jaik

Ive got a spreadsheet with all my costings on it. My car lands monday-week so once I pay all my duties and have it complied then I will let you know. Im budgeting on $10k and thats with extra mods purchased locally. JK

R34 seat mounts are different to R33. If the Rail is new it should have a Bride Sticker on it listing what model car it suits. If it suits R33, R32 etc I will take it for your $170. Can you confirm your model by referencing the Product sticker on the rail? Thanks, Jai

Either way, your studs go thru a piece of round metal and then into your wheels. Might be a factory rotor, might be a spacer. Aslong as the spacers are centric (if thats the right word) and have the lip around the centre hole to sit nicely on std hub and also *into* the wheel then I dont see any issue with it. JK

Heres 2 pics of the dodgy bonnet I did. - http://www.innaloo.net/~jai/silvia/bonnet.jpg - http://dgenr8.iinet.net.au/silvia/battle_bonnet.jpg Basically it was illegal and I did consult the pits in WA about it. I did cut out part of the bonnet support, so the bonnet was a bit floppy. And they said the size of that vent would have been fine IF i ducted the vent soley to the radiator core. The Radiator cap and hoses could not be visible from the top of the vent, so it would have had to be totally sealed. But despite the main support being cut out, if I had strengthened around the vent to give it more rigidity it would have also been ok. The guys at the Pits discussed this with collegues for over an hour! Also I will note, that from testing using the standard plastic intercooler plumbing on the CA18 Motor, with the vented bonnet the plastic was very cool, if not cold compared to the other intercooler plumbing in the car. With a normal bonnet on it was stinking hot. And yes, you could see a shitload of hot air escaping out of it. I made the vent with an angle grinder and alot of glass and bog. It was a weekend job. Not sure if my Cefi is going to see the same treatment though JK

Shit with all that hassle I would have got bolt on spacers that atleast convert you to 5 stud ? (bolt on to factory 4 studs - 5 studs for the wheels) JK

- Did you have to chop much of the front bar up to fit the GTR cooler? I have one to put in and I was hoping to not have to chop any of the plastic up, or go to the other extreme and chop as much out as possible. - I was looking at installing Buddy Club P1s 17x8 - why wouldnt they fit? Ive got Teins and was getting some because they have an awesome offset in 4 stud so they clear 4 pot brakes. I dont see why they would rub as ive seen 17x8 on S13 before. - I bought a whole bunch of spare parts with my car can got them put in the boot. Paid a decent rate on a whole spare front end. JK

How about we just let the people who have actually done a RB conversion speak instead of people who havent sprouting off their own beliefs... (ie what gearbox bolts up) JK

A tad excessive JK

Yes ND4SPD still exists. It is being repaired and is nearly back on the road apparantly. RumourMill + + JK

Now if only all importers took photos of that clarity.... JK

Got the standard pipe that goes across the motor to bolt that BOV onto? JK

You should find that the front bumper support bar should have holes in just the right area. I know the S13s have holes that are perfect for putting those sorts of ducts in. JK

I just read that the Cefiro RB20 has a different CAS and ECU to the R32. Not sure though. I will compare with my mates 32 when my car arrives. JK

Im doing the same to mine. Basically at the front you can either get your rotors redrilled to 4 stud and put themn on along with the 4 pot caliper (all bolts up fine) or grab the front suspension parts like hub etc from an S14. JK

Why dont people get photos before posting shit forsale? Its common sense. JK

That is not good news! Did you compare the physicaly dimensions of the standard cams and the GTR cams? Both had issues with the inlet cams... very interesting... Now im very weary of upgrading my cams, or atleast the Inlet cam (worth the hassle just putting in the exhaust one?) Any further info you can provide us with? Thanks JK

R34 is different to the rest of the R series bolt ups for the seat rails. I require a Bride Rail for the Drivers Side for R32/A31 Are you saying its $250 for a COPY of the bride rail? A Bride rail is $160 from a local online shop. How much did you pay for yours, and was it new or s/h? JK

Im a fan of the projector headlights, no grille and late model tail lights as a nice overall combo. I dont think I like the chrome grille much. JK

Dude, the car was sold like years ago. JK

My car has had the steering pump replaced in J - the yard I bought it from actually told me and sent me photos You will need to remove that 108KMPH warning bell from behind the dash - or unplug it etc JK

What type of bride seat? Ive got a BRIX on my passenger side with rails. I might be looking to get rid of it If i cant mount it on the drivers side easily. JK

I plan to immediately do timing belt, cams, sprockets, water pump, o2 sensor, ecu water temp sensor, fuel pump, gtr injectors, coilovers, z32 brakes etc so I guess even though its been documented before I may aswell do it again. Who knows, someone might find it useful some day. JK

Yeah dont worry, I plan on documenting EVERYTHING I do on the car to help the rest of the new Cefiro owners. Every mod I do, every factory thing I butcher, everything will be on my website. Lots of pics too! I might even get game and post all the microfiche for the A31 series aswell. JK

Well, you never know. I know that If I was to do it locally I would put a 25 box in. But yes, its 99% guaranteed to be a RB20 box. I am looking at 2 way Mechs for the backend already. JK

I would advise consulting nissan on parts. They have all the diagrams for all the parts that sit between the crank and the gearbox, and will be able to tell you which parts are different, and which parts you will need. Funnily enough theyre more than happy to help you sus out which parts you need. JK