xhxr6t

Taping trick worked perfectly for me! After finally finding the factory hose with restrictor in it for 7psi, once the car was hitting 7psi, was having massive amounts of missfire which wasn't there under lower boost. Pulled the coils out, clear arcing signs on the side of the coil (no cracks though). Gave them a tape up, and now it happily pulls right through! Hopefully it lasts!

bump, still chasing one.

Hey, have you got the the boost solenoid setup? im after the line from the intercooler piping towards the wastegate / boost solenoid, it has a red stripe on it as it has a restrictor in it to allow the 7psi 2nd stage.

xh / el / ef motor in an xh

Hey, As in the topic I'm chasing the factory line that goes from the intercooler piping towards the boost solenoid / waste gate. It has a red stripe on it as if has a restrictor in it to allow for the 7psi 2nd stage boost. If eastern suburbs melb is possible I can pick it up,, otherwise looking at postage. Thanks

Something a little differnt for you guys.

Hey, As the title states I'm after and 95 gtst ecu. I'm unsure if they are different from s2, so I'd rather be safe and get a 95 model one, located in eatern suburns VIc, willing to pay post for the right price. Thanks, Stuart

Does no one ever just give a simple answer on forums any more? Easier to just be a smart ass? Least there are still helpful people floating around. Thankyou!

Hey, Before I get jumped on I have searched and read every clutch related thread I can find, and I know I'm going to get the usual NC / Jim berry info. I had a few questions I hope people could give there thoughts on. Firstly 1995 r33 gtst Pull or Push clutch? I have read the s2 changed to pull? but also read all gtsts are push. Now as for the clutch it's my girlfriends car driven daily, has the usual basic mods and will never see much over 200rwkw. What do you suggest? I spoke to NPC about their 10" organic option, but for $800 compared to $350 for somthing like an excedy HD is it worth the money if its not going to make big power? Anyone that has a extreme / excedy HD how much heavier is it over stock, as she battles the Monash daily. Thanks in advance.

Double post

s2 boot / spoiler, s1 bonnet and s1 passenger headlight still for sale. Make an offer just want it gone!

Hey, After a r33 drivers seat belt with the little arm that swings in / out. Hopes this makes some sort of sense... East side of melbourne or happy to pay postage. Thanks.

how many k's has the clutch done? and i assume flywheel was machined when it was installed?

Bump

bump S2 boot and spoiler, s1 bonnet and passenger headlight still for sale. Want them gone! make an offer

WHeels, s2 font bar, s2 indicators / flog lights and drivers headlight sold Boot with s2 spolier, passenger headlight and s1 Bonnet still for sale!

Hey, Clearing out the spare parts I have aquired during the build of my girlfriends r33. Located in Ringwood Vic White s2 boot and spoiler, Few chips in the paint which can be seen in pics. spoiler in perfect condition $50 S1 Drivers Headlight in good condition no broken clips $90 S1 Passenger Headlight slight crack on the black edge, 1 borken clip and crack in top mount ( repairable) $40 url=http://s1214.photobucket.com/user/xhxr6/media/20130924_121930_zps3c33c8e2.jpg.html][/url] White s1 bonnet 2 chips in paint $75 White s2 front bar, Scratches in the front, dint on passenger side $40 S2 front bar indicators / fog lights covers missing $50 for both Standard gtst rims. 2 tyres just rwc 2 tyres stuffed. Rims in decent condition need a good clean, $100 Will do a deal for multiple items.

Thanks for a reply! I had been think I should have done that, I doubt the guy doing the roady knows anything about hicas. I've looked into this a bit more and I think I'm getting somewhere. I've read that in diagnosis mode the rear wheels should scroll from left to right continuously, But I have had a mate look and never seen them move. Which would explain the rear main sensor as it cannot see it moving, Which brings me to think that either , A, the hicas motor has died, or B, the computer has died. So, I’ll put it back into diag mode tonight and meter the plug for the motor and see what I can see, hopefully that will tell me whats faulty!

bump

Any ideas? I pulled off all plugs on the hicas unit and cleaned with contact cleaner, un plugged the main unit and cleaned that connector but still getting the same faults. I was wondering if it could be the hicas computer? as it had been removed and was just sitting next to the battery not mounted when i purchased the car.

It seems to be fixed!!! Drove it twice on the weekend without a single cut out! Thanks everyone!!!

Hey, Before I get flammed I have done a lot of searching and reading over the last few weeks about this. I just purchased a 95 gtst and the hicas light is allways on. I have done the diagnosis and has come up with; 24 Rear main sensor input not present 32 (Auto) Inhibititor switch input not present(Manual) Neutral switch input not present I had the car on a hoist on the weekend, and looked over the hicas unit hoping to see a plug un done but had no luck. The manual neutral switch input not present I have not looked at yet as I did the diagnosis after having it on the hoist. But im assuming there would be a plug on the gearbox with a loom heaing towards engine bay (not through the cab) which is hopefully un plugged. I also noticed yesterday after following the car on the road, its crabbing. I was planning on just cutting the wire for the light and putting a lock bar in, But I have roady booked in for friday so i cannot use a lock bar. Any tips on clearing these two alarms? and stop the crabbing? cheers!

Forget it, its when your keys are in and door is open

Hey, Installing a head unit in the 95 gtst i recently purchased. The constant power was not live, so I found a fuse which had blown under the steering column fuse box. When i replaced it I now have power for my head unit, but a beeping started under the dash. I have chased to to the unit in the pictures. Looks like it heads into the factory loom that hasn't been pulled apart much, So I'm thinking its a factory item. For now I have unplugged it, but would be good to know what its for. I've looked for wiring diagrams but cannot find any apart from engine management diagrams. Thanks

In my thread someone told me to re solder the AFM. I did this, and took it for a 25 min drive and didn't miss a beat. I'm still not completely convinced that it could be the fix, but I'm happy to be proven wrong, and I hope I am!