jaik

Hi Steve, I emailed trev during the week about getting 2 pairs of seats sent to Perth. Your post says shipping is $125/pair and I was hoping to save a few $$ by shipping 2 pairs. He said the best price he could do was $290! Do you think its possible that he meant $190 (which sounds more reasonable) - considering ordering 2 separate sets would only be $250. Cheers JK

The bottom one is the pressure switch for the aircon that goes into the receiver dryer. Some cefiros had an "active" speaker system so your second pick could be of some sort of amplifier. JK

PS nice new tail lights! King mod! JK

I got my spacers from Just Jap! 5 stud bolt ons for Cefiro. Hub centric also You should have done my kinda mod. Numberplate on the dashboard Now all you need is an intercooler! JK

Actually the paint code is unique. I pulled up my factory paint code on the PPG computer and it has all the exact mixes, ingredients etc to build the paint exactly the same as the factory! PPG have been standardizing for a long time! I just dont want your car to look gay with two different pearl whites! Peace Out Brother! PS I was there until 9! JK

It aint no Final K! Im Still only one in Aus!!! MUAHAHHA Did you match your paint? ie from the paint code? The side of the kit definately kicks out alot more than mine... do a drive by Siennas in Mt Lawley tonight around 7:30 so i can have a look bitch JK

For the sake of a $25k engine, $50 worth of oil isnt going to hurt ya to swap JK

If you want lawndigs - this is how you do it And if you want to show off then you do it like this JK

You wanker hahaha JK

What exactly do u want to know about coilovers?

I run 18x9.5 with a +40 offset and 265 tyres scrub on the inside of the wheel arch up the top. Tight fit though... fits uber nice http://sido-takushi.com/paintnpanel/finalk/Cefiro004.jpg JK

Right, tis about time you do this right Eppe Get some 300zx or any 4 pot nissan caliper & rotor for $300max, a set of decent pads for $100, some new brake fluid and put them in! $30 max for redrill of rotor. JK

On a bad note, the aircon stopped working again... I had the aircon button on, the engine idle went up but the compressor is now not turning on. So, now its different to my previous issues. My ECU is kicking around the passenger footwell at the moment... as Ive had wiring issues before... ie no ground signal making it to the fuel pump relay... but after pressing the aircon button and not having the ECU change the RPM or turn on the compressor i started applying pressure to the loom and the engine went up in RPM AND the compressor turned on. It ran ok till i stopped, got out, turned the car off, tried again and this time only the ECU makes the revs go up and no compressor. Its starting to get beyond a joke, especially with 38 degree days. GRRR it must be my wiring loom... so I have no idea what to do.... !!!! JK

Try unplugging the fan and running power straight from the battery to it. The bigger pin on the connector is the Positive. My fan wasnt working and I ran direct power to it and i found out mine is seized. JK

Looks good! Im still wrapped that Im the only Final K kitter in Oz JK

On a good note, the past 2 days the aircon has been running sweetly. The compressor sometimes is very audible from the cabin but generally not too bad. But I can really feel the compressor sucking soo much power off the motor, especially when I back of the throttle... it sounds like its slowing the motor down more than natural deceleration. Was thinking perhaps the compressor is actually quite hard to spin so thats why its pulling down the revs. It idles ok though... generally about 700RPM with the aircon on... which is a bit low... but its steady. JK

http://www.sido-takushi.com/misc/r32ecu There is a ZIP in there with the wiring. JK

I suspect its the switch... although I presume I'd have to release all the gas to remove and replace it. However the switch would probably be "on" the whole time there is gas in there otherwise it would never let the system start if it only let power thru once pressure would build up (cause it would never get the chance to!) Since I know the system should be good I may bypass the switch for a little bit for testing purposes. The fan may have blown a fuse but I dont know where it is... I will investigate it once I replace the fan if it doesnt power up. Looking at the diagram I linked above you are correct about it running per the water temp in the radiator. I hope that bit works or otherwise I may hook it up via a manual switch. Also, just about the ECU cutting when you accelerate, it would use the compressor if you have a steady constant throttle right? Oh and hows this for a joke now... sometimes my manual slider controls go funny... ie when the fan speed is set to off it actually runs in low... damn thing... I wish the Cefi had digital! JK

