FBRacing

2005 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD 4x4 Crewcab $20k maybe? $300 of diesel in a Titan 80 gallon tank Average of 1900 miles per tank if not towing.

I like the paint matched drag lip. Looks clean and almost factory. The GTR one would look sweet if the wing was CF along with that roof one also. The "storm trooper" look. The CF what you can on a white car is what I'm currently doing. All in all, it's your Godzilla. Do what looks good to you. Where did you find that?

Those units do look simple but not my style. So I have it figured out. I can use ports 59 and 109 on the ecu to run a radiator fan and also an oil cooler fan. Run that wire inside the engine harness and branch it off from where the A/C condenser wiring goes to. Once you open the hood, it'll look like the car was built with electric fans from the factory. No extra gauges or aftermarket bs in the way or cluttering the dash. Still able to use the oem ecu with the built motor just reprogrammed with my fuel and timing maps with a few additions to the ports. Attention to detail. I've also decided to get rid of the stock gauge cluster and install a Racepak IQ3 in its place. Used them before. It'll help to keep watch of the motors vitals since the stock gauge cluster has unreliable stepper motors. Hence why people buy aftermarket ones to clutter their dash and pillars.

You're father is Craig Breedlove?

I did not mean to insult you or your cars worth. I do apologize. And yes you are correct about an engines spec'd temp for optimal wear and efficiency.

Well it was either reprogram the stock ecu on at a fellows shop dyno or buy a stand alone EFI for the built engine which hasn't yet been started since it was placed into the car. I was just hoping to reprogram. It's easier without ripping out all of the engine harness and installing an aftermarket unit. Time is what i don't have.

Now that's thinking outside the box! I like that idea. I'm going to play with that idea. Maybe an interface of some sort to piggy back on it. I wish to retain the A/C. Thanks!

After everyone's helpful input on stating that there isn't a port on the oem ECU/ECM to expand off of, I've came to the conclusion that an aftermarket stand alone EFI system would and will be efficient and the solution required for my goal. Unless someone has found something different, I do appreciate your input and conversations.

It actually does but you already stated the main reason. Low idle=low fan speed=low coolant flow. This is a drift car built for street. It will be a street legal drift car with all creature comforts. All the reliability of a "off the shelf" car but with handling, power, and functionality of a professional drift car. It's practically already sold once done. Your R33 that you might of bought 5 years ago only cost you $4k but over here, we can sell that exact same car with NO mods for $20-25k overnight. Now imagine a car that I'm building. $$$! It's what I do. I build full race cars with the creature comforts we love. I'm not ripping on you and by no means want to come off as a jack ass. But the main focus of this topic was to ask for help to locate a port on the ECU/ECM to engage a fan. And before I started hacking into the ECU and reprogramming the maps and timing, I wanted to insure that I could expand off of it in "stock trim" because to me, that's cleanliness. I don't fancy gauges everywhere, and not to fond of how the FC's remote just velcros to the dash. That's tacky. I'd rather find a r34 display, hack that, and display what is important to driver/operator. Clean and looks stock but it has been altered to meet what is needed. If I was able to find a port, use the stock ECU, keep the dash clean, the engine bay clear of cluttered wires, than I accomplished my goal.

The main reason manufactures keep a cars temp to 190 degrees is primarily to achieve a happy medium. Cold motor creates high carbon exhaust. Also for creature comforts like climate control. It's not practical for a car to run around 140 when it's 30 degrees outside. But I must remind you, I live in Arizona, USA. The yearly average temp here is 115. We have a record temp of 128 here. I don't use thermostats. To restrictive. It's hard to keep a motor below 195 when you're revving the piss out of it to stay sideways and the air isn't being naturally forced thru. Another thought that we're leaning to is methanol fuel. Burns cooler.

Actually after crunching some math equations, a electric fan setup will increase throttle response, mpg, hp, and cooling efficiency by two factors. First cooling factor is that you're able to set when you would like to start cooling. This is key cause cooler your motor is, more horsepower achieved. Second is a significant gain in water flow. Since the RB has a belt driven water pump, that large plastic fan slows down ability of that pump to work freely. Especially once that clutch engages at higher temps. Once the fan clicks, the pump has a harder time pushing coolant through which creates a restrictive flow then creates coolant not cooling as quickly as it could. Figured this out by trial and error. Also by removing that plastic fan keeps those pain in the ass gaskets sealed up in the pump. So after having a long conversation with a close friend and owner of a custom race radiator shop, busting out the white board and dry erase markers, and pulling math equations from google we've come to the conclusion that it made no sense why Nissan ever installed a clutch fan on these motors. You can also easily rebuild your alternator to submit a larger amp payload at idle and picking up a compact deep cell gel battery like what Odyssey deliverers. Not only will this cure any doubts anyone has that it'll make your motor work harder to charge your battery but also create a dependable electrical system. But as I said earlier, I will be utilizing a stand alone EFI system that I can fully customize and retro fit for this motor. I've already made my HP goal, now I just am looking for reliability. SDS has worked for me well in the past and most likely use it again. Just trying to utilize the standard ECU. I'm the type of builder that is into better than factory installs. Cleanliness is the key. Thank you for your input.

