tikki169

Coming from SA I can tell you that no matter what you put in your car they can steal it if they really want it. It's only going to deter them but if they want it it's gone. Get a 9mm para, trunk monkey and a **** off big dog. That should help. But seriously I know of guys that can steal cars with tracking units and still get away with them. If you drive it to an airport apparently all the radars around there block out the tracker. i know of other ways but I'm not gonna give anyone ideas. In SA they test out all of this latest and greatest equipment and 99.9% of it will be stolen.

Reinforcing was butchered already to fit my Trial front bar so ignore how it's been cut as a guidline.

The only problem I guess would be when you're doing 1000 RPM idling down the hill then slaming it into gear and jumping it up suddenly to a few thousand RPM's, but then it's still not going to cause too much wear and tear.

OK can confirm the piping kits for a 33 do fit a 32. Takes a little bit of work and some planning but it all fits in. Took me about 6 hours to do all of it and clean it all up. cutting the reinforcing and everything

Dopes anyone know where to get the flat bootlid from (sorry to hijack thread) I can make fiberglass products so would be interested in making the bootlid

Money has been deposited

Sorry busy day will deposi tthe cash tomorrow morning

Will deposit the cash monday and pm yuo to let you know it's been done

anyone

That looks the same as what ours do. Just that your view is from the top with the solinoids. Hardly anny differences at a glance

HAve a read of the thread in the stagea section and what Sydney Kid has to say. There is a link on the first page of this thread posted by me.

Please PM me if you have one.

HAHAHAHA yeah that seems about right. What I did was put a drop sheet on the floor and had about 6 saturday papers spread outso it was nice and thick to absorb anything. Nothing to stop it dripping and running down your arms though.

OO that's got to be the worst luck. What fluid are you going to be using? How much came out of the R34 box?

Yeah I know what you mean about the dripping. We're lucky cause I had the new VB with me I just matched up which ones were out the VB and removed them from the VB still attached. Just make sure you see which cprings go where because only one is goingh to go back in. Otherwise not a bad job at all. O and having ramps helps a ton.

That's why I was saying use sandable GC. It's alot softer and easier to sand but still has the strength of normal GC. This is what they use in alot of boat hull repairs and the stuff can be buffed up to a high finish. Have a look for a a place like fiber glass international, here in Brisbane they are pretty well equiped with all your needs. Agreed Du pont are the shit, they make the best stuff but you'll pay for it. Sikkens or Standox are also up there with the best and are alot cheaper.

Any news on this?

Admittedly GC isn't for beginners but it can be brushed on, that's why they sell Brushable GC, it's thicker than sprayable GC. I've always used Brushable and have made thousands of products. I'm busy making a copy of mirrors and an airbox/heatsheild for 32's and I'm using brushable. GC is pritty thick and depends on the angle you're applying it to. If you're gonna apply it to something vertical then yeah it'll run but if it's just at a slight angle the run will be minimal. It's pretty thick stuff. I woulodn't use degreasa. It won't affect the fiber but it'll make it tricky to paint as some of the additives in it are reactive with paint and you'll get fish eye (this is the same effect you'll get if you spray silicone and try to spray over the top) paint wont hold to it in places.

It fits no problem there, just worried about chopping my chassi arms but I assure you it all fits nicely.

Not that easy. You've got to go through the chassi arm on the drivers side. I've left it for now and I'll have a go next weekend. I was too rushed for time to have a proper look but it doesn't look straight forward.

I'm fitting a 33 to a 32 this weekend will let you know if it works

Still intersted

Don't put acertone on it. Acertone disolves resin so that's a big no no. OK gel coat is a resin...sort of. You use it as the first layer in a pruduct. GC is either brushable or sprayable, I use brushable cause it's thicker. It was viscosity but not incredibly much....kind of like a syrup viscosity to it. For a 5mm repair yopu can paint on a layer...let it dry and then paint on another layer. What you need to do to prep it is just was it with warm soapy water(to make sure any wax and releasing agent is removed) then a light sand with about 180 paper just sto roughin it up. GC doesn't stick well to smooth surfaces. If you can get ahold of sandable (brushable) GC then it's going to be alot easier cause tooling GC id F***ing hard (I use this to make the moulds) and you'll sand your butt off. Any reason that you don't want you use body filler. BF is flexible aswell and alot less work. Um underneath you can just roughen it up with some 80grit paper (aftre washing) and paint resin on. It sounds like he's used to heavier matting (matting comes in dif weights per square meter and the heavier it is the more dense it is so needs more resin) if you use heavy matting and lnot enough resin you get that horrid rough finish. Instead of using say 2 layers of 450 I'de use 1 layer 300 and 1 layer 450 and just use a bit more resin for a better finish. Any further help just drop me a PM and I'll try help if you like.

Speak to NA_R33 he's selling his and it's got a few things done to it for 40K

I'm with you on that. I usse to own my own business back In south africa making and supplying fiberglass kits adn I've done hundreds of hours of laminating. Never put glass on from the top always from beneath. It'll take you hours to try level and smooth it out again. If you want to put anything ontop go to a proper fiberglass supplier and get sandable gelcoat. That way you can fix up the areas and sand it back. sandable gelcoat is still rigit but flexable enough not to crack. On that note you can still bog it up with body filler depending on how bad it is. Unless I can see the bonnetr I can't give you an exact proceedure but my best bet is the SG, as it sands down to a smooth finish.