inmaniac

Hey all. Been a very long time since I posted here but I wanted to share some info in case it is useful. I've learnt so much on SAU so I need to pay it back! I recently blew the motor in my R33 - not sure what happened, maybe just age and stress, but it exploded the piston and rod in cylinder 5 very good. In the process it also bent a valve and caused some other damage. In my situation, I decided I would just hunt down a long motor and swap it in. I managed to find a NEO motor for a good price and decided to have a crack. It turned out to be pretty straightforward and runs great. The old motor. I didn't place the rod like this, when I took off the sump it greeted me NEO waiting to go in There's been a bit of discussion that I've found in a few threads in this forum about what you need to do to get a NEO motor into an R33, and specifically if you were going to use the R33 (in my case a series 2) intake and exhaust manifolds. I'm going to list here what I did to get this to work. Hint: it wasn't much. HERE IS WHAT I DID TO GET A NEO MOTOR IN MY R33 USING THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST FROM A SERIES 2 MOTOR: You must swap the VCT Solenoid plug to the "New Nissan" style. I got mine from EFI Solutions here. Old plug won't fit the NEO solenoid New plug was straightforward to wire. Pro tip: make sure you get the right crimp tool (you need one that does non insulated crimps) You need to swap the CAS wiring if you have the old style metal-cased CAS. (I was lucky, as I have a 40th anniversary R33, my CAS is the same as the NEO CAS, so no change needed). My understanding is the wiring is reversed, but check yourself. I used all accessories from the S2 motor. All brackets fit without modification. I used the S2 Harmonic Balancer, as it has a 2-rib design which matches the power steering pump pulley from the S2 I swapped the entire intake. On the head there are 2 studs for the intake manifold, 1 on either end, to mount the intake along with the bolts. I used the S2 studs as they match the manifold. The ones in the NEO weren't long enough. I was informed that the NEO head has smaller ports. When I did a direct comparison, the difference was basically negligible, and the intake gasket part number is the same between S2 and NEO, so it can't be that different. Nonetheless I did some very slight porting with a die grinder and I haven't noticed an issue. I swapped the exhaust manifold, turbo, etc and it was a direct swap. I added NEO Splitfire Coilpacks - these mount differently than S2 so I couldn't reuse my originals ones, in the NEO they mount directly to the head and not via brackets as seen in the S2. I used my S2 flywheel but they are the same as NEO I swapped to my S2 valve and valley covers, they were a direct swap. This wasn't a must-have. I used the timing belt cover and back plate from the S2 motor On the NEO, the timing belt back plate has a hose that you don't need. Although not a must-do, I swapped to my S2 back plate and cover. I used the S2 thermostat housing The NEO housing is a smaller diameter and overall different dimensions. You could use it find but would need to find the right hose. I simply swapped to S2 and it was bolt on. All cooling and vacuum hoses swapped over without modification Added S2 engine mount brackets These are the same as NEO but new motor didn't come with them. I think this is everything really. There honestly wasn't much to it, when I got everything plumbed it fired up without issue and without touching tune. The biggest change for me was a VCT plug which was nothing, then it was just little bits to make sure it all goes together nicely. As for the end result, you can see a comparison below along with some pics. I did all of this in my driveway basically solo Old motor, RB25DET S2, 238xxx kms. ARP Studs, Cometic HG, Kelford Springs, Hypergear G3 21U, E85 - 300.4 rwkw New motor, RB25DET NEO, 250xxx kms, ARP studs, Hypergear G3 21U, E85 - 310.8 rwkw It wasn't fun in a cold a dusty driveway covered by bunnings gazebos New motor coming together. New water pump, pulleys and belt Motor in the car I hope this provides some useful info and helps some of you. Cheers. Josh.

Ok I clutched and found a GTR, but I need a 4-Door R34. SURELY someone owns a 34 sedan here who wants to make some easy $ ? If your car is clean I'll offer $350 for the day in Kiama. You drive. 5 hours max and <100km once in Kiama. PM me!

