itbmils

probably a bit of both I'm told that 18psi is their peak efficiency - but that they can push to 21psi with the appropiate support so - how do I do that - the only temp I can see from the PFC is from th plenum - it's all relaticve anyway - right ?

I have series 3 R34 N1s - with the .48 housing – they came off an R34 V-Spec II. I'm currently running 1.2 bar – which is the the ZONE for these turbos AFAIK I'd like to get to 1.4 bar - but my air temps are on the limit already I think. So this sort of confirms that 300awkw is about the limit for the std R32 FMIC I see up to 80 degrees @ the plenum at times (this is the reading from my PFC hand controller anyway)- but temps do drop back down once I get on the peddle - so I know the FMIC is still working I guess what I'm saying is that I'm not keen on dialing in more boost (which I understand these turbos can deal with) until I get a bigger FMIC and get my charge temps under control. Until then - 297awkw will have to do I could always do injectors and cams instead I suppose

OK I have an R32 GTR with ~300awkw (297awkw if you must know) - and I still have the std FMIC – no problems so far – not even in the middle of the Queensland summer (obvious sledge opportunity for those on the forum not blessed enough to live in the sunshine state ) Now - I ?may? be missing something here BUT I am considering an upgrade to the std FMIC mainly so I can make the SAME power safer As with all upgrades, it needs to be considered carefully (end to end). So if I do upgrade - I'll be looking at something like ....... RB25 AFMs x 2 Apexi suction kit to suit ( get rid of those rubber hoses) new FMIC - at least 100mm thick either a full silicon or alloy hard pipe kit (steel is too heavy) I would not expect any of these mods to realise more power - but they may allow me to ramp boost a little thus giving more awkw – but that's more of a side effect really IMHO I would NOT consider the cheaper FMIC units (at ALL), mainly because as someone who KNOWS first hand what it takes (READ: COSTS) to build a reliable 300kw GTR – I would not risk all that to an unknown (untested/cheap) FMIC. I have also herd that the std GTR FMICs are very good, and that the R34 is better than the R33 which is better than the R32, so a cheap upgrade for me may be simply to get hold of an R34 FMIC. As I mentioned – I've herd some very good things about the guys at ARE so I'd be happy to pay the $3K required to supply and fit a complete custom kit. Either that or I'd be looking at something from Apexi / Trust or similar – but the cost for the FMIC and the Apexi pipe kit would cost the same even from Nengun. Just my 2c worth – happy to have my opinion modified accordingly

Hey I'm looking for the rear trim that sit above the rear windows - they surround the seat belt bolts I need both sides - don't care what colour have you got 'em ?

hi have a look at this site http://www.are.com.au/index.htm they are based in Brisbane - seem to have a good rep site also has some GREAT information on what makes a good FMIC work HtH

have you considered a swap to a PFC ? what's you air temp look like - 1.4 bar (21psi) is on the limit for these turbos AFAIK

We are simply letting him know that we are INTERESTED when/if he decides to split this up - we are here to support that decision knowledge is power I hope if have made my HIDDEN agenda OBVIOUS I WANT THAT PLENUM – AND I WANT IT CHEAP !!!

Yep - I have the AA403s on my R32 (with the .48 housing) definitely N1's (I asked Nissan b4 I bought them) definitely have steel wheels definitely have ball bearing (keep rolling for a full 60 secs after I turn the car off ) come on boost @ about 3.5K rpm (I see 11psi by that stage) I have split HKS style dumps feeding into full (cat-less) 3" system, and I see ~300awkw @ 1.2bar without poncams They still have PLENTY of potential to go, I've herd of some guys pushing these to 22psi – but that may be the .60 housings I still have the std 440cc injectors – which is limiting my output HtH

if the 18's have an offset that suitable for an R32 GTR - I'll take em for $110

Dude If you decide to split this up - I'm interested in the plenum and the spark plug cover will pay CA$H CA$H CA$H for both - so let me know

sorry guys - was expecting polished CF - did not want to paint it I'm out

what he said - email pics to [email protected] also - anyone want to buy a std gunmetal R32 GTR bonnet ? give your GTST that GTR look - and save some weight

my pref would be either silicon or alloy (steel adds too much weight - I've herd up to 20kg more) i doubt if we would be lucky enough to have std bends do the job - worth a look tho happy to be part of a group buy

