SkudR33

I gotta agree with you on that one - those compression numbers are not too healthy!

Hahahah

Yeh may aswell just swap it over... then you can also rip apart the old one and find out exactly what your problem was! Good luck with it all.

Dude can I just ask did you have piston at tdc when you did the leakdown test? Did you also make sure the engine is at operating temperature. You do realise if the valves in the head are open it will give you a false reading... If you did do the test correctly, you gotta understand no engine will have 0% leak because an engine needs to allow crank case pressure to escape. Crankcase pressure travels to your dipstick, oil filler cap, pvc and any other head drains which may be present. On average most engines leak between 5-10% of the air which is compressed into the cylinder. You really need to have a gauge that tells you how much air is leaking out. If you find you are leaking more than 10% but below 20% it just means engine has some wear on it however once you start passing mid 20's it means you got a major problem. You need to redo the test and get the actual percentage of loss which is occurring... unfortunately if you did the test correctly and you have a 30% leak going through the cap and dipstick it means you got piston landing or ring issues...

I started playing it again after 3 years... can't get past rank gold nova1. I've noticed it's really random, I have games where I ace and then 10 minutes later I find myself anchoring. Alias is skudbrah

It sounds extreme right - I'd imagine they'd be smoke pouring out everywhere and it would be catastrophic!

Welcome dude - there's a wealth of knowledge on these forums.. make sure you use the search function regularly and if you still find yourself caught up do not hesitate to ask for advice!

I'd put my dollars on valve stem seals then cause your compression numbers aren't bad enough to be blowing oil out your exhaust... also note that if results are unchanged between wet/dry compression test it generally means rings are not your problem... sometimes valve seating can cause a drop in compression. That's another whole issue to worry about but should not result in burnt oil! Plus you just changed turbo and a little bit of shaft play shouldn't be causing any issues like what you're explaining... Dude one other thing, make sure your pcv isn't seized up... it really assists in lowering crank case pressure when the manifold is in vacuum. It's an easy thing to look at while you wait to do a leak down test!

If you blowing oil on deceleration, especially down them big ass hills it generally tends to lean towards blown turbo or valve stem seals... If blowing oil on cold start it could be cracked ringlanding or bad valve stem seals... If you blowing oil on hard acceleration it could be rings, ringlanding or turbo seals... It's honestly such a flamin mongrel to find the issue... Steps to resolve this: 1. Both dry and wet compression test. 2. Leakdown test. 3. Check turbo for shaft play. From my personal experiences, I had blue smoke on cold start and under high boost/rpm application. Lasted 12 months and my engine crapped itself- turned out I had a small hairline crack in the ringlanding which developed to a catastrophic crack. If you are from West Sydbey, I can refer you to the guy I used to work for - he has a fetish for jap cars!

I had same issue - they all rubbish not mention the fact they all start falling apart and coolant leaks out of the wicks... it's virtually impossible to find a decent kit that covers all the hoses you need to replace!

It's easy dude! Look up the m80 installation manual then work backwards to disconnect it all. If you learn how it all works you'll know how easy it is to remove...

Going out on a limb here... I had the exact same issue. Turned out I had a faulty injector. Test resistance in the injectors... look through my profile and you'll find a post I've written up on it. I had similar issues to you... car would sound like dog balls on idle and under high load I had a small misfire that I couldn't notice without looking at afr's

If you twist 9 and 46 it should bypass the ECU and it still retains the use of the A/C button on your console.... ive done the same thing to my car!

You gotta get somebody to have a proper look at it... if wiring to the original ecu has not been damaged (including interior and engine bay) it should run fine. I think it'd be very difficult for somebody to give you a solid answer online. Where you from? Maybe somebody close by can give you a hand!!!

I bought them of a club member, they were practically brand new. He had the original receipts and paperwork. He had bought them from a supplier in Perth who claimed they were flow matched within 2%. I got them cleaned and tested before I installed them. The spray pattern was awful and the injectors were not flow matched within 2% error like they promise. I seriously replaced them with a top feed setup a month after I had them installed!