itbmils

I've used the Motul oil in my R32 GTR gear box - but it made the 'crunching' worse. It did not seem to like the heat - 'cause it was especially bad once the car had warmed up. Getting into 1st gear at the lights was an interesting experience for example I'm now using the Redline Shock Proof - and it's MUCH better

Guys I have R34 N1s on my R32 GTR and the Nissan part number is : 14411-AA403 Mine have the .42 compressor housing tho ( YES they DO Exist – and Nissan will confirm it if you give them this part number) AFAIK these are series one R34 N1s and they came off an R34-GTR V-spec II I'm getting 300+awkw ATM @ 1.2bar – but I NEED bigger injectors HtH Scott

The N1 oil pump is VERY different to the std unit - I recall seeing a thread not so long ago that did a detailed comparison between the std pump and the N1 pump - and the N1 pump proved to be VERY different - not just the spring. From memory – it not only flowed more – but was considerably stronger in construction too (thicker backing plate for example). I can't seem to find that thread now – may have been dreaming – or it ?could? have been on the SDU site instead For what it's worth (if you have lemming tendencies) I have both N1 water and oil pumps on my street driven GTR - and I've never had a problem with either of them (you can't be too safe with the slippery black stuff I think) HtH

cool thanks for the help - will check those readings next time

NOT a base tune dude - pulled 304awkw @ Maxfix I'll check injectors too next time

OK Let me just say - I DON'T UNDERSTAND I have just fit a PFC to my R32 GTR - and have been keeping an eye on things After adding some octane booster - my peak knock is now under 40 (read : 32) - even when driving VERY hard BUT I still notice the engine light comes on - usually at high RPM (7000+) What does this mean - I thought the engine light was triggered by a knock reading of more the 60 what the ? What else causes the engine light to flash ?

So if I have custom dump pipes - is it possible my O2 sensors are NOT connected ?

OK where is the O2 sensor - and how do I check if it's faulty ?

Cubes - to be honest I don't know how the cam gears are currently set - tho I will ask and let you know Also - I've just filled up with 98 ron fuel (I always use PULP) and added a bottle of Octane Boost (Wyns) - and now my knock level peaks at 40 – even at full noise, and only at 7500rpm and above. The other thing I noted was that my knock level hits 30 – even when not driving hard. I've herd that forged pistons (I have Wysco BTW) can make the engine noisy (especially when cold). Is this true – and does anyone know if Wysco are a particularly noisy piston. Could this make my knock readings look higher than they are – and if so how else do I check for pinging ? NB - I am NOT pushing hard when the engine is cold, and I did re-set the peak holds after the engine had warmed up. (I understand that forged pistons rattle less once warm - yes?)

I fairly sure it IS illegal to leave your car while running - but I also had problems getting insurance for my R32 GTR if it had a timer. I needed a 3 point immobiliser that auto armed with 30 seconds - otherwise no insurance HtH

Ok - will do - will need to wait for the rain to stop tho !!! BTW - I already have Tomei adj cam gears installed (IN and EX) - does that make these readings worse ?

Yep ! The darker lines are for comparison from a base line run I did with my old turbos and b4 the engine rebuild (about 12 months ago) new Tomei fuel pump and fuel filter installed last week Agree - but they turned the car off b4 I could check it - that resets the HC - yes The MAX knock I have seen so far is ~47 The MAX AFM (volts?) reading I have seem so far is ~4.8 The MAx injector duty cycle I have seen so far is in the high 90% Sorry guys - I still a noobe with the PFC

OK had the 4 wheel power run done this morning (cold and wet here is Brisbane today) and still managed to get 291.7akwk. This is down from 304rwkw on the Maxfix 2 wheel dyno (so not that much in it really). BUT The guys from C&J aborted the run on the 2nd attempt due to knocking and the fact that my mixtures where leaning out (heading towards 13:1 when they stopped the run). Have a look at the attached graph of the run – and let me know if this looks like a big problem. The first thing I notice (after the OUTSTANDING result) is the mixtures are only 12.5:1 – but climbing The second interesting thing is that the boost level is not exactly flat, it seems to waver up and down once max boost is reached (sorry boost is not on this graph). I've just installed a PFC with the Apexi EBC and had hoped it would do a batter job than that !!! Bigger injectors and RB25 AFMs will address this right (that's what the man said)– but what should I do in the mean time. Maxfix have offered to have another look (take out some timing I think they said). They also suggested octane booster would help (Nulon ProStrength ???)

thanks SK – it's always good to understand these things (temps) OK - lets clear up a few details with this thread Mazfix only have a 2 wheel dyno - so the graph I have posted is actually rwkw (not awkw) - I think SK indicated that would be more like 280awkw (we will see) BUT having driven the car around for a while now – it does not feel like 300kw to me (I'm no expert however) So ..... my suspicious nature has convinced me to booked my car in for a power run on a four wheel dyno this Monday. It's the same dyno I pulled my 210awkw base line before starting my rebuild. It was a while ago – but I hope to be able to compare the tractive effort figures before and after to get a REAL comparison of how I'm looking now (weather and other conditions aside) I've also been monitoring some of the data coming out of the PFC (as suggested) – so far I have see a peak knock of 47 (engine light came on at the top of third gear – but I did not check the injectors – sorry). How BAD is that ? (no knock is good knock - yes ?) From what I've read on other threads – 280awkw is the peak reading I should get with the std injectors – so I doubt I'm getting that yet. Based on the seat of the pants feel (using the 210awkw as a base) I'd say I'm more in the 250-260awkw range, so I may still have some work to do. (cams you say - hmmmm) I'll post the results of the power run tomorrow

OK so based on the above VALUABLE input from SK - I assume if I upgrade AFMs and injectors and re-tune, I should see the same power at lower boost and/or I will probably see more power @ 18psi this assumes nothing else leaps in the way - and becomes rate determining in terms of air flow like my FMIC for example

so what should this temp be ?

i CAN give you part numbers if that will help

to be clear I'm running 1.2 bar

OK OK - at the risk of being flamed for not using the search function, I'm going to ask how much boost 1: can I run with R34 N1 turbos (Series 1 - with the .42 comp housing) 2: should I run with R34 N1 trubos Two VERY different questions - yes I've just had my engine rebuild completed and run it (hurray!!). I've installed a PFC and EBC with Adj cam gears (blah blah blah – it's all just an expensive blur of spending now). Max boost is currently set to 18psi - and I'm getting ~300awkw. All in all, a good result I think. Last time I posted this question (before I started the rebuild) - I think the consensus was that 18psi was about the peak efficiency rating for these turbos. They ?could? push more - but at my own risk. My question is - if my next upgrade was to be ... Bigger injectors - probably 550cc RB25 AFMs with suction kit Possibly a BIGGER FMIC and hard pipe kit ??? 1: would that make any difference to performance @ 18psi 2: could I run higher boost - more safely and why ? 3: would cams be a better upgrade Talk to me guys – if you have these turbos – what boost do you run and for how long have you been running it

dump !!

link / pointer to the FC Datalogic web site ?

OK I now have my PFC installed, and I ?think? I ?may? have a copy of some PC software that will let me log what is going on what sort of cable do I need to connect the laptop to the PFC - and where on the PFC do I connect it ?

offers

I had r32 N1s with pods and cat back exhaust and pulled 210awkw with the boost restrictor removed My engine was a little STUFFED tho

As the title says I have a pair of std GTR cam gears up for sale - done about 50,000 klms I've just upgraded to TOMEI adjustable cam gears - so I don't need them any more $100 for the pair ?