itbmils

All I have finally got around to listing this stuff on eBay all auctions are NO RESERVE - and I will sell at ANY price Item #1 is a Blitz Access ECu from my R32 GTR http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...AMESE%3AIT&rd=1 Item #2 is a set of six coil packs also from my R32 GTR http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...AMESE%3AIT&rd=1 Item #3 is a Malpassi Rising Rate FPR http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...AMESE%3AIT&rd=1 Item #4 is a RB20 AFM http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...AMESE%3AIT&rd=1 happy bidding

thanks guys I'll do some digging

OK Duncan did this at last - when I checked the computer in the boot - all I could see was a steady and consistent flash (about 1 per second) – I stoped counting @ about 20 I do not have the WSM - so what does this mean ? could the wheel spacers cause this what about uneven tyer ware (front to rear) ?

I hate that !! I still remember the do-luck double sixes BTW (yet another OBVIOUS blunder by me) SEARCH before posting - that's the key thanks for the help

OK 1: do autostyle have a web site (google did not find one that looked like it sold what I was after)? 2: who can tell me how to fix my current lights - as I say - they are very dull, and one is currently brighter than the other (I have replaced the bulbs - and that's all)

anyone know where to get these headlights from ? are they better / the same as the std GTR headlights (mine a very DULL BTW)

mine is higher than this – but I have a new engine with N1 oil pump Yep – mine does this too – and I have the SAME wheels and a HICAS boss kit for my steering wheel. Apparently once you get over 80kmls the HICAS starts to work (or tries to), once you get over 110 – if it is having problems – it gives up and the light comes on. I am yet to track this down – and will probably go for the locking bar option too. Some guys just pull the warning bulb out (you could do that when you are removing the speed warning bell if you like. NFI – mine works fine – change fluids if you can

Yep - mine worked too - but mine was behind the instrument cluster - I had to take the whole cluster out to get to it.(not a big deal – only half a dozen screws) It was a little sliver box - screwed into the back of the cluster watch out for the little plastic thingy that connects the speedo cable to the instrument cluster - mine came away with the cluster - fell on the floor and vanished into a parallel universe (gooonnnnne!) - ended up having to buy a new speedo cable

Well - I had a 2wd test - and pulled 297rwkw (just over 400hp) I then had an AWD test (different dyno) and got 293.5awkw not that much in it - but they were different dynos

Hey I have ... R34 N1s forged internals Tomei CAM gears std injectors std AFMs std FMIC Tomei fuel pump SX fuel reg I run a max boost of 18psi with Apexi PFC and EBC and get a wopping 300awkw - that's about the limit for the std injectors tho . and my air temps are creaping up there too. I'd say I have pushed things about as far as you can go

so - I'm guessing I have a loose motor clearance was set by Marty White from John White Racing up here in Bribane. They also did the hone and deck of the block and a port and polish (reco) of the head. He does the work for Theo W - so that was good enough for me (yes I spoke to Theo before going to him)

OK let's take this thread in slightly different direction is what the PFC reads as knock actually detonation ? WAIT !! before you answer .... I have just had a power run done this morning - and one of the things I asked them to look at was knock. My PFC will sit @ ~40 all day - even under light load and low boost, but I have no signs of detonation (or so I'm told). This has been checked and rechecked by three different workshops on three different dynos and three different days. if the man with the head phones on says – no ping – then I happy with that My understanding is that the knock sensors will pick up ANY noise – and translate that into a reading on the PFC hand controller. This supports my understanding that if you have forged internals with large clearances – you'll get what the PFC picks up as knock – but it's not actually detonation – it's just a noisy engine. I had an old 323 BMW that had the same thing once. I have weisco pistons – and I do no know what clearances where used – but I do know that I can hear the forged internals – even once the engine is warm. So if I can hear them – so can the PFC. This is all just my opinion, and opinions can be changed – so I'm happy to hear evidence to the contrary.

anyone know how much Nissan sold NEW R32s for in Aus (back in 89-92) what about in Japan ?

I have wiseco's too - not sure on the clearance - but it's VERY niosy @ start up, and I get higher knock readings (still under 50 tho) good advice - I have not looked for this - but I think I'm OK well - I am pulling 300awkw - so why is that different (knochk is knock - right) ?

what about the internals used - forged internals will read higher knock - yes ? this is especially so when the engine is cold. I get readings in the 40-55 range on my R32 GTR - but dyno testing show no ping (thank god!!) I've spoken to guys that have built and raced GTRs for many years - and the answer to this question depends on many factors. So I guess - the correct answer is - it depends Get your car on a dyno – that's the only way to tell for sure (AFAIK)

cool (pun ) thanks guys - will check that out

OK I have an R32 GTR with PFC fitted I have been looking at the peak hold values (as you do) - and I would like to know ... what is the air temp reading - well reading really. and where does it read it from (the plenum ?) I typically see air temps in the 40s and today had a peak value of 51 - driving home from work this afternoon. (not a hot day in Brisbane today – and I was not pushing things)

Guys and Gals anyone used N1 cams in their GTR are they a reasonable upgrade anyone have the specs for them - are they a driect swap (like the Tomei cams)

interested in the head lights - can you send pics to [email protected]

ok I just gave Rob a call - and I agree - he seems to talk a good talk So I have booked my R32 GTR in for a power run (next week) - before talking to him about doing my next power upgrade will post my feedback once I've done the run

guys anyone have the number for 101 - the only one I can find is @ Northgate ?

OK so where are they ?

what about MazFix ?

Guys for the past couple of days (maybe a week) my R32 GTR has been doing something quite odd If I start the car and back out of a parking bay (@work) the AWD warning light comes on - it's seems to be dropping into the diag mode somehow – but I thought the ignition needed to be off for that to happen It only seems to happen if a turn the car quickly. What I mean is when I back straight out of my drive way @ home where I reverse for about 7-10 meters before turning the wheel - it does not seem to happen. If I turn the car off - and restart - all is fine what the ? NB – I have fit 8mm wheel spacers on all four wheels in the past few weeks – could this be causing me a problem

now now - lets settle it down girls let's agree that port and polishing is a good thing - but only when it's justified, and I mean in terms of cost and desired performance Let's also agree that to REALLY see the benefits - you need the other supporting mods, EG exhaust, dumps, AFMs CAMS and the list goes on My opinion is that once these other mods ARE done - that you will see better results if the proper prep work has also been done I also ggree - $1500 is a lot of beer (or scotch in my case )