Also the amp pull that comes off a electric fan draws little current if properly installed with the correct gauge of wire at correct lengths will not alter ohms or step potential. Use of relays and capacitors play a roll. I use electric fans along with electric water pumps on all my race motors. I live in Arizona, USA where temps reach well over 115 degrees daily. I build off road race trucks and race thru the southwest deserts with electric fan setups. For those who honestly think it'll draw from the alternator so bad that it'll hurt more than gain, please research before stating that opinion. Until you physically feel the increase in throttle response from freeing up crank stress, don't bark. Mechanical fans are awesome for trucks designed for towing not for cars that are designed for 330km. All I was inquiring about is if these ecu's had a prong to accept a fan. Most manufacturers do put a ecu control prong with mechanical fan setups do to a wide variance of engine and drivetrain options. For instance, the 2001-2007 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 is the same truck throughout the whole pickup line up. They come with a mechanical fan from factory but if you opted for it and paid for it, a electric fan could be fitted. The manufacture than would derate your towing capacities do to limitations a electric fan can do under extreme towing conditions. I will be looking into a stand alone EFI system.

I'm changing for multiply reasons. It frees up crack horsepower. I want to be able to manage when the fan comes on and at what speeds. I want to clean up the engine bay. Using a custom radiator that a friend has built for me is actually much thicker and pushes closer towards the motor which also makes it where I can't use a clutch fan.

Converting from clutch setup to electric on my 95 R33 RB25. On most cars, the ecu has a port where you can tap into it to gain a ecu governed switch even though the car comes with a clutch fan. Not real keen on those "kits" that stick a probe in the radiator core fins. I've looked at diagrams and schematics but unfortunately have been unable to locate a port. I also understand that nissan also did a electric fan on these RB25's from factory or is that incorrect? Any help would be appreciated.

What I found that works for me to find vac and piping leaks: Let the car sit at idle till warm. Spray small amounts of carb cleaner on fittings. Engine will shutter if you have a leak. Only works under idle conditions since the motor is in vacuum. Had a similar problem. Made boost and would lose it towards the top end. Not down to zero but close. All my piping is aluminum so I wasn't getting a pipe flattening. Come to find out after several hours of searching and test driving is that some how one of the IC piping ends got a small bend where it would allow it to pass by the T-Clamp and blow out. Drove me crazy how it'd only do it under hard boost. First time it did it actually made my heart drop cuz i thought i just blew my motor. Would of never found the leak till spraying that carb cleaner. Just a thought. Good luck.

The only down fall I see with a cut & shut is the way the air travels. If looking a stock manifold from the side, it makes a flow able loop from TB to head ports. No hard hitting junctions. When I see the cut & shut manifold, I see the air damning in the back before it starts making a loop around. Looks like extra work for the air flow. I think the Greddy version helped with that hiccup while gaining air volume for less restriction. But then again it still rams the back. If you also compare to Honda motors which are insanely mechanical marvels making a 100hp per liter N/A, it has the same style of engineering as a Greddy style manifold from factory. Just my thoughts. It does seem like a lot of work though to gain easier access to the plugs and coils. But I must admit it does look unique. First time I've seen that to be honest. But that is what is so cool about this engineering stuff with motors, it just might work better than a Greddy. It'd be awesome if someone had some dyno tests done between the different styles. Low, mid, and high end lost or gains.

I have a S1 with the Greddy manifold with KU engineering TB. It accepts stock fuel rail which I still have but upgraded to 750 injectors. No leaks, problems, or fights. You do lose your windshield wiper fluid tank for the piping to go thru the sheet metal. I have 3 3/4 inch piping running to it from the FMIC. I wouldn't go with it unless you build the head with cams, a turbo that can put out pass 12 psi, and a fuel/ecu management system that can handle. A buddy has one on his stock S2 RB25 and it took away a lot of mid but top end greatly improved sort of. It felt around 5000ish RPM it started dropping out. Maybe the turbo was max'n out. The Greddy style intakes are much larger in volume so it takes a bit longer for that snail to fill it up. I don't know. I guess research it more. There's gotta be a lot of guys running them.