itbmils

As the title says I have a Blitz Access ECU from an R32 GTR I've just upgrade to a PFC (yesterday) - so I know it is working fine Asking $300 - but I have ZERO idea how much it is worth (offer$)

as the title says I have an R32 GTR fuel pump up for grabs just upgraded to TOMEI pump (yesterday) - so I know it is working fine and in VGC was getting 240awkw with it - $150 ono

OK OK FYI - I have a pair of RB25 AFM in the boot already - just waiting for a suction kit before I can fit them up. I'll also be upgrading the injectors (550cc HKS or SARD I think). I'll then take it for another dyno tune and push for some more. I KNOW some of you also get these types of numbers with std internals, but for how long. I was running R32 N1s before my rebuild - without the PFC and using std internals - and it went BOOM. At that stage I was getting ~210awkw. I'm still happy with ~300awkw with this setup – and I know it will drive hard all day.

Well I have FINALLY finished running in the beast - and had it retuned after a full rebuild She managed to get to 402hp @ the wheels - which by my math is about 303awkw – yes. Tune was done by Mazfix on their 2 wheel dyno – so does that impact on the number in any way ? I happy with that result - based on the following 'upgrades'. I was targeting about 280awkw – using std injectors, AFMs and FMIC. This is what I did .... (work was done by Serge @ John French – BTW) full engine rebuild using N1 bearings ARIES forged pistons ballance/linish/polish everything R34 N1 turbos running @ 18psi (series 1s with .42 comp housing) TOMEI adj cam gear TOMEI head gasket (1.2mm) TOMEI fuel pump TOMEI timing belt All new tensioners and pulleys N1 water pump N1 oil pump minor port and polish with new steam seals and competition seats non-turbulent dumps into full 3" system std injectors cleaned and flowed APEXI PCF with EBC SX fuel reg http://img83.echo.cx/my.php?image=dynoafter19uw.jpg

what about Nissan Aus ?

can anyone run me thru the procedure to remove and clean my FMIC I have an R32 GTR and I was getting a LOT of blow-by before my engine rebuild. I drained a heap of oil out of the std BOV pipping - and expect a good deal of oil is still trapped in the FMIC and pipping. 1: what's the steps to remove it can I get it off just by removing the front bar 2: what should I use to clean it I've herd metho is the go as is evaporates quickly and will not react with the alloy 3: how long will it take can I get this done in a day - or will the FMIC take longer to dry 4: or should I just take it up to ARE and get them to clean and flow test it for $165

At LAST someone has mentioned the END TANK !!!

what sort of car is it ? I've herd GTR BOVs a solid for example - so you don;t need to change them (shrugs)

I do still have spanners - but can't for the life of my remember where I put them My method is much easier on the knuckles - yes (this is why god created gold cards)

I think the point is DON'T think about changing / upgrading ANYTHING until you have it here and KNOW what condition it's, and it will take a while to figure that out. You'll have enough to spend your money on once you start to replace all the fluids, oils and filters (don't forget the fuel filter). Not to mention dyno runs, ECU retunes, and pressure leaks etc etc. My motor or turbos never actually failed – the RB26 is a strong motor – and it held together for me. But I was not willing to spend anything on performance improvements until I had a reasonable base to work from. Once we stripped it down – It needed head work to repair damage from detonation, pots 4 and 6 where gone (bore and hone) and the list goes on. My point here is that the motor didn't die . It was running fine and delivering a good 210awkw with the restrictor removed. But it would not have lasted long if I had just bolted up a pair of bigger turbos and threw on a nice big exhaust. If you buy stuff up front - you'll end up paying WAY more than you budget for in the end. I agree with PSI_GTSII - they are now an old car - the RB26 was designed in the mid 80s - and it shows (compare it to a modern Sti or EVO). It's still a very good package, and will deliver what you ask - but only if it's in good shape to do so. Don't get me wrong – I LOVE my GTR, it's one of the best cars I owed - and I've been lucky enough to owned a few (WRX/Sti/HSV for example). Can you tell I'm not 22 years old be prepared - any R32 you buy will go BANG some time soon – unless it's been rebuilt (no rocket science required). This is not the kind of car only driven to church on Sundays – if you know what I mean. HARD DRIVING + NEGLECT = BANG !!! As they say - buying a GTR is easy - keeping one - that's the expensive part. This is all only one mans opinion – but I'd like to pass on the wisdom acquired from my years. That's what this forum is all about – yes ? You choose to listen (and agree) or not.

