steven22

Yeah this has happened to me as well, a vz ss with the 6 speed pulled up beside me at the lights, i dialed up 4 grand, dropped the clutch when the lights went green, when he pulled up next to me at the next set of lights I was still laughing, gotta love GTR's

Yeah use the BP ultimate, cleaner and better for your skyline, if you dont you'll notice it just doesnt rev right. Definetely get it detailed but watch your spear wheel and jack, detailers sometimes leave them out of the car when they are finished. Get it serviced as was said above. But before you go on a long trip, just check oil level and have a peek at the coolant reservior and check the level of the coolant, it will most likely be filled with a green liquid. (sorry if you knew all this). Other than that, have fun You got any pics of the car?

I have an R33 Gtr as my everyday driver. If you are going to drive it around the streets you dont need ridiculous tires and brake pads and if you keep it relatively stock they dont cost much to run, not much more than a gtst. If you are thinking of getting one, get it. They are fine for the street and a great all round car. Trust me when you have people taking photo's of your stock gtr at a petrol station whilst your getting fuel, (yeah actually happened), you wont regret it for a second. But when you buy it, get it checked at a shop that tunes high performance turbocharged cars. They will tell you everything you will want to know about the car. Air/Fuel, boost, torque split, etc, but more importantly they will correct any problems it may have or at least tell you how to. I hade mine tuned and we found that it had an aftermarket chip in it that could have damaged the engine if it remained in control of the ecu. We also found the timing was out, causing it to be pinging its head off. Whilst I was having it tuned, we upped the boost to 13.5 pound which is fine and well within limits, adjusted the timing and dissabled that chip and also adjusted the fuel map. All for under $200. Saved the motor. You also will need to run BP ultimate or the equivalent Shell fuel. If you think of getting anything else, keep driving, trust me, the other stuff is no good for that RB26. Get it serviced regularly, keep good fuel in it, keep good oil in it and you'll be turning heads in no time.

yeah, that looks like a 400R kit

Great, looking so forward to that

And again,

I'll try again, gallery_11676_2008_2636.jpg

would the solonoid look like this, if not, what is this. tn_gallery_11676_2008_2636.jpg

1. Yeah mine does that to 2. Mine is metal underneath 3. dunno, cant help you there sorry

Hi everyone, I recently upgraded my panel air filter to that of the like shaped k&n variety. I noticed that when i accelerated, at full boost the gauge was reading at 7 or 700mmHg compared to the usual 5.25 or 525mmHg on the old filter. Can anyone tell me why my GTR has managed to increase its boost by around 3.5 Psi just from an air filter.

I will definetely keep the car, its a nice car, it may not be as quick as all these guys getting around in their gtst's running 800 pounds of boost with so many guages in the car people think your driving an airplane. Quite frankly, and I'm rambling on now but, I like how the guages arent 100% accurate, I like how its only got 17 inch wheels and I like the fact that when you race it against something and it wins, and dont get me wrong, it wins alot, you can say that a gtr will beat [insert car], not a gtr will beat a porsche 911 turbo no worries, dont worry about the 500kw's at the wheels or anything. I'm sure that I will catch the "mod" bug eventually, but at the moment my stock gtr and I are gonna spend some time thrashing some vl turbo's and preludes with big drift wings you can hang powerlines off.

I might add, the turbo's were only taken off to get at the motor, they were externally inspected but not taken apart. Unbolting them shouldn't do anything. Is everyone here presuming that they were taken apart? What I want to know from this is why piston 6 melted and has this happened to anyone else. Also what else should i be asking AVO to check, so far I want: -air/fuel ratio checked -injectors checked -airflow meters checked -fuel map checked -ignition timing checked -power run(may as well)

So what should be done?, new oil pump, new turbo's so most likely an ECU, new fuel pump. Anything else I should look into?

I'm new at this but is there supposed to be something wrong with my turbos because they have been inspected and there is nothing wrong with them. Everything that needed to be replaced, was. Tell me this, what was I going to say when selling them. "here's two Garret T28's of an R33 GTR for sale. In excellent condition with no shaft play, impeller blades all in good condition. Reason for selling: They were left over parts when I rebuilt the engine" Can anyone please tell me why they need to be replaced. More importantly can anyone tell me why a stock version of one of the most alleged bulletproof and reliable motors built by Nissan managed to chew up piston 6

Yeah I thought of doing something to the turbos but they have only done 58,000k's and are still on standard boost.

