FBRacing

Tinkle

http://www.ebay.com/itm/140891670862 What do you guys think? Or maybe.... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/150748441508 Defi looks cool cuz it'd flow with the stock clocks. The APEXi looks even cooler cuz it goes blackout when off and has a wicked startup.

I like that stance. What width and offset would work with r33 GTST? I see he's using spacers which I don't want to. Guards are already rolled.

I know this thread is old but I'm looking at purchasing the Greddy also. Any pros and cons using it? Regrets? I think I understand that you can buy an adapter to plug into a Greddy e-manage?

I will definitely get the car tuned and dyno before anything else

Thank you everyone for your input. I took the injectors down to the local shop to be cleaned and flowed. Guy there said they looked like a custom flow set. Something about the ends not being originals. See what happens in the next few days.

I don't know what the tune is. Haven't got that far yet

More pics

The turbo is the hks Kai setup with the greddy eManage. Have a greddy intake, ku engineering tb, greddy fmic, and hks built head. This is what i know so far. Bought the car as is and still finding more aftermarket parts every time I look at it.

I'm in need of some advice. I've spent several days researching injectors, brands, flows, etc. and I'm not 100% positive on what works. I have a set of JECS red top side feed for my RB25DET S1 and two went bad. From what I have read is the JECS red tops flow at 225cc and ohm reading at 14.8. Can anyone else confirm this? Also, I have a hard time finding a straight answer on if it's ok to go larger in flow size even is your motor doesn't require it. Most forum discussions get way off topic and it seems like it's never truly answered. I plan to call a local shop to have the injectors cleaned and serviced at $18 each but I don't want to spend the money if I can throw in a larger size injector for larger power numbers down the road. I've found a local guy who would sell me a set of 600cc at 11.5 ohms for a couple hundred.Would this work or just flood out the motor? I would appreciate any advice or comments anyone may have.

That was the same problem I was having. Fixed it by restoring a backup

I use that program and haven't had any issues like that. Sorry buddy

I recently changed out my radio to a more up to date one. I have owned my R33 for a year now. I assumed the USB cable in the ash tray was for a MP3 player connection of some sort but never tested it out cuz I don't own one. As I was replacing the radio, I noticed the USB cord did not connect to the radio but kept going to somewhere behind the passenger side dash. Removed the glove box to find a Greddy eManage unit! Go figure... Another time was when replacing the valve cover gaskets and found my whole entire head was built by HKS. They even have their stamp into the head itself. Find myself pretty luck on this purchase since there's more top name parts on the car than what I've paid for the car.

I plugged my phone into my computer and restored it to the last backup before the app went missing

I do have an auto. Maybe it is for a kick down? But it kicks down even under 20% throttle. IDK

Good to know! First time I've seen a switch on the gas pedal before from factory. At first, thought the previous owner installed a NOS micro switch! Lol never knew it was there until I turned the key on without the motor on and radio just to chill, and heard the switch once I was pretending to drive around the Nurburgring.

Curious to what this is for. Only activates when completely pressed to the floor.

Hooked up my scan tool and gave a code 21: ignition circuit

And also the car runs like it is a scooby. Down a cylinder kinda of sound. No power and can't rev past 3500. Super strong fuel smell out the exhaust. Over fueling so I'm thinking not enough spark.

Having trouble with my rb25det s1 in a 33. Changed plugs, coils, cleaned and soldered afm, fuel filter, and tore apart the wire loom looking for a bad wire. Next up is replacing the ignitor. Is there a way to test them using a multi-meter to check it is working properly? If so, what are the specs? A new one cost $200ish and I'm tight on money. I'd go get one if I knew they would let me return it but they won't allow you to return electrical components. This is the one I have.

Figured it out

I'm not sure if it's just me or others are having the same problem but I'm unable to locate the SAU app thru iTunes. I upgraded my phone today from the iPhone 5s 16g to the 5s 64g and all my apps loaded up except the SAU. Just an FYI and maybe it's just a glitch for the moment. Maybe you have any advice?

Same problem here. All cylinders are firing but sounds like its running 5. Have a fuel pressure gauge and far as I guess, they're not leaking down once the car is off since it holds pressure for hours. Compression is solid. I haven't done a leak down test yet but I'm leaning towards a bad igniter or AFM. Let me know if swapping the AFM works. Going to change the fuel filter too.

Started to and stopped when I saw the brackets twisting with it. That's why I asked if there's a trick to it. I tried shoving a small pick inside it to free it but no go. Do I have to replace the whole bracket?

Best thread ever! Great idea