Hey guys. I haven't posted for a long time and one of those reasons is 'cause I've been focused on a lot of things IRL including getting hitched! As part of the planning, my fiance and I are talking about wedding cars and although cheesy to some, I just can't look past getting a nice GTR for my own wedding car, and I would also like a 4-door R34 for my groomsmen. With this in mind, here is what I am after: For both of the following cars here are the details: Location: Kiama, NSW (90mins south of Sydney) Date: Friday March 26th, 2021 Approx start time of duties: 1pm Approx finish time of duties: 6pm Total expected kms travelled on duty: <100km CARS (WITH DRIVERS) WE'RE AFTER: R34 GTR (any variant) Preferably Blue, White or Black (preference in that order) MUST be in great condition. Any mods are fine but no stickers/vinyls. Bonus points for 2-step R34 4-Door (any variant, turbo, NA, auto, doesn't matter) Preferably White or Black MUST be in great condition. Any mods are find but no stickers/vinyls. Bonus points for turbo but not necessary. Scope of the gig: You drive your car, pick up Groom (if GTR) or groomsmen (if GTT) and take from accommodation to wedding location in Kiama. You then drive to multiple photo destinations after the wedding before dropping us off in Kiama. Total time is 5hrs max and less than 100km driven. I know there are pro companies our there that do this thing but I'm after specific cars and I wanted to reach out to the community first. I'm reliable and looking to hire reliable people. Happy to pay cash to the right people. If anyone knows someone who might be able to help me please link! Thank you all very much :D

Wanted to add some more data to this thread for anyone who searches (as I just did) looking for economy figures in e85. R33 GTST (series 2) @ 300rwkw I get 350-400km to a tank on P98 180-210km to a tank on E85 Both are city driving in Sydney (slow as fk) so I’d assume you’d get more kms anywhere else. AFRs are fine (not rich on cruise, low load)

You have no idea how close I am to selling mine off to get this thing xD Hope it goes to a good home mate.

I thought my last break between updates was long. Here we are at almost a year. Jesus... A lot has actually gone on with the car, too much for me to write at 2am. So hopefully I'll update this shortly. What I will update for now to get me started is - I bought new wheels! I actually bought these a while ago but I went through quite a lengthy battle with the seller of these wheels, which leads me to this statement: DO NOT BUY ANYTHING FROM OZZY TYRES! There's such a long, convoluted story that resulted in 3 months of pain. So rather than writing that whole thing out, let me just say that when I went to jump in my car after getting the new wheels installed (XXR 527 equivalents in Chromium Black, 18 x 8.75 +20) they ended up being the WRONG COLOUR with the WRONG OFFSET on the WRONG RUBBER. Ozzy Tyres only offered me a refund of the price difference of the tyres. They refused to replace the wheels to the correct ones. I went to the extent of contacting the owner, pleading with them to fix it, I then got Fair Trading involved who tried to essentially mediate between us, but those guys are all bark and no bite. When I showed Ozzy Tyres that the wrong offset wheels had actually rubbed on my front calipers they finally caved in replacing those, but then refused to fix the rears!? Again I was speaking to Fair Trading but the only action they offered was referring me to Legal Aid to pursue legal action. It was at this stage I gave up as two rims just wasn't worth the effort. To then fix my situation, I ordered 2 x XXR 527s online in the right offset to match the replaced fronts, however, the colour was slightly off. Therefore I got myself some satin black paint and did a garage job. They didn't end up too bad. So yeah, that's the wheel update. I'm actually really happy with the final result, however, it cost about 50% more than it should have and put me through months of misery. Again, let me repeat, DO NOT DO BUSINESS WITH OZZY TYRES! I'll be back soon with more (fun) updates Attached before and after photos.

Not to hijack thread, but I have the exact turbo that I never used if anyone wants to buy it xD Brand new still in plastic! $100 take it off my hands.

