Pure_Sincerity

Cheers fellas. Swaybar bushes are fine, links are old and tight as f**k on the adjustable sway. I may take it to the next "softest" setting to reduce the tension onto the swaybar. It's abit hard seeing as it didn't do it before, or it just wasn't noticeable with the softer coilovers. The new coils are pillowball where as the old ones were bush resulting in a softer more enjoyable ride. As for the tension rod, I do not have one of those tension rods that sit behind the swaybar, I will be purchasing one soon tho. I'm going to look into the links first.

That was the first thing I had done.

Diagnosing front end suspension knock. R34 GT sedan. Since I put new coilovers in the front, I have been getting a knock when going over small bumps in the road, going up driveways etc. I can feel it coming through the floor In the car when I am driving and the front end gets "bouncy" at the same time. The coils are not bottoming out and the damper and rebound is generally fine. But the bouncy ness and knocking comes and goes and is really annoying. I can hit big bumps etc and it's perfectly fine and comfortable in a coilover friendly point of view. These coils are far stiffer then the greddy type s coils I originally had, and to match I'm still using hard race adj control arms and tie rod ends with a 26mm 4 point adj swaybar as I was with the old coils. The swaybar is set on the second stiffest setting and the link is so tight that I don't see a way possible It can be set to the next setting point. Could all this combind be an issue? Being such stiff coils now that it's upsetting the link ? On the other hand, the coils were a little iffy to be put in. They are non base adj HKS. When installing, if I put the coilover on the bottom mounting point it then would not line up with the 2 holes in the chassis up top, then of I mounted the coil in the 2 chassis holes, then it would not line up on the bottom. In the end, I had to put it 1/4 on bottom mounting bolt, then put top 2 bolts through the chassis and tap the bottom of the coilover with a rubber mallet to get it over the bottom mounting bolt. They are labeled L AND R And I have out the R on the drivers side and L on passenger so they are not on the wrong sides. Could it be a possibility that the control arms are set wrong making installation hard ? Before was easy as the greddy coils were base adjustable and could be rotated down low to match the mounting point. Where now I can't. Should I remove the LCA from the hub, and see if the coils line up perfectly ? Then if they do, adjust the LCAS to match the hub location ?

Got a hood ?

Nope. I've decided that ill only Change centers if the new diff is helical or has higher gears. Otherwise ill just pull the shims out of my current over shimmed diff.. My mate has rebuilt a lot of diffs, ill be getting his help.

I have both diffs in my garage, if I have to put the centre from 1 into another I will. What's the estimated time ?

So I've been getting f**ked around with finding a new diff for my 4 door R34 GT. R34 GT has single sensor with twin pin plug. R34 GTT has twin sensor with 4 pin plug. Shafts etc are the same, it will bolt in, but how would I go about the extra sensor and plug/wiring etc ? Need info ASAP!!

How did that setup go ? Because that's what I'm looking Into. ATM the front GTR rotors with 32 4 pots its pretty good. I just picked up the 34 2 pot rears last night. Was planning on the MC stopper and braided lines also.

I bled front and rear for almost an hour trying to get a pedal feel, then nothing. Put it down and went to drive, and I still had no brakes at all. Anyway, I sold the brakes last night, got double what I paid for them. I may just go the R34 GTT brakes front and rear with braided lines and call it quits there. After all I am only wanting 300 rwkw when boosted. Cheers guys for all the insight.

Put front brembos on, bled brakes, and they don't work. I take it the stock BMC and booster doesn't put enough hydraulic pressure behind the pistons to make them work ?

Straight bolt up front and rear. And yes, I do have brembos on n/a 34 Just need rear rotors and BMC now.

ATM I have the stock r34 single pot rear calipers, and r32 GTST caslipers on the front with adapters running 324mm GTR rotors. It brakes really really well, but it is too much on the front compares to the rear, it's not well balanced at all. I'll update this later and see how I go.

They use the same bolts, so that's no worries. What I'm concerned about is the rear handbrake setup ? How is it done on skylines ? All previous cars I've had have had a line that runs down and sits on a hook on the back of the caliper. Looking at the back of the brembos, it only has the brake fluid line. I haven't pulled the rear calipers off to look yet, will be doing it tomorrow, just getting insight first.

Anyone ?

Picked up a set of front and rear 33 GTR brembos to be fitted to my r34 GT. Any insight on those who have done it ? Fronts seem to be a straight bolt up, but are the brake lines the same ? ATM I'm running 32 GTST calipers. And for the rear, how is the handbrake set up ? Cheers fellas

Need a pair of good condition R34 headlights at a decent/cheap price and an R34 Hood. Located Brisbane. Straight text me on 0433243453 as I'm not here much.

Interested in front bar, got another pic from front mate ?

The window still goes freely up and down just till that point. Once it hits that point it just stops instantly, I've got the door card apart and silicone sprayed the tracks but still nothing and I can't see anything stopping it.

Hey guys, just recently my mate put my front passenger window down, but then when I went to put it up, it stops about 3" up and won't go any further, you can put it back down, but will always stop at that point when going up. I've pulled the door cars off and I cannot find anything stopping it. Ideas ?

How is the cell check done mate ? never done one before.

Bump ???

I own an r34 GT skyline. Was factory auto, but now had an rb25det manual box conversion with auto cluster. I sold the auto cluster today, put a manual cluster in and now my ABS and airbag lights are stuck on. Went for a drive, than my check engine light came on BUT no power loss has occurred, still idles smooth and drives fine. Would it be the auto ecu having a spaz over the manual cluster and f**king out ?

BUMP

I have for sale a HKS Fcon S plug and play ecu for an r34 rb25det with tuning cables AND tuning software to do it yourself! Asking $400. Located Brisbane QLD. Text 0433243453 for more info/pics, new to this forum.