Jump to content
SAU Community

Oosh

Contributor
  • Posts

    1,466
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    100%

Posts posted by Oosh

  1. Just to add another data point, I'm running 10w40,

    I have:

    4-5 @ cold idle and driving,

    2 @ warm idle,

    4 @ warm regular driving,

    4-5 @ warm "vigorous" driving.

    That all seems fine to me, and until a credable source convinces me otherwise, I'm happy with it. :D

    Edit: Engine is a R32 RB20DET.

  2. Okay, I like subscribing to certain whole forums, For Sale esp.

    The old style had an awesome summary sent out to me every day:

    Hello,
    
    You are subscribed to the forum _________________________, there have been XX new threads and XX updated threads.
    Forum Link Here
    
    The following threads are new:
    ************
    Link
    Thread Name
    Starter Name
    Last Posted Date
    ************
    
    
    The following threads have been updated:
    ************
    Link
    Thread Name
    Starter Name
    Last Posted Date
    ************

    and the new one is just a mess, it always puts in the first post of the thread and doesn't distinguish between new threads and updated ones. Observe part of one i got today:

    South Australia,
    
    This your daily new topics digest!
    
    ----------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    Forum: South Australia
    =====================================
    
    -------------------------------------------
    Topic: Mallala Practice Days (Roy -- 17th July, 2004 - 02:54 PM)
    ............................................
    G'day SA :)
    
    How far is Mallala from Thebarton in SA?
    
    ....

  3. You need to do what you're most comfortable with, if you've got the time and can keep coming back here for free non-professional help, and the confidence in your own abilities then great.

    If you just want it working and are prepared to pay what you will for it then take it to a mech. Have a poke around Qld sub-forum and I'm sure you'll get on to a reputable place that know their way around RB's.

  4. I dont really give a crap if my exhaust wheel goes by by, excuse for a new turbo...

    Go talk to GTRGeoff and RowdyR32, they've both had turbo's let go and shoot ceramic in to the ENGINE, you don't always end up with it just in you cat. Running ceramic turbine wheels to destructin is NOT a risk free exercise.

    Also by 1 bar you're already past efficiency on a stock RB20 turbo, it's heating the air WAY too much to be a good idea, stick to ~12psi (spiking to 14psi odd) until you get a better turbo.

    My 2c.

  5. I've read the PM's but after diagnoising the problem a bit last night, thought people may be able to further help as to what it could be.

    Also to note.  When the car was idling last night at lights and in the drive way.  The oil guage was sitting between the bottom line and the quater line.  When driving, it would then rise up a bit just past the quater line but doesn't go past the half way line.

    That's pretty low, before you do anything else check your oil level, and what type and viscousity oil are you using?

    Just as a comparision, when starting cold my gauge sits at half-way, or 4 as it's marked on the gauge, once warm the car idles at one quarter (2), and when under load climbs back up to half-way (4) and a bit more when going hard (say ~5).

  6. I hit about 5,500RPM last night on cold start when I first started the car and their was no squealing noise in first gear.  Hit 2nd gear and still no squealing noise.  I then pulled over for about 2mins and then took off and hit 5,000RPM and then it squealed.

    So what could this possibly be then?  A belt or the turbo or possibly the manifold?

    If it is the manifold and a new one is needed?  How much am I looking at for one?

    You really shouldn't be taking it above 2500/3000 until it hits operating temp you know, be nice to your car until it's warmed up, then punish it like it deserves! :P

    Did you try it free revving? Make sure it's warmed up, do it when you get home from work or whatever, just AFTER a drive when everything is warm.

    If you can get someone else to sit in the car and rev it, then pop the bonnet, and that way if it makes the noise you'll hear it better and might get an idea where it's coming from.

  7. Sounds like belts, free rev and bounce it up to 4,500 RPM (don't hold it up there), and see it makes the noise.

    It's highly unlikely it's your turbo, turbine speed is dependant on engine load NOT RPM, so being out of gear will take the turbo out of the equation.

    If it does then spray some WD40/RP7 on the belt pulleys, do it one belt at a time, if the noise goes away you know which belt it is. Then proceed to tighten that belt.

  8. I've got 225/50/16 Bridgestone Potenza GIII 's, very happy with them thus far, and they did very well (if not outright winning) a recent Wheels test (attrib. as much credence to that as you wish).

    I was very much interested in the K104's but struggled to find them hear in Adelaide.

    It all depends on how much you want to spend and what you intend to use the car for.

  9. MV Automatics certainly get a good rap from everyone I know who has been there.

    Unfortunately Oosh was slightly mistaken, in that my shifts have been tweaked by electronically increasing line pressure, not by upgraded hardware.  Full control of the factory PCM is a wonderful thing.

    Holdens have got electronics now? :D

    In all seriousness I'm impressed you can do it so simply, are there any major downsides, i.e. do the lines and valving etc. stand up well to the increased pressure long-term?

    Edit:GDogg, sorry for the OT, but i think you have your answer now. :)

  10. Chops (Calais) and 4Door_Sleeper (R33) have had theirs re-valved, and Nightcrawler (R34) is planning on it, for hi-po shifts.

    Ask one of them about it and maybe get that done the same time as a rebuild. :(

    Edit: Or graduate from slushbox school and get a 5spd conversion. :D

×
×
  • Create New...