kudos.motorsports

Email sent

Guys the R32, R33, A31 & C33 stock turbos will all accept this dump pipe, as will the HKS GT series. To install on the Factory item you will require a small exhaust outlet/waste gate chamber sperator, which is included when new. wildr33gtst if you look at the end that attaches to the exhaust housing of the turbo you will either see a flat surface with two small screws or this seperator attached with allen key headed bolts. If this adaptor is not attached then it was previously attached to a GT series turbo and will require a new seperator to be install on a factory unit.

Car is SOLD! however the rims were seperated and are now for sale.

PM Sent consider them SOLD

Michael bog is a term referring to body filler. We bastardize the English language quite server.

Is it a 15yr old import, or SEVS? Either way I would contact DOTARS on 1800 815 272 and enquire about the situation. Have you checked to see it the vehicle still has the import approval with it? If so it will make your situation so much easier to get a definitive answer.

Pics are up, to have a look at more head over to http://kudosmotorsports.com/personal/R33/new

If have a look in our R33 product thread you will see the clear East Bear Sports units we stock, the url is: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=99227

This vehicle now sits on a set of 19" Work Vs rims and sports a 3" Blitz NUR exhaust system. So not only does it look hot but also sounds the part.

Drift King: S14 and R33 GTS25-t rims are one in the same. So we they will fit.

PM Sent

If when your in town next time the car still hasn't been tuned it's a definate

Dr_Drift do you tune Power FCs? If so I will let a friend know as he is wanting to get his cefiro done. He is based in Nerang, so all well he would take a free slot on Monday.

No goods imported through international companies are exempt from import charges (stamp duties or GST) no matter what the cost. If the item is subjected to a customs bill then the following will occur: less the AUD$1000 you will be charged 20% off the invoice when you collect the item from the post office. You will receive a parcel collection notice. However if the package is above $1000 will need to formally declare the products and fill in a serious looking document. However you can also pay a customs broker do this for you, approximately $100. You will receive a letter via resisted post. The cost is calculated according to the conversion rate on the invoice date. These costs just come with the territory, alway budget for the extra 20% but if you’re not hit with a customs bill then go buy a carton of piss. Please also be aware that that it is illegal for a business to make a fake invoice (removed items, reduced costs & marked as a gift) for import purposes. Doing this is a criminal offence and the federal government can charge you. If you are charged import costs remember it is not the fault/responsibility of the company you purchased the goods from. They usually have a disclaimer when importing informing you of the potential charges, so don't be surprised if you are get a bill.

I don't mind ... the wheels

My vote is for an R33 GTR. Don't get me wrong I wouldn't love to have an R32 GTR but they are getting a little old and maintenance and repairs cannot be done at VL commodore prices. The R33 is a newer, better engineered car plus they are sexy as hell.

Hi Stan, If you are serious about the car remaining an auto I would recommend you look down the path of a piggy back system such as the Greddy E-Manage Ultimate. This particular unit is a fairly new release however the previous E-Manage can be found in some serious high output cars. In all honesty the E-Manage & E-Manage Ultimate in particular are as good as a full aftermarket ECU. The new model has a few features that even items such as a Power FC don't have such as the ability to be easily switch between to tuning maps e.g. cruising (fuel saving) & power via an externally located dim switch and support for automatic transmissions as the factory ECU still remains. If you desire any further details don't hesitate to ask buddy. Andrew

To anyone interested this will also suit R32, A31, C33.

Guys a 1.5-way diff is still a 2-way diff. They still lock in both acceleration & deceleration hence the definition of a 2-way. A 1.5 way differs in the bias it has in both plans therefore enables different lock up rates during the two directional forces. The 1.5-way distributes positive lock stronger under acceleration than when decelerating. Therefore you under acceleration you there is no difference, so yes you will still get the clonking of the diff and your tyres chirping as you do a u-turn/tight turn. If you are after a streetable diff stick with a 1-way setup, positive lock only. Only consider a 2-way (both 1.5way & 2-way) if you’re going to get a serious diff about track work. They are extremely predictable while both accelerating and decelerating then go a 2-way. I know some people may disagree but from my experience a 2-way diff is great for track, both drift & circuit. However some people will say a 1.5-way is more suited to a pure circuit car, it’s personal choice. That said if you have a FWD vehicle, or 4WD (GTR owners). You really don't want to have the front wheels fully locked with decelerating, it can get a little hairy trying to steer. In this application a 1.5-way is a very good compromise. I hope that makes sense to most of you.

Sold Out! Please remove

... No more needs to be said

If you use the guide I have above, the HCR33 would mean an R33 with an RB20 and HICAS. If it's a turbo model then they are advertised the model code wrong. Both an R33 GTS25 & GTS25-t should have the chassis code of ECR33.

I know this is slightly off topic, but to anyone interested in this group buy but do not know whether to go a 1.5-way or 2-way. Without going into detail I personally recommend in a RWD situation go a 2-way while in a FWD go a 1.5-way. If you need details feel free to PM me. I cannot talk about comparing brand performance as I have only ever owned a Kaaz 2-way. I also must state that Kaaz and Cusco supply a majority of racing teams throughout Japan. But that said I cannot see TRD or Mugen using a Nismo diff. I think that’s enough said. Great price & good luck with the group buy.

The Skyline Chassis Break Down basics (For R31, R32, R33, R34) 1: Engine Type (F = CA18, H = RB20, E = RB25 & B = RB26) 2: Attessa Equipped (N) 3: HICAS Equipped ( C ) (R31 - R33. For whatever reason R34s do not specify HICAS in the VIN No) 4: Model (R32, R33 & R34) therefore you can deduct the following: FR32: An R32 with an CA18 HR32: An R32 with an RB20 HCR32: An R32 with an RB20 & HICAS ER33: An R33 with an RB20 ER34: R34 with an RB25 BNCR33: R33 with an RB26, Attessa & HICAS (GTR) This said the R32 & R34 GTR are not stamped with the HICAS symbol however are equipped and are often referred to with it. I hope that answers more questions then it creates.

That's definitely a factory grill; the one on my girlfriend’s car is exactly the same.