jaik

Oh forgot to mention my offer is strictly for everything except the cams So you could probably sell them for 600-700 separately. Thanks, JK

I'll start by offering $1500 cash + a Brand new Dell Inspiron Laptop that is still sealed in the box. Paid $1409 for it last week. JK

What a dikn00bspanker thread! JK

i have a wheel nut welded to mine - makes it easier to remove JK

Folks, I have the following laptop forsale. It was purchased in error and now I really need to get rid of it. I upgraded the Memory, hard drive and optical drive. Here are the details: Dell Inspiron 1300 Intel® Pentium® M 735 Notebook E-VALUE CODE : N540818 ALL OF THE BELOW SPECS SELL ONLINE RIGHT NOW FOR $1419 PentiumM 735 1.7Ghz 2MB Cache 512MB DDR2 (1x512) 80GB 5400RPM Hard Drive 15.4" WideScreen DVD Dual Layer Burner Gigabit Lan, Intel 802.11G Wireless, 56k Modem WinXP, AntiVirus, Microsoft Works Deluxe Dell Carry Case 1 Year Onsite Warranty (363 days remaining) Keen to speak to any serious buyers. Will drop off anywhere in Metro area. Unable to demo as I wish to keep sealed - Dell paperwork provided from order. Chasing ~$1350ono Jai 0422 925 440

Can someone please advise the torque step settings for the flywheel bolts and crank bolt on a RB20 engine? Ive searched for a good hour on here and cant see them! Thanks! JK

The factory wiring is crimped in places - nothing unusual there. JK

My bolts arent factory - My car was converted to Manual in Japan. Im a big bloke - But they really arent being easy! JK

Gday Folks Im trying to remove my flywheel bolts but with no luck. Im using a 19mm socket over them and originally tried to remove it with a repco breaker bar but to no avail. So far Ive tried 2 different Rattle Guns and 2 different Compressors and had no luck what so ever. Ive hit the bolts with a hammer and still no go with the rattle guns. Right now ive got my front pipe bolted to the flywheel (pressure plate bolts) so that the flywheel wont rotate (stuck against the chassis rail) and still it wont budge. The car is only on ramps at the moment - do you think a metre long breaker bar would do the job if I got the car on a hoist? Cheers, JK

You could have broken the Pivot point perhaps? Ive got my box out at the moment and im putting in an Xtreme ChroMo Flywheel and Xtreme Clutch but Ive also purchased a Nismo Pivot Point too JK

Twins are cool! Im actually taking that muffler on and putting 2 straight pipes out the back shortly. Sik JK

Folks, Ive got a Nismo Braided Clutch Line kit - Part No 46211-Rs520 - Brand new unused still in Nismo Box. Its suitable for R32 RB20 It also comes with a brand new Nismo Clutch Bleeder Connector and all washers etc. $90ono Express Posted. Cheers, JK

Did you rub all the way back to metal on that paint job Hella? Cheers JK

Beep beep! JK

Hi, I have a RB20DET Flywheel, Standard Clutch (only 30,000km old), Pressure plate and clutch line (from master to slave) forsale. Chasing $200 JK

Yo, Im chasing a S13/A31 Solid Steering Shaft Spacer Any colour! Thanks, Jai

Theyre $83 new from nissan. I have a spare that hasnt snapped. Just taken out of my car. $40pp ?? JK

Check out my mate Brendans effort on his Brembos. In f**king Sane. http://www.ipixel.com.au/sillbeer/images/b...-all-silver.jpg http://www.sillbeer.com/2006/06/brembos-all-done.html http://www.sillbeer.com/2006/06/take-brake.html This is how he did it: http://www.sillbeer.com/2006/06/driveline-time.html JK

Im running the Just Jap ones. They rock. They even say Cefiro on them Never had an issue with them... love em! JK

Cheers guys - got it back in its home JK

What a timely thread discovery! I just pulled all my hicas stuff out of my cefiro as the previous Jap owner had put a lock bar in. He only put nuts on the ends of both hydrolic lines that use to go into the rear Hicas rack - meaning there would be an obvious build up of pressure at the rear end of the car as the fluid couldnt go in a cycle. Let it be said that nearly every seal in my main steering rack must be fked, as i go thru more power steering fluid than I do petrol. Im currently replacing my steering rack with a s13 or s15 rack, and I will most likely put a tranny oil cooler in and run the rear part of the pump to that. Im yet to comprehend what sort of piping and fittings i'll need to do this from reading above - but if someone can assit me that would be great. My idea is to have the rear output of the pump go to the cooler - using about 1m of hose, then from the cooler back to the HICAS resovior. But will this still have too much pressure going back into the resv? I dont want an explosion of fluid everywhere if I can help it! thanks! JK

I still am weary of sand and crap getting into my timing belt. JK

Hey, the names Jai K is my surname Anywho... Id never taken my box apart before, but by the way it was behaving it was definately input shaft bearing. Of course I dreaded the cost to fix, but I figured I had nothing to loose by taking it apart as if it was totally fked another box is only $500 away but I also pick up the experience of box repair for free Check my thread - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=124037 I replaced the bearing thats actually on the inside of the shaft. The one that sits in the casing on the shaft was in ok nick, but the bearing shop said I may aswell replace it since it was out. The small internal bearing cost $19 and the bigger one from the casing was $25. I got them from BSC on King Edward St in Osb Park (no 54 i think their shop is). My internal bearing has bulk play, and would have been enhanced by the clapped out spigot. The dimensions of this bearing was 26mm outside, 20mm inside, 20mm long. My factory bearing was 26mm outside, 22mm inside and 19mm long. The shaft dimentions are infact 26mm outside, 20 mm inside and 22mm long - so the other bearing allow alot of free play left to right - not good! JK

I noticed today that my spigot is infact in 2 pieces inside my crank - thanks to a very loose input shaft. The bearing that was originally inside my input shaft was clapped out bigtime, so a new beefier and longer bearing has been put in and all should be sweet. I just purchased the standard bushing from nissan but now im seriously contemplating getting a similar bearing to that of the one inside the input shaft as pictured above. Pity I just spent $20 on the standard bushing! JK

Ive just pulled my gearbox out and im replacing the Spigot anyways. $19 from nissan. I didnt get the roller bearing looking one as posted above - but I dont think its gunna matter a hell of a lot. JK