Id say positive and negative mate? JK

I have a Cefiro (presume the same RB20DET as the Laurel) and I can tell you that the R32 uses a more recent version of the RB20DET than the A31 (and possibly the C33). I know the wiring looms arent compatible because my car runs all the older type of plugs (square) where as the R32 runs the rounder plugs etc. I think my ignition system is the same as the R31 RB20DET. So it runs a much older ECU etc. perhaps this is why yours isnt working because it may be expecting different voltages etc JK

Well, the gremlins are definately lurking. Last night I unplugged the Pressure switch on the Receiver Dryer and plugged in a manual switch and the system powered up ok! I plugged the Pressure Switch back in and the system powered up ok again. The plugs look pretty dirty inside so Im not sure if they are making good contact. I took the car to the aircon place today and had the system filled up with the right amount of gas. But it doesnt appear to turn on all the time, so Im still skeptical about the Pressure Switch still functioning correctly. Im tempted to bridge the wiring but Id prefer to have the proper failsafe mechanism in place as I dont exactly want the system to build up too much pressure and pop. Ive since noticed my front thermo wont power on at all, and running 12v straight to it on the battery sees the fan turn about 1cm, but makes a big clicking noise, so I presume its stuffed. Ive since unplugged it permanantly. Also I noticed today that my normal operating temp of 80c went up to 100 running the aircon without the thermo On Another note, Under what conditions will the ECU turn off the airconditioning if using it in manual mode? Will it keep it on all the time or does it cut it at 100% Throttle? Thanks! JK

Yeah, so basically I shouldnt experience any sort of engine bay fire by bridging the wires I will give that a shot. Looking at this pic - http://www.sido-takushi.com/misc/r32ecu/aircon_manual.jpg Im not too proficient with reading electrical diagrams so Im trying to piece together what stage my system is at once i press AirCon with the Fan Running (on say 1 or 2 or 3 speed) and hearing the aircon door (Diagram: Intake Door Actuator?) opening up to let cool air in. JK

I got this PM from marcus32. So I was thinking should I somehow bridge the two wires at the pressure switch connector to see if she fires up? PM- hey this is a link i used for my AC it contains a wiring daigrams for RB20 i hope these help you out. Basically the ECU controls the AC via the AC relay as follows. The ECU monitors the state of the AC by pin 46 which gets earthed when the AC button is switch on. Once earthed the ECU then earths pin 9 (AC cut signal) which is the trigger for the AC relay and hence once earthed the relay switches on and provides power for the AC compressor. The AC relay trigger wire first passes through the pressure switch before terminating at pin 9 so if the pressure switch is open (not enough pressure) the compressor won't switch on despite pin 9 being earthed. If the AC relay is clicking when the AC button is pressed it would imply that the trigger side of the relay is working but if there is no voltage at the compressor you should look at the supply to the relay. The relay gets its supply from a 10A fuse which I believe is with the main fuse block inside the car (in the R32s at least). If there is power up to pin 3 or 5 on the AC relay (should be pin 3) when the key is switched to ACC you should then check continuity between the other pin and the wire to the compressor. http://www.skylinegts.co.uk/R32-Fuses.htm (english translation of fuse block) This was all sent to me by BH_SLO32 very helpful guy indeed knows alot about the AC system so full credit to him for all this info. once again let me know if this was helpful.

I dont have the fuse problem... all my fuses are OK... I just have no power going to anything! JK

I lost skin on my Cefiro... prick of a thing... just had to yank on it real damn hard. Perhaps wear gardening gloves to avoid this issue! Obviously only yank once you have removed all the clamps. I found that the top hose came off easier than the bottom, so do that one first, and then try to rotate the old filter and hose on the solid line that runs to the underbody. Rotation seems to free it up alot easier. JK