Hi I think you will find the std cooler is 600x300x70 (not 90mm) – if you have a 90mm FMIC in an R32 it's probably not std (a good thing) I could be wrong tho !! As far as I know the std FMIC piping is also 70mm – so that's all that should matter when you're looking fit a kit I have an R32 GTR too - (had it about 2 years now) - and I have not been able to find anyone that makes a reasonably priced bolt up kit either. Most of the local guys I have spoken to in Brisbane say they can make one up (no problems) – but by the time they cost time and materials – it gets too $$$ You can get the HKS or Greddy kits from Nengun - but they are a little expensive too ($1500 for just the kit) It's always bothered me that you can get a piping kit for an RB25 for next to nothing (few hundred $$ - yes ?) - but if it's for an RB26 the price more than doubles. There can't be that much difference !!! (I know, I know – there are WAY more Rb25's out there – but the GTR already has an FMIC – so most of the hard work is done – all they need to do is copy what's already there) Finally – I only run 15/18psi anyway (running R34 N1s) so the std piping seems to be able to deal with that. The main reason I would like to get a piping kit is for aesthetics – so I'm not prepared to pay BIG $$ just to make it look pretty my 2c worth So – have you made any progress in finding one – maybe this is a group buy option ???

Guys I've spent some time over this week end dressing up my engine bay. I removed the cam/rocker boxes and the front timing cover to paint them (cherry red !!). I've just put everything back together and I'm happy with the result (for the price – it looks WAY better than it did) I've just been for a quick test drive - and I think I may have missed something Just as I'm coming on boost (up hill) - I decide to give it a bit of a squeez (as you do) - and I got a bit of a miss fire and the engine light flashed (I have a PFC by the way) It only did it once - drove for about 10 mins or so The only thing I can think of is that when I reinstalled the CAS - I had to guess (remember) where the setting was. I made a mark of the CAS pointing directly up – and that's where I reinstalled it. So ... 1: How do I check my CAS setting 2: How do I re-set it if it out 3: If is out by a fraction - what would that do ? If it's not the CAS setting ..... according to the peak hold settings on the PFC – nothing was out of the ordinary. Knock was OK – AFM and injectors where fine too (what else makes the engine light flash on a PFC ?)

R32 GTR with freash forged motor and R34 N1s - running (only) 1.2bar (18 psi). Using the std N1 actuators (waste gate spring ?)

Guys/Gals I've just purched a clear cam cover for my RB26 (to show off my sexy Tomei adj cam gears ) - and I'm checking for gotchas when installing it 1: can I just pull out the CAS - is there anything behind it (that's going to drop behind the bottom cover ) 2: how do I make sure I put it back in the same position - my current cam cover (black) has a white mark on it 3: any other gotchas I should know about (move engine to TDC b4 starting ?) 4: also - can I paint the CAS (very old and daggy looking ATM) 5: how long should it take (30 mins) ? sorry in advance to the NOOB questions - just being carefull

Hey I'm also considering getting my R32 GTR painted I've always thought that lighter colours look best on the R32 I'm going with yellow I think

so - any other suggestions as to why my unit does not hold a steady boost ?

Hmm - let me be the first to set a cat amongst the pigeons I don't like mine I have a mildly modified R32 GTR (~300awkw) with PFC + EBC and in hind sight I wish I had spent the extra ca$h up front and gone for the TurboSmart eBoost It ?may? be just my tune - but I find mine does NOT hold even boost once I hit the max boost setting. The boost line waves all over the place – IE it varies +/- 1psi across the rev range. Again – I don't know if this is the EBC or not – but that's what I get I've seen other dyno graphs that are as flat as a tack once they hit the max boost setting I also find it VERY noisy, it rattles/chatters like the clappers. That ?may? also be due to the fact that mine is mounted high on the passenger side fire wall – which makes it very easy to hear from inside the cabin. If nothing else – this will give you something to think about that's my 2c worth (let the flames begin)

hey - whould you sell the spark plug cover separatly ?

So where are u ? pics ?

hey did you get any info on this - I'd like to do the same The only option I can see is the ARC air box - but @ $500 - it's a little over the top $$ wise

Dude use the search function plenty of chatter in N1 Vs Group A

I need pics too pls to [email protected] I have ROH Drift Rs (17x8) on an R32 GTR in Brisbane - whould suite a GTST and S13/S14/S15 etc etc, but are the WRONG offset for a GTR