roosterwfyu

what does this have to do with the inflation of prices of eggs in china?

yeah i replaced that part but the placve i went to suggested a n14 one which shared the same part number. when hot if i pull the plug it does increase the revs

did you ever solve this problem? what did you do? how did you fix it?

oh yeah i forgot the mention the car is horrible when its cold, acts like its retarded as all hell but improves when its warm, hpin a box had no idea why despite claiming to know everything even when it was on a dyno with consult plugged in

did you ever fix this? if so how? what did you do?

sorry, i havent been on in a while had so much going on. just saying, dont take your car to horse power in a box, i would honestly rather learn how to reach round wityh my head and eat the shister straight out of my ...... then ever go back to that nuff nuff. i asked him what the clicking was when you touch the accelerator.... he pulled a stupid face and said it wasnt good, just so everyone knows that was my vct solinoid, i unplugged this and car didnt change at all, so not sure if that is buggered or not. i have this problem where cruiing and feathering the throttle around 3000rpm it sounds like a rotary, i unplugged the brand new coolants temp sensor for ecu and it went away but then it sort of comes back just slightly, i also unplugged the o2 sensor and no change, i did unplug everything on their on ie one sensor at a time, car runs 100 octane from liberty which is 5% ethanol and no change or real difference between that and 98 at bp or mobil. this miss shall i call it at 3000rpm does this parked free reving but when i disconnect the ts it goes away. mad082, mr nuff nuff at hp in a box never gave me a print out or anything helpful despite paying 100 cash to put it on the dyno and dribble nonsense. all i know is it was really rich and my fuel pressure was 60 psi at 10psi and 38 at idle according to my rising rate adjustable fuel reg.

no idea whats wrong with this, took it to horse power in a box for no reason, put it on the dyno and was giving an air fuel ratio 17:1 which he said was lean and wasnt making sense, im like no its running rich, he put a new probe in ar was rich..... i tried to see why i have this miss that feels like spark plugs and i suggested it might be cas being retarded, then he argued with me, i left his shop and advanced the cas and my car ran soooooho much better now i have the tiniest miss and i want to advance it more but cbf its too wet here to work on the car, replaced the fpr with a drift and it still runs rich. its a standard tune anyone got any ideas? as tto why it runs rich, bov is blocked off no vac leaks healthy -18psi of vac

i just took the trim off, held the window with one hand and pried the arm out of the metal runner on the bottom of the window, pushed it up and put some big pieces of wood in, works great now no water

i tried that and nothing, pretty sure its the motor but i need the window up, sick of being cold and wet

Hi guys, new issue, the drivers side window wont go up, there is no relay or switch but when i connect 12v to the motor direct i still cant get the window up, there is about 2 cm of window poking out the door but i really want the window up. anyone experienced this before? anyone know how to force it up, i dont want to break the window is all

turns out the no sock on the fuel pump caused the filter to block up..... can you believe it, the fuel filter

your right there mate, put an after market gauge in, just a saas, took it for a spin and well, i couldn't focus on the gauge as everything was going on in the middle of the night, i managed to dutch out an entire street, there is a pic on fb of a blue van thing running from volcano smoke, same thing but a skyline, any way the gauge got up to about 10 psi before i had to divert my attention to everything else, maybe its r&r? a faulty actuator, who knows, does the r33 have a restrictor pill?

replaced the cam with a second hand one and snapped it...... put the old one in spent ages lining timing up, put a catch can on the wrong way (like who does this, HOW!) and it built up pressure and i ripped the hose off from the rocker covers to the catch can and now smoke is just pouring out the exhaust and the turbo was stuffed before so i just hope its the turbo seals and not valve seals or rings, compression tested the engine warm and there was pretty much no difference between hot and cold test. i might pull the turbo off today and see whats going on there, any one know if you can defiantly pull the turbo off without pulling the exhaust manifold off? as far as i know the turbo should be running stock boost, i am using the vac from the manifold to control the actuator although i cant get any boost higher than say 5-7psi without it playing up

really? 77 views and no answers? took the exhaust cam out front cap was all scourched so now i have to find a new one/2nd hand one and two bolts, the oil hole was blocked, i also may have broke a valve which i am praying to god i didnt not in the mood to unbolt a head.....

