steven22

I have an R33 GTR with the factory Brembo brakes but I have noticed that the calipers are really noisy, yeah thats right not the pads but the calipers. For example: If I am reversing into a park and I drive forward to straighten up and then reverse back, the calipers will make a loud clamping/clunking noise when I sto to change into reverse. Example 2: If say I am driving down a round and then change lanes and turn into a turning lane, I will of course apply the brakes to slow down, in this instance the clamping/clunking noise has a delay from the time when I applied the brakes. I would also like to make mention that I have never felt the abs working and onthe odd occasion have done some serious braking. The light on the dash is not on but is there a way to test the abs without having to slam on the brakes at speed? In case they dont work I dont want flat spots. Does any one know what is going in with my brakes? Thanks in advance.

Driving at below 300rpm may be fine for a gtst, because it wont be on boost, but for a gtr (a standard one that is) it is on boost. My car has forged pistons and I find that it wont rev really well because of co;d start requirements anyway. What I do is let it sit there for a couple of minutes till say the water temp guage reads at about 1/4 then begin to drive it, gently of course until fully warmed up. The oil temp guage in the centre, i think this is for the gearbox, will take about three times as long to warm up as your engine, but still be carefull with it until it reaches about 85 degrees. Hope this helped.

Fair enough, thats what I though, will deal with it, could be worse

Although that is fun, its not so good on the street. The car just feels heavy off the line, should I just assume that because of the gtr's weight and the 4wd that it will always be heavy, or can this be helped in some way, like with a better flowing exhaust or something like that.

Hey I've done a little searching on the matter but haven't been able to find what I'm looking for. Anyway, my GTR is slow off the line, what sort of things do I need to add/change to give it a little more take off without having to dial up a heap of revs.

Hey aaron_25t, how much did it cost to get that fiberglass work done?

If I have a set of 800watt speakers, say they are 500 wats RMS(made up), is this 500 watts RMS per speaker. I'm trying to work out how to match an amp to this sort of setup

The later ones did

Price?

Can you be a little more specific. cos you cant just pull them off, they are bolted on. Although if there were enough people pulling.....maybe.lol!

Ta, couldnt remember if they were the t28 or the t25

Hey everyone, I know this is probably a really newbi question but I have searched, can someone please tell me what turbo's came standard on an r33 gtr and if anyone has any specs on them they would be much appreciated. Thanks.

Does anyone have any standard R33 GTR bov's ready to be connected, with the recirculating hoses included?

Yeah mine is the same, quite deep, I will give one atmo bov a try and see what happens

Fair enough, then what is everyone's though of a gtr going around dosing its head off, becuase I was looking at getting a pod setup. I have also thought of only blocking one of my bov's, this seems like a good idea as less air is being wasted to the atmo, yet less air is being sent back to the turbo's so the bearings will be less stressed. Win Win I think. And yes I have though af reinstating a plumb back setup.........but where's the fun in that!

I'm confused, if it measures the air twice, it would put more fuel in and run rich for a second and the typical atmo bov pop would be seen. Which is what happens. My car has not stalled once and appears to be getting better performance as there seems to be a little less lag. I'm also confused about what people have against this noise. I will admit, I have left the standard airbox on but have taken the snorkel of so the noise is muffled but still is quite audible. Is it because skylines are seen to be more classy than vl turbo's and should therefore go about being a performance car quietly?

Sad for the Truck driver, hopefully he will get over it. I hate car thieves though..........scum got what they deserved. The real sad thing is that the car wasnt full of thieves.

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I dont get it, why would it stall? Sorry if this is a silly question

Spose cos they are so rare, i still wouldt have one, its 80k

Just thought everyone would like to know that there is a genuine r33 Autech GTR for sale on ebay, I 'fasted' the vin no. too. It's real so the price tag is probably deserving. Paste this link in your browser. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-Skyline-R33-...1QQcmdZViewItem

I had mine rebuilt pretty much back to stock. The only thing I changed was the pistons, I went forged because the standard ones were $2000. Heres what I had done Total Rebuild with forged pistons came to $6040.77 Break down of price Engine reconditioning works: $1012.60, what was conducted is as follows. -Degrease & hot tank long motor -Engine block bore & hone -Surface grind head -Measure & linish crank shaft -Dismantle, check tunnels, check conrods, crank & pistons -Vacum test, dismantle & inspect cylinder head -Bleed down hydraulic, fit valve stem seal -Supply main bearings -Supply conrod bearings Misc. Parts. -Set of JE Forged pistons rings inc. $1660 -Full gasket rebuild kit $358.84 Dismantle & Reassemble engine(Incl assembly of head) $799 4 Liters of running in engine oil $32.65 2.5 Liters of Diff oil $20.68 6 Platinum spark plugs $108 Engine timing belt $109 52 Hours labor to remove head and engine, reinstate $1960 engine after it was rebuilt, road test, bed in new rings & service As you can see my labour was cheap so you may/may not have to add a little there. Hope that helps

I think it might be the cat converter's temperature sensor. Could possibly need a new cat. I cant be sure though i'm new at this, sorry.

I've got a pic but cant upload it, you got an email addy?