FBRacing

Thanks! Big help! The key I got was a re-cut from one of those GTR keys you can buy on eBay. Do you know if the S1 got these?

Also... A lot lately when I try to look at pics on threads, they half load when expanded. The thumbnails show them loaded completely but half loaded when blown up. Idk...

I don't know if you you guys are responsible for the iPad app for SAU but it tends to close the app at random when using it. Tried deleting it and re-installing. Still doing it. Have you been getting issues from others or is this just me? Thanks Cole

How hard is it to peel off? Will washing the car peel it up or does it require some effort? I'm very interested in it now!

My mistake. I was thinking of a completely different product. I didn't realize yours peeled off! I wish I had that years ago! Stuff I used was basically a clear coat paint system. Branch out man! We need that stuff here!!!! My fault for not fully researching your product. Thought he was referring to the kit I used.

I have a S1 R33 and when I bought the car, all I got was a key. Car has power locks of course so does it have keyless entry FOB that should go with it? Does these cars come with key FOBs? Just curious. . .

Not a 26. Meant a 25

Did you have an auto before or manual? How low is your car? What's your goal? Drag or daily? A T400 from a chevy has a deep pan. Might drag it over speed humps. Castlemaine Rod Shop in Victoria sells adapters for 350/400/700. It's been done. I built a RB26 with a 700 attached for a guy here in the US. Put it in a sand rail for him.

BBS split spokes/mesh style are what I consider 90's and still look great today. You could do a touch of "updating" by doing a staggered look. Retro with new stance. Or if you're into the 3 spoke look like Top Secret used once on their Supra back in the day. White with a red center ring if I remember right.

I had the JUN front on mine for awhile. Swapped to VIS Racing Techno-R front. Fit well till a car decided different. I felt the quality was there. Will take a body shop or you some elbow and sandpaper to clean the edges up before paint but that's typical on all aftermarket bumpers/fiberglass.

Went on super clear. Looked like simple clear coat. Mask and tape off your area. Apply. Wait. Apply. Wet sand little. Unmask and wash. Wish I had a pic of it. Friends car was red. Stuff he got was supposedly color matched. Once dried, it looked deeper in color. Not sure if it was that he put on three apps or what. Couldn't tell at night but easy to see in the sun. Laid super flat and thin. He never tried removing it cause he later went to a fiberglass hood. I never attempted to take it off either. Far as I know, once it's on....it's on!

A friend at a Jaguar dealer helped is gonna help me with the next application on my new R33. I guess that's a common dealer option for their cars and he told me he'd help out to get it right. I guess if you really want it clean looking, get it professionally done. I know I'll never do it myself again. I've considered using a clear sticker thingy kit someone was talking bout but I'd think the clear vinyl would start to yellow from the sun.

Clear. Friend tried the "color matched" but once dried, looked horrible.

Only did two cuz I didn't want to have too much of a lip from the paint.

Swirls you can see in the sun

I only used it where rocks are common. Like front of the hood, bumper, and around the wheel area.

Used it. Wouldn't suggest unless you paint is absolutely perfect where you plan to use it. I had very small paint swirls on the nose of the hood and never really thought of it. Applied the stuff on. Got the car waxed and buffed. Now I got a super clean hood minus the nose of it. So.... get the paint perfect otherwise it looks funky.

Speaking from personal experience the head will come off. No way around it. Like the guy above ^ said, always use anti-seize on your plugs. Those threads are getting exposed to some high heat explosions in the cylinders. They'll tend to want to weld themselves to the aluminum head.

Keep in touch if stress cracks appear.

Thanks

Car looks great! Welcome to SAU. What's with the game to guess the car next to it? Thought you were here for that Nissan not Toyota. Otherwise great job on the buy! How is the interior? There's two major things I look for when purchasing a car that makes or breaks the deal. Interior and body. Couldn't care less if the engine ran. It could be rebuilt. Trying to find a small screw cover for a grab handle for a car almost 20 years old.... good luck. Engine bay clean?

Smuggle

Reason I said about the carbon ducting is there is an eBay insert you can use and let's you retain your factory front signal light.

I've tried researching thru SAU and I can't seem to find if this has been done. What I'm finding difficult is the translation between US, Brits, and all you Ozzie. Every country seems to have their own word for a part. For example here in the US what we call the hood, you call a bonnet. Or my favorite is when I asked about a trunk lid and I was asked what that was. You guys call it a boot. Not frustrated one bit cause I love learning about everything and other cultures but sometimes it hinders the researching process. I bought my R33 without front turn signals on the bumper because the previous owner installed a JUN front bumper. Because no front turn, everything blinks fast. I find this annoying. This is what I've been looking for. . . I want to not install a front bumper turn signal but instead try to tap into the headlight housing corner bulb to blink when asked to but stay solid amber when not turning when the marking lamps are turned on. Then when the mark lights are off it would just signal. Make sense? I was wanting to install a front signal light but honestly haven't found a "style" I like. I was also considering making a carbon fiber ducts for the large inlets openings on the front bumper to channel air to front brakes. Has anyone tapped into those corner headlights to make them signal?

What type of material did you use?