thus I resigned myself to buying a broken one in the first place

Guys this is a simple matter of 'you get what you pay for' If you expect to pick up an R32 GTR for next to nothing (READ : sub $30K) - expect to have problems. I agree that not many people would want to talk about killing their engine within days/weeks/months of buying the car – but I suppose it does happen. This may be due to the different fuel we run here in Aus. GET YOUR MIXTURES CHECKED BEFORE INTRODUCING LEAD FOOT TO PEDDLE !!! I got my R32 about 12 months ago for like $20K and have spent the last year rebuilding it (almost $15K already). BUT that's what I excepted to do. Now I have a SOLID street legal road weapon, that I know will take what ever I throw at her. This is not the cheapest way to get a fully rebuilt car, but it's the ONLY way you can GARENTEE what's gone into the rebuild. I know I will never get ALL my money back – but's that's OK too. I'll keep the car until I'm over it, and then pass it on to some lucky git that will get all my work for a 'steel' (I've done t before unfortunately) this is only my humble opinion – but I've been around a while.

guys I had a set of non-turbulence (HKS style) dumps made up by custom exhaust here in Brisbane, used mild steel and had them HPC coated - and they work great (20+AWKW extra) Already had custom fronts @ 3" - so that was fine I agree - the std dumps on the R32 GTRs are AVERAGE at best IMHO - save your pennies - do it once and do it right changing dumps is not an easy exercise from what I've seen - (almost as much to fit them as it is to buy them) I had mine done while the engine was out - easy

OK so does anyone know the ps rating for the smaller N1s ?

OK guys I ?think? I have similar turbos currently fitted to my R32 GTR (only just) Part Number is : 14411-AA403 (both turbos did have the plaque) Which according to Nissan are series 3 R34 N1s – with SS internals and BB rollers. They also have 9 blades BUT Mine also have a small separator between the rear turbine wheel and the waste gate (which yours do not seem to have – tho the picture is a little fizzy) I have only just had them fitted and have not had the chance to fire them up yet, so I can't tell you how they will go. I'm waiting for PCF + EBC to be fitted in a week or so. I'm also fairly sure they are .42 A/R on the comp side (can't be sure and the pics I have do not show it) and they came off an R34 V-spec II AFAIK I do have a SQ (silly question) Are Nismo and N1 the SAME thing? My understanding is that there are N1 turbos and Nismo turbos – and only the Nismo turbos have the .60 compressor housing - but I could be making it all up HtH

anuone know where to get the cable required to connect the PFC to a laptop OR can someone tell me how to make one

My understanding is that the newer GTR FMICs are better R34 is better than R33 is better than R32 I have an R32 GTR - and I'm looking to upgrade to an R34 FMIC HtH

I'm doing upgrades to my GTR, which include new PFC + EBC new Tomei adj cam gears new Tomei fuel pump new HKS 550 cc injectors and I have just realised that I have not changed the fuel filter in over 12 mths now as far as I know - I still have the std filter (small aluminium thingy under plenum - yes) is the std filter OK - or should I be looking at something a little better comments please

I have an R32 GTR and have just had a full engine rebuild done – part of the rebuild included a complete oil change. They changed my G'Box oil to Motul – and now I seem to be clipping gears. It's not a full on crunch – just a minor clip selecting 1st and 4th (I can hear it – and also feel it through the stick). It's MUCH worse on the way down the box. Selecting 1st is interesting when sitting at the lights some times. Double clutching helps- and even with the pedal all the way to the floor – it will still clip some of the time. All other gears are fine. I have NFI what oil was in the box b4 the Motul – but suspect the new oil is a lighter weight (I could be off track here tho) talk to me – this seems like the syncos are failing to me – or should I be running with a heavier oil in this G'Box

Guys I think we have a misunderstanding I am talking about replacing the 3 gauges in the centre consol (not the main cluster behind the steering wheel) Have a look at http://www.nengun.com/catalogue/product/370 – for pics and info As you can see it has a boost gauge up to 1.2 bar - which should be fine for my R34 N1s Talk to me - will this just drop in and work - or am I up for other mods ? I'd also be interested in the possibility of swapping out the std gauge for a better one – leaving the other two in place. I ?think? They are 52mm – yes ?

All I'm considering an upgrade to the Nismo instrument cluster for my R32 GTR. I mainly need the boost gauge – and I don't like the pillar mount options 1: Is this a straight swap out of the std cluster – easy to fit ? 2: anyone have one for sale - Nengun looks good atm 3: anyone want my std cluster (offers)

long GONNNEEE !! sorry

MMmmm where do I get rims like that for my R32

you know what they say - pay peanuts and you get monkeys (Chinese or otherwise) I would have thought by the time you factor in the extra time / effort and money to fit this thing up, deal with all the LITTLE problems the crop up along the way, get it tuned and running right - the actual cost of the turbo will be down in the noise (Even if you do it your self – it's still gonna cost you time, money, skin and blood too probably) Some of us (the older ones) have been down this path before (more than once usually), take some advice, save your cash – do it once and do it right. It's simple - if you're looking for a cheap solution - that's what you'll get

Tomei from nengun !!!