Nah, I know the guys who removed and replaced the engine. They ran it in a bit for me aswell all at a reasonable price of course.

Yeah, standard turbo's went back on, but its still running standard boost and will stay that way. For now I'm enjoying the standard car, despite the slight increase in displacement. If it was feasable a set of standard pistons would have went in. I also forgot to mention it has 2 Blitz blowoff valves, but there not really much of a mod these days.

Ok, as of 02/09/2007......... Total Rebuild with forged pistons came to $6040.77 Break down of price Engine reconditioning works: $1012.60, what was conducted is as follows. -Degrease & hot tank long motor -Engine block bore & hone -Surface grind head -Measure & linish crank shaft -Dismantle, check tunnels, check conrods, crank & pistons -Vacum test, dismantle & inspect cylinder head -Bleed down hydraulic, fit valve stem seal -Supply main bearings -Supply conrod bearings Misc. Parts. -Set of JE Forged pistons rings inc. $1660 -Full gasket rebuild kit $358.84 Dismantle & Reassemble engine(Incl assembly of head) $799 4 Liters of running in engine oil $32.65 2.5 Liters of Diff oil $20.68 6 Platinum spark plugs $108 Engine timing belt $109 52 Hours labor to remove head and engine, reinstate $1960 engine after it was rebuilt, road test, bed in new rings & service I also replaced the gear box oil with the redline light weight $152.47 shock proof gear oil but that is not included in the total rebuild figure I have done a little over 2000km since the rebuild and am happy to report that the engine is running well & better than ever. I will be taking the car to AVO Turboworld in Melbourne in the middle of this month to have a final check over on a dyno, as well as a power run. FYI, What actually happened was I noticed that when the engine was cold it would miss a little but when it warmed up it would come good. Except one day it didnt come good. So I had someone look at it and we found that cylinder 6 was compressing at about 49KPa(I think it was measured in kilo pascals), compared to the usual 160KPa(I think) from the remaining 5, so we pulled the head off and found that a big chunk of the piston was gone from piston 6. Later when pulled apart it was found that piston 5 had a hair line fracture. The engine was then rebuilt. Most importantly, We arent sure why it happened or where the pieces of the piton went as on inspecting both turbos, they had suffered no damage. Another point I will make is that this GTR is not very modified.....at all. List of mods. -Cat back titanium Fijutsubo Giken Exhaust and now JE oversized forged pistons-Only mechanical mods

Is the standard airbox + snorkel to suit an R33 GTR. If so how much?

Thanks for that, sounds good.

Hi everyone, I am trying to size some tyres for my r33 gtr. I have done a bit of a search and have had no luck on finding the standard tyre size of the r33 gtr. It currently has the standard wheels with tyres which I do not believe to be the standard size (235/45/17). My tyre placard a worn off from getting wet I'm assuming so that has been no help. Is it true that an r33 gtr came with 245/45/17 on all four wheels. FYI I am thinking of going with the following sizes, which set do you think would be most appropriate for an everyday driver with the ocassional track day: -Front - 245/45/17, Rear - 255/40/17 OR -Front - 235/45/17, Rear - 245/45/17 OR Something completely different

As of 26/06/07 I have had the engine pulled apart. Found that piston 6 was missing a section so I decided to have it rebuilt. I was wanting to rebuild it back to the standard specification but this did not seem feasable as standard gtr pistons from nissan are over $2000. So I went with a set of oversized forged JE pistons. The motor is currently being rebuilt and will hopefully be finished by the end of the week. Total known costs to date: -Pistons , $1660 with rings inc -Labour to have block pulled apart, honning of all bores and pistons attached to original conrods and a gasket kit, $1000 -Engine removal $unknown -Engine reinstatement $unknown

I have done a bit of searching and found that all the rebuilds done on an rb26 are to beaf them up. What I want to know is what is invloved in rebuilding a standrad r33 gtr motor back to standard form. And roughly how much it would cost. Including labour and excluding labour. Has any one rebuilt their gtr back to standard.

Thanks, thats all I needed