARB dropped, then test driven. Knocking is still there. So swaybar is out of the question. Perhaps it actually is these coilovers ? They are not bottoming out at all. But I can feel the knock coming through the floor.

Exactly as it's put. It reads half. When I'm doing 60 it's reading at 30 etc.

Okay, this wasn't the issue. I've listens more and more into depth and the knocking isn't there when both sides of the car is under suspension travel, eg going over a speed bump head on. But then it knocks and bounces dramatically if you take the speed bump on an angle, eg 1 wheel at a time.

I didn't do the manual conversion on this car. But the sensor in the diff at the back on the cog for shaft, if I unplug that, my ABS light comes on an my speedo goes dead. Plug it back in and my ABS works again and my speedo reads half ? As for the speedo sensor in the box, it's not wired in, it's just 2 bare green wires hanging down.

Bump.

Car is an r34 4 door GT. Was factory auto n/a now converted to manual using an rb25det neo box and running a turbo viscous LSD and not the factory open centre with sensor on the side. Everything is sweet and it's been my daily for the last 4 months. However my speedo is only reading half as it's not connected at the speedo sensor on the box. The speedo sensor just has 2 light green wires coming from it that has been cut and it just dangling. How do I go about hooking this up ? Anyone have a Pinout for this speedo sensor ? The car is still running the n/a engine and box loom so there is a lot of cut wires under there by the box. Car is also still running the auto ecu. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

I'd say its because my old coils were base adj and I had them threaded right down making the length from top to bottom taller then my current ones which have me more clearance.

Between the 26mm 4pt adjustable swaybar and the hardrace adj control arms, I have less then a finger width clearance. So I would imagine when hitting bumps the control arm raises and is hitting my swaybar ? After I looked at that, I tested it and tightened up my damper abit more and the knocking is there less and less. How would I got about this ?

Knock does go from side to side, and it will pay to check the bolt sizes also for the crash tubes where the LCA bolts to the car and where the caster arm joins to the chassis also.