itbmils

if the head is off - you should do it now - if you have the $$ you will not need to revisit the head if (when) you go for additional power upgrades

get your self an RB26DETT - limiting it back down to 350hp will be easy sorry dude - could not resist NB - I obviously have NO idea about how to answer the question

I've just had this done on my R32 GTR - so I expect it will be more than a couple of hundred $$ steam seals will be that much

I agree with RB240av and clayoth better flow = more power, more efficiently (free kilowatts so to speak) the amount of power an engine can develop is dependent on the mass of air it can breathe per unit of time – a simple mathematical fact of life for an engine builder. I have seen (or read about) up to 30% gains when porting the RB25 head, and I'd think it would be worth while no matter what the boost level (IMHO) Modern heads may be good - but they are still mass manufactured and include castings and dags. At a minimum you should look at port matching, a polish up of the combustion chambers (for a cleaner burn) and a polish up of the inlet and exhaust valve bowls. Keep in mind you may also need to replace valve seats and seam seals at the same time (if you are not doing so already) get it tidied up - you know you should

R32 GTR – just had engine rebuild done with ... R34 N1s Tomei adj CAM gears Apexi PFC Apexi EBC Forged Pistons (Weisco) N1 bearings ARP rod and stud bolts HKS style dumps 3” catless exhaust Head work N1 Water N1 Oil Tomei fuel pump Tomei head gasket SX fuel regulator std injecotrs (bugger) std FMIC (bugger again) std AFMs (yes - I know - I know) currently seeing ~300awkw (~400hp) @ 18psi will add Tomei poncams + 700cc injectors + Z32 AFMs and aim for a safe 350awkw

do you know the offset yet ?

Hey Skorj I have a similar output on my R32 GTR and I'm running R34 N1s (292awkw and 302rwkw) with PFC and a full engine rebuild. I'm only running 1.2bar (18psi) – which is the safe limit of the N1s so I'm told I do not have 700cc injectors or 80mm AFMs, but I do have a Tomei fuel pump and SX fuel regulator, and I have done a port and polish of the head. My std injectors limit my output at this point – and can hit 100% duty cycle at the top of 3rd gear (no flames pls – I'm getting bigger injectirs – OK) I also have 3.5" catless exhaust with split (HKS style) dumps My next power upgrade will be RB25 AFMs Apexi 80mm suction kit 700cc sard injectors Tomei poncams An I expect to get 350awkw – easy I ?may? Also include a bigger FMIC just to be on the safe side. AND – no it's not laggy AT ALL !!!

can the PFC code be updated (flashed) ? anyone tried a warranty claim ?

already have grounding kit - and new IR plugs - and I have had them cleaned. Not sure on temp rateing tho - will check that

just not FAT enough for me - 300awkw is a LOT - yes

interesting - I've herd that once you fit the cams - you don't need/use the gears (set them back to zero) would be interested in cams for R32 GTR - if you can match Nengun

here's a pic of my R32 GTR with a set of ROH Drift Rs these are only 17" - but it gives you the idea

cool getting the impression that a purchase from Jamex with local install is the way to go thanks for your help - will try and scrape together the $$ in the next week or so

Hey SK what did I say – you sound offended !!! don't get me wrong - I do plan to buy the full kit - all I wanted to know I suppose is if I buy the same whiteline part numbers from a different source - is that the same as this group buy. I thought the only thing you had altered from the std whiteline kit where the socks - which I'm more than happy to get from you (Jamex) So - does this mean that whiteline part number 120330 and 120340 are Bilstein shocks anyway Also – if Jamex need to recoup the engineering effort back for you – that's fine with me too – I'm a team player – and I'm happy to pay a little more to get the right solution just doing some checking – yes ?

Hey SK couple of quick questions on the whiteline package GB 1: can I use whiteline shocks instead of the Bilsteins- and how do they compaire 2: can I use the GB to get all the whiteline stuff without the shocks ? Lastly – it looks like I can get the Whiteline stuff locally (in Brisbane) from my usual mechanic (whom I have given more than $15K to over the last 12 months BTW) at about the same prices you are getting from your GB. If there is a bug difference between the Bilstein and the whiteline shocks, can I just get the shocks. I assume YOU need to play with the valving tho – right ? Let me know – when you can

I get this noise too in my R32 GTR but only when driving with my wife

Guys I installed the Tomei fuel pump in my 300awkw R32 GTR - and it works fine. Installed an SX regulator at the same time tho it's a direct replacement for the std pump, is NOT noisy like the 040s, I don't need to worry about how much fuel I have and I don't get any surging (all cool) It's a little more expensive than the 040 and I got mine from Nengun

are these legal ?

SOLD !!!

PM sent

I'm in Brisbane - and have used the Customer Ex dumps, and they are a compromise I agree. I already had non-standard engine pipes - so I did not want to change them as well. I also went for the heat coating. They cost me $880 with the coating and gaskets I think. Sorry – I can't quantify the delivered performance difference 'cause I did it as part of a full rebuild. All I can say is that I'm happy with the results I have seen (which is the main thing). My R34 N1s spool much quicker and boost harder than the R32 N1s I had on previously. I do have back to back dyno results comparing power and torque before and after the rebuild run on the SAME dyno. ( i have posted this info in the past). I started with 210awkw @ 1.0 bar and now get 292awkw @ 1.2 bar – but as you can see I've done a LOT of work to see that gain.

I'll be here

I bought my R32 GTR about 18 months ago - and it was clearly a 'renovators delight' - if you know what I mean. The engine was already tired (READ: rooted), but the body work and interior was/are in good shape. So I set about 'renovating'. I replaced the turbos and did a FULL engine rebuild about 6 months ago. This is what I did .... forged pistons (Weisco – only one size over) shot peened and balanced everything ARP rod bolts std rods (shot peened and balanced) N1 water pump N1 oil pump N1 bearings port and polished head the non-turbulance dump pipes 3" (no cat) exhaust R34 N1s Apexi PFC Apexi EBC Tomei Adjustable CAM gears Tomei fuel pump (about 130% over the std pump) Tomei 1.2mm head gasket (yes – that's 1.2mm) Tomei timing belt SX fuel regulator std GTR injectors (but no for much longer) I have HKS 550cc injectors, RB25 AFMs and probably the Tomei CAMs on my radar for my next power upgrade - and I expect to see 350awkw when I'm done. I may also look at an upgraded FMIC to keep things nice an cooool. If you have not figured it out yet - this rebuild cost me my left one, but it's a fairly conservative and solid build. I did a lot of research before starting, spoke to guys that have owned GTRs for a long time, and I spent a lot of time looking for a mechanic I could trust. The only thing I would change if I was doing it again would be to use forged rods and stronger head bolts. These items will limit me to around the 350awkw mark – which was kind of easy to get to by the way. I'm happy to share all the gory details of my experiences if your interested

I've used custom HKS style non-turbulace dumps on my GTR and I think I got ~25awkw from them - give or take I'm currently running with R34 N1s (isn't everyone) and I'm getting a solid 300awkw @ 1.0 bar

pls check your PM