FBRacing

I believe this topic discussion will be like discussing religion. You're right, everyone else is wrong. Personally, it really maters on the car being purchased. If it's a car torn apart down to shell and rebuilt... wouldn't care if it had 500,000 on the odometer. I'd probably still pay near asking price. If the car is your typical street car with mods, the odometer is everything! Not everyone replaces every small bushing. Bolts are getting stretched and weaker. Fuel cell might be drying out which leads to cracks and leaks. Rubber hoses, brake lines, fuel lines might be corroding and about to fail. Your point is somewhat valid but I tend to lean towards the odometer means everything. What sucks is when people to cluster swaps with the odometer being lower. This is a big problem here in the US with modified imports. People like to use JDM gauge clusters since they're better looking than the USDM version. I'm guilty of this myself. Did I correct the odometer...nope. Too excited to get it installed to not think about it. So does my Honda CRX have 45,000km's? Nope! More like 190,000 miles! But it's my car, never plan on selling it, and it was torn down and rebuilt from ground up. I keep hearing about this KM roll back thingy you guys are talking about from shippers making compliant cars and cutting corners. I'm assuming this is why this topic was started.

Brilliant! Thanks!

Could you fast this please? ECR33 030850 Thanks

I don't know. Check relays, ignition connection, and wiring. Honestly I despise electrical problems. When it gets extremely cold here, the electrical connections begin to fail till the interior is warmed up. Something to do with that white pasty stuff they use on electrical connections freezing up and not making contact correctly. Thought that might be your situation.

Are you located where the outside temps reach below freezing?

High compression is usually associated with a n/a. Low comp with forced induction. You trying to achieving any thing with 9.5ish.1 comp and above has a higher risk of detonation for your RB20det. Ideally for a force induction motor supercharged or turbo would be in the 8-8.5.1 range for reliable safe worry free function. This topic asking the pros and cons goes into a rabbit hole of controversy and opinion. Every engine builder believes what the do and how they build an engine equals to personal beliefs of religion aka everyone is wrong but themselves. I agree with Superben somewhat that no one will give you a correct answer unless you research for yourself. I hate telling someone to go "read" but in this case Google and the search function here on SAU is your best friend.

Does work. Cleans out the carbon for better valve seating.

I can vouch for RAW. Good people and super fast shipping. Just bought some silicon couplers from them.

Here's the Seibon hood. I own a Zenki but I'm converting it all to a Kouki front. I'll get pics of the VIS Racing bumper when it gets done with paint. It was getting a coat of primer when I stopped in the body shop. I plan doing carbon fiber fenders later and probably gonna paint them white to blend in. Not sure if I will leave them natural fiber because I think that'll be too much contrast on a white car with a carbon hood. I plan to get sell my BBS wheels for some black Volk Rays or something like them. The old bumper seems to already disappeared too! I think my buddy came and picked it up for his project. He's converting his S-14 into a 15 and seems to think the old JUN bumper would work somehow. What have you decided on from Jap Salon?

I really wanted to be but I'm still not 100% ready for my largest race for the season coming up in a few weeks. I have a new motor installed that I haven't heard make noise yet!!! We might make a day trip cause I have a few empty body panels that could use sponsorship. Kinda up to the wife also.

That's what I'd figure what to do also. Was hoping someone had an idea how to wire it and what type of relays or controller to use. Probably utilize the front bumper light wire??? Maybe add another bulb in the corner??? Maybe use a two filament bulb instead of the 194??? Funny thing is when I buy a car I look at three big things. Is the body perfect? Is the interior perfect? The electrical all working? I could care less about buying a car with horrible mechanical because I can fix it. Body... don't have the patience. Interior...extremely hard to find the small screw covers on a grab handle. Electrical... extremely difficult to trouble shoot hundreds of feet of wire for shorts. I've been researching aftermarket ideas for something that might work. Had an idea to use a double filament bulb with some kind of new socket for it, install it somehow without destroying my housings, and using the front bumper wire to make it blink. What do you think?

Awesome! I'm located in Queen Creek. It's southeast of Gilbert. Where are you guys located now?

I'm located in the US. I have my own race shop in AZ. Just curious on the product. Looks great.

I'm going to visit the body shop in a few days. I'll snap a few.

I use these frequently on my semi-trucks and trailers when I swap the marker lights to LED. What I'm looking for is if anyone has wired the corner bulb in the headlight housing to be the turn signal and remove the front bumper signals?

No one has tried to use their headlamp corner lights as turn signals?

Of the hood or old bumper?

That's a good looking hood. I tried looking for one of those ways back but ended getting a Seibon JU hood.

Selling price?

What I figured. Seems a lot of those remotes forgot to get on the boat with these cars. Aftermarket alarm it is..

I searched all over several forums and could not locate the correct method to program the key buttons my '98 GTS-T, so after a few days of trying every combination of steps located on 240sx, 300zx, and infiniti forums I came up with this: make sure all doors are closed, get in and lock the doors manually, insert and remove the key from the ignition 6 times within 10 seconds, the doors should then unlock to indicate it is in program mode, turn key to acc. position (do not start!) and manually relock the doors, press the lock button on the key once, the doors should then unlock again to indicate acceptance of key code. remove key, then get out and close the door and test the lock/unlock buttons. if the above steps were followed in order, all should work correctly! Above quoted from GTR.co.uk. Does anyone know if the S1 got a keyless option? Searching keeps bringing up S2 and it was a common factory option.

Found one! Does anyone know how to pair it to the car?

Where to even get one?

You have an S1? I just don't know when they started using them... Ugh! It'd be nice to walk up and not have to try to fiddle with keys to get in. You can tell that a key has been used for some time to get in cuz of all the scratches around the key hole.

I have a 2007 chevy 2500hd 4x4 with a Duramax with all kinds of upgrades for sale here in the US if interested? It'll tow anything you'll give it. Shipping might be costly though.... Just throwing it out there.