Oosh
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Posts posted by Oosh
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Seems Dupli.Color have a "Caliper Kit" now, brush on without removing the calipers, here 'tis:
http://www.duplicolor.com/products/caliper.html
I was more interested in their wheel coatings, but not sure if it's suitable for a colour change (stock R32's to white), or just dressing up existing colours.
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Sounds pretty damned good.
Sorry to go O/T but could you explain this 12.5 and "front runners" business to me, i briefly looked at the ANDRA regs and found this:
Cars quicker than 12.50 (1/4 mile) using independent front suspension and cross ply rear tyres are not permitted to use radial from tyres."
But I'm afraid i still dont get it.
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When my car was dyno'd at Graham West's a few months back, it was done in 3rd gear, as were all the other cars there (to the best of my knowledge).
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It's best to have a resistor on each LED.
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I have a 16" cheapo thermo on mine, but still haven't sorted out temp control properly, I couldn't see how to the keep the standard shroud but i was in a hurry to get it back on the road.
Also i measured up the EL thermos and was unconvinced they'd fit down by the A/C comp, but as mentioned i was in a hurry and didn't want to be mucking around with it to find out for sure.
My temps have been fine but it hasn't seen any genuinely hot weather yet.
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DOUBLE POST - See Below.
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Not lag, spikes, in simple terms the hose is longer so the wastegate won't react as quickly.
Save for an EBC, the Jaycar IEBC (massive thread over in Stagea land) is very affordable if you're handy with a soldering iron, or there's the dual bleed types with a switching solenoid (i.e. Turbosmart) but i dn't think they represent good value.
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Okay lets do this thing, put me down for: shocks, springs, adj. swaybars, bump stops & dust covers.
Cheers,
- Ash.
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Saw a black R33 with purple lines all over it and a "Ministry of Bass" sticker across the rear, also a number plate to that effect, on Port Rd this morning. Kinda made me chuckle.
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Is that, Como Park North, on Cnr Alexander Avenue & Williams Rd South Yarra, cos as far as I can tell there is non Alexander Parade in Sth Yarra?
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It's just what that site is about, crazy cartoons, i love it. You should check out the some of the rest of it but i warn you it's kinda addictive.
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Well keep an eye on the SA area for cruises, with the weather getting better hopefully we'll have one soon and see you there, in fact check out the stickie up top there's a dyno day coming up if you're interested.
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If going duals on a twin-turbo GTR would it be best to go a crossover pipe from the dump/front pipes like most V8's do with pipes from each cyclinder bank?
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That'd be good but don't sweat it.Yes its quieter now with its straight-through system, than with the old single 3" exhaust with the cat.Oosh- ill try to get pics, but i aint got a camera
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SAPOL can defect me like anyone else, i'm hardly untouchable, but as i understand it I could still drive the car in Vic without clearing it. But as i intend to be here for a few months yet it'd be kind of inconvenient.is that b/c your is vic registered thus sapol (in the words of mc hammer) "cant touch this"!! :lol: :lol:That said I've never been pulled over despite my ridiculously loud exhaust, but I mainly put that down to not doing a great deal of driving outside peak hour, fingers crossed it stays that way.
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Got any pics, sounds interesting...
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Mine stands out the best, i can pick out Guy's too, the rest are pretty weel hidden. Personally I'm not that fussed.bahaha dont know about the others but i can definately read yours ash. maybe sam should have just used black on all of them rather than try to colour code it to the plates. :lol: -
I'll probably be in, will know for certain when i get back from Melbourne, start of next month.
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good photos, lol @ blanking out the plates though, i can still read most of em.
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Were the originals LEDs or bulbs, if the latter then you'll need to add a resistor in series with the LED.
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Mine just has a bit of hose up the back and loops it back around.
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Well he did his u-turn and came in behind me, so i had hm for a while, i started taking it 60 everywhere so he overtook me, then Guy, but decided to snuggle up with you for the long haul.
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I went hunting for this little sucker, and ripped out the headligh beeper warning by accident, now i keep leving my headlights on.
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Have you check your battery voltage, i had a dodgy lead between the alternator and battery, the battery voltage was getting progressively worse over a couple of weeks but still running the car fine. Before the car conked out entirely the power steering started playing up becuase the voltage was too low to operate the solenoid.
Painting Fmic
in Engines & Forced Induction
Posted · Edited by Oosh
It's in reference to computer heatsinks, but is 100% valid to this discussion, Q&A article taken from http://www.dansdata.com/io042.htm (also published in the Atomic Magazine).
Is black better?
Recently, as part of our electronics course, we learned about the properties of heat sinks. The course notes (and exam mark schemes) claim that to make a heat sink more efficient it should be painted matte black.
I understand that this would make it more efficient, but my friend and I wondered why CPU heat sinks are not painted matte black? Most other heat sinks (attached to amplifiers etc) seem to be painted in this fashion, so why not CPU heat sinks?
Peter
Answer: Your course notes are right, and they're wrong.
A black object will, all things being equal, radiate heat better than one of any other colour. However, painting a shiny heat sink black may do nothing, or less than nothing, for its thermal performance, because the layer of paint acts as an insulator. The black colour must be an integral quality of the heat sink material, or a very thin, thermally conductive layer on the outside; black-anodised aluminium is a perfect example of a good black heat sink material. It's possible to put a useful thermal black patina on copper by putting it in a hot sodium hydroxide and sodium chloride solution bath (also useful for disposing of corpses), but that's neither a quick nor an easy process, so people usually only bother doing that for copper that's being used as a thermal absorber, as in solar water heaters, not on heat sinks.
This is because the colour of the heat sink matters less and less the more air you move over it. If the sink's hanging in vacuum (like the heat radiators on spacecraft that stop their own waste heat from boiling them) then it must be matte black; if it's sitting on earth being cooled by convection then it should be matte black; if it's got a bunch of forced air cooling from an attached fan* then it doesn't matter a great deal what colour it is.
Again, all things being equal, a shiny aluminium heat sink with a fan on it won't work quite as well as a black one - but the difference will be small enough that the extra marketability of the shiny heat sink is likely to be the deciding factor.
A shiny fan-cooled copper heat sink, which can't easily be made black without pointless insulative paint, will work better than an aluminium one with the same dimensions, thanks to copper's rather higher thermal conductivity.
* Replace "an attached fan" with "driving at speed" for our purposes.