Hey guys, hope you’re all good. I have an obnoxious sounding vacuum leak somewhere under my throttle body. It’s very bad and throws out the car terribly, so it’s off the road and I’m addressing ASAP. There is no issue around the TB itself and I don’t see any kind of issue around the fuel rail or injector seats, so I’m assuming it may actually be either the upper plenum gasket, the lower inlet manifold gasket, or perhaps an idle control hose underneath the manifold somewhere. To the point of my thread - if I can not locate any obvious leak, I will be pulling off the intake to replace the gaskets. Should I get so far as to pulling off the lower intake, I was just wondering if anyone had tips or advice to share? Specifically regarding how and what to disconnect in regards to coolant hoses, vacuum hoses, etc, and if there are any tricks to any of the bolts? Ive searched extensively on this topic but most threads only cover the upper plenum and I’m looking for any general helpful tips to removing the whole thing. So far my plan is to remove the TB, the fuel rail, then upper plenum - raise the front of the car up and just see what I can attack from the bottom. Assume that’s the best method? Thanks in advance!

And I've done my fork lol - so there you go.

Re-reading the OP makes the written-off thing extra funny. Still, pretty car.

I own a silver R33 S2 Nice choice. As for what you're after.... Bone Stock: Extremely hard to find. 100-150km: You *might* find something in this range, but 90% of cars that are have had their odometer tampered with. If you can find the combo you're looking for expect it to cost anywhere from $9k - $16k pending condition

Asking questions is fine mate - but as a rule of thumb (and life) try applying some logic, and doing the first and most rudimentary steps first. Your question contained no substance, and basically zero effort was put in by you. Did you even look at your headlight? Did you try and take the bulb out? If you couldn't do that, why are you asking in the first place? Not trying to be a dick mate, people are willing to help if you at least try to help yourself.

Sorry I have to bail - please remove me from the list. My car wont be ready

I got one for you mate. $50 come take it. Located 2161

Try the search bar chief. Something tells me this might have been covered before...

Nope, Sydney. As I said, take some pics, I’m sure we can remote assist. It wasn’t as hard as I thought it would be when I did it.

Not work you're describing. If a fuse blew the issue wouldn't be intermittent.

Then it's not your alternator. If a dead alternator caused the engine to stop then the battery power would be drained. You wouldn't be able to start it back up. GTSBoy noted many things to check. Start there as I reckon he's on the money. As a side, I had a similar issue with intermittent stalling out of nowhere. After some trial and error I narrowed it down to my fuel pump relay - it's rare for these to die but it happens. I replaced mine and I was sweet, no more problems.

Shouldn't use a knock-off for something so important, such as an item related to fuel delivery. Trust me.. I only speak from experience

Do something right the first time or pay the price. See my thread in the sig. No - this kit is good for nothing but the bin.

I took a different approach. (not saying mine is better, because it looks like other ways could be more efficient) I removed the throttle body and fuel rail, then attacked all bolts underneath with a ratchet spanner. I didn't remove fuel filter or anything on the strut side of the manifold. If I can do it with my dough boy hands I'm sure you can do it You said you tried with a ratchet spanner and couldn't move it? Did you get the TB and fuel rail out of the way? Show us a couple pics so we can see how you're attacking it.

Do things right the first time dude - we all tried to tell you! I have that brand new ebay turbo sitting here if you want a quick replacement $200 come get it.

I really am cloning your build aren't I man... This is exactly what I wanted to do, but was scared of any adverse reaction to the car by binning! Now my sensor sits at the top of the strut just hanging out LOL. Going to remove my dampener and place here, wish me luck

Just responding to this - @Ben C34 my dampener is 100% on the return, which is why I responded as such If of any interest, it's a '98 R33 GTST

Whichever side the fuel filter is on. Order goes like this: Fuel Pump > Fuel Filter > Fuel Rail > FPR > Dampener > Fuel Tank