i only have the stock gauge atm, about to install an after market one now, standard 25 turbo i think, as far as i know the car cuts out as soon as it registers boost but i will confirm

if the actuator was buggered would it be really hard to try and pull the rod out? if it was stuck or seized then it would overboost and then the ecu would shut it down yeah?

sorry mate, just did a dry cold compression test and results were 145-150psi across five, however th third one back from the front of the motor was 135-145 put about 3ml of oil in and com back to 150 so rings but they are not that bad, i had a 32 rb20 with 110 on the 6th cylinder and 160 on the rest and drove fine. mods are as i am aware, turbo back 3 inch, front mount, pod, super spark coil packs, a turbo timer that counts down but doesnt turn the car off, a stereo that sounds horrible and a god ugly body kit. turbo has no oil in the compressor housing inlet, tiny bit on the outlet elbow, between 5mm shaft play back and fourth/in and out nothing up and down so to speak. i will now remove the carbon canister vac lines, run a boost gauge, and put a sort of dose pipe on the car to eliminate any boost/vac leaks around the afm. i will also put new hoses and clamps on the front mount pipes.

also the car takes about 30 seconds to start it just sits there kicking over but doesnt start and run for ages

Hi guys, new here, just got a r33 skyline but it has some little gremlins. so i will start with the main issue and if anyone is able to help it would be greatly appreciated so when i drive the car and accelerate hard the car misses, back fires and cuts out kind of like a boost/fuel cut but not so sevre.... i think, i can ease the power on slowly and even drive all the way through the rev range and hit some boost, if i baby it i can get around, there was a lot of black smoke recently but it has since gone, i will explain what i have done to the car to check/diagnose. firstly i replaced three suspect cooler pipe hoses and clamps, then i replaced all plugs with bcpr6ey plugs, this changed nothing, i then pulled the fuel pump and sender out as my fuel gauge was not working, i cleaned the float assembly and put it all back together, i did note r assume rather that i have a walbro type pump in there but it had no sock, again this changed nothing, my fuel gauge worked for 24 hours. i then purchased a drift fpr and gauge, i installed this and i culd only achieve 30psi with vac line off, with vac line on was the same 30 psi, i then put a second hand stock unit on and the car drives the same with the stsndard reg, drift reg and the second hand reg. two nights ago i discovered the cam keyway not the cas side keyway, was broken off, so i tried to line it up by eye and put it all back together but before i did i noticed my cas was fouling against the cam gear bolts, so i did some googling and didnt find anything excpt to put spacers betweent the cover and cas, so i did, i checked ignition timing and i was on the most right mark on the crank so i am to believe this is 30 deg of advanced timing, i backed the cas off as it was in full avance but all it did was run rough an make my turbo spool up, so i put it back, drove it to a mates house last night and had him do exactly what i did, this time i coulde ease the power on a little faster and the timing was on the second mark on the crank to the right, i then took it to a friends house around the corner and borrowed a afm and this changed nothing. a bit more about the car, the turbo is making a screaming noise all the time, it is still making boost vac lines are a mess. the last owner replaced the coil packs with brand new superspark, however one has a huge crack in the black gel plastic bit, so i put a yellow jacket in its place and no real change. second hand igniter, the coil loom has 3 joiners used for one of the coil packs plug, there are a lot of new connecters on the loom, there is a brand new afm on the car, i have blocked off the bov with a piece of tin can and some sealant hoping that might fix the issue, now it sounds like i have pidgeons screaming and flapping trying to escape. my dash temp sensor was not working, i replaced it with a new one now it reads hot 24/7 when car is running but when key is in on and engine is warm it reads half, dodgy sender? i am really lost for ideas here??? more problems, when ever i hit a bump i feel like i am drifting, the hicas light is on so i will assume its that, i will compression test the engine but no one i have spoken to thinks its hg related. i have googled and searched but found nothing, please help guys