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Posts posted by Oosh
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Well done that man!
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Just to add another data point, I'm running 10w40,
I have:
4-5 @ cold idle and driving,
2 @ warm idle,
4 @ warm regular driving,
4-5 @ warm "vigorous" driving.
That all seems fine to me, and until a credable source convinces me otherwise, I'm happy with it.
Edit: Engine is a R32 RB20DET.
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Okay, I like subscribing to certain whole forums, For Sale esp.
The old style had an awesome summary sent out to me every day:
Hello, You are subscribed to the forum _________________________, there have been XX new threads and XX updated threads. Forum Link Here The following threads are new: ************ Link Thread Name Starter Name Last Posted Date ************ The following threads have been updated: ************ Link Thread Name Starter Name Last Posted Date ************
and the new one is just a mess, it always puts in the first post of the thread and doesn't distinguish between new threads and updated ones. Observe part of one i got today:
South Australia, This your daily new topics digest! ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Forum: South Australia ===================================== ------------------------------------------- Topic: Mallala Practice Days (Roy -- 17th July, 2004 - 02:54 PM) ............................................ G'day SA :) How far is Mallala from Thebarton in SA? ....
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go to "user cp",
bottom left is a box marked "options",
select "email settings",
under "board preferences",
check "enable 'email notification' by default".
...and Robert's your father's brother!
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From SK's Whiteling group buy thread here, his recommended "road settings".
Front caster: +7.0 or more
Front camber: -1.0
Front toe: 0mm
Rear camber: -0.5
Rear toe: 2mm
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You need to do what you're most comfortable with, if you've got the time and can keep coming back here for free non-professional help, and the confidence in your own abilities then great.
If you just want it working and are prepared to pay what you will for it then take it to a mech. Have a poke around Qld sub-forum and I'm sure you'll get on to a reputable place that know their way around RB's.
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Maybe. I have a mate's bucks day/night on the Saturday, paintballing followed closed doors in a pub.
If I'm not in too sorry a state I'll be in.
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I'm assuming it at least cranks over, yes?
You've checked the fuel side, what about spark, check your plugs to see if they're fouled and your coil packs see if they're doing their job?
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That's a 10w40 yeah? You should be getting better oil pressure than that I'd think, double check your oil level (HOT), just cause it isn't leaking doesn't mean it's not burning it or there wasn't enough in there in the first place.
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I dont really give a crap if my exhaust wheel goes by by, excuse for a new turbo...
Go talk to GTRGeoff and RowdyR32, they've both had turbo's let go and shoot ceramic in to the ENGINE, you don't always end up with it just in you cat. Running ceramic turbine wheels to destructin is NOT a risk free exercise.
Also by 1 bar you're already past efficiency on a stock RB20 turbo, it's heating the air WAY too much to be a good idea, stick to ~12psi (spiking to 14psi odd) until you get a better turbo.
My 2c.
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That's pretty low, before you do anything else check your oil level, and what type and viscousity oil are you using?I've read the PM's but after diagnoising the problem a bit last night, thought people may be able to further help as to what it could be.Also to note. When the car was idling last night at lights and in the drive way. The oil guage was sitting between the bottom line and the quater line. When driving, it would then rise up a bit just past the quater line but doesn't go past the half way line.
Just as a comparision, when starting cold my gauge sits at half-way, or 4 as it's marked on the gauge, once warm the car idles at one quarter (2), and when under load climbs back up to half-way (4) and a bit more when going hard (say ~5).
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You really shouldn't be taking it above 2500/3000 until it hits operating temp you know, be nice to your car until it's warmed up, then punish it like it deserves!I hit about 5,500RPM last night on cold start when I first started the car and their was no squealing noise in first gear. Hit 2nd gear and still no squealing noise. I then pulled over for about 2mins and then took off and hit 5,000RPM and then it squealed.So what could this possibly be then? A belt or the turbo or possibly the manifold?
If it is the manifold and a new one is needed? How much am I looking at for one?
Did you try it free revving? Make sure it's warmed up, do it when you get home from work or whatever, just AFTER a drive when everything is warm.
If you can get someone else to sit in the car and rev it, then pop the bonnet, and that way if it makes the noise you'll hear it better and might get an idea where it's coming from.
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Check out Bad Biki and his daughterboards:
http://www.sr20tuning.com/modifications.html
My R32 has a re-chipped EEPROM by Dr Drift (along with a lot of other Vic R32's).
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What'd it smell like? I'm putting money on it being your clutch since you were in 3rd.
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Sounds like belts, free rev and bounce it up to 4,500 RPM (don't hold it up there), and see it makes the noise.
It's highly unlikely it's your turbo, turbine speed is dependant on engine load NOT RPM, so being out of gear will take the turbo out of the equation.
If it does then spray some WD40/RP7 on the belt pulleys, do it one belt at a time, if the noise goes away you know which belt it is. Then proceed to tighten that belt.
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For the record standard R32 GTST rims are 16x6.5 +40 offset all round.
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I've got 225/50/16 Bridgestone Potenza GIII 's, very happy with them thus far, and they did very well (if not outright winning) a recent Wheels test (attrib. as much credence to that as you wish).
I was very much interested in the K104's but struggled to find them hear in Adelaide.
It all depends on how much you want to spend and what you intend to use the car for.
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He has 2 x GTR's and 1 x GTST, surely at least one of them is on the road, anyways I'll whinge at him directly as well.Rowdy has had certain problems relating to every panel on his car beign bent, so that a pretty good reason...other then that who knows, ill lay the hard word on him -
Holdens have got electronics now?MV Automatics certainly get a good rap from everyone I know who has been there.Unfortunately Oosh was slightly mistaken, in that my shifts have been tweaked by electronically increasing line pressure, not by upgraded hardware. Full control of the factory PCM is a wonderful thing.
In all seriousness I'm impressed you can do it so simply, are there any major downsides, i.e. do the lines and valving etc. stand up well to the increased pressure long-term?
Edit:GDogg, sorry for the OT, but i think you have your answer now.
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Chops (Calais) and 4Door_Sleeper (R33) have had theirs re-valved, and Nightcrawler (R34) is planning on it, for hi-po shifts.
Ask one of them about it and maybe get that done the same time as a rebuild.
Edit: Or graduate from slushbox school and get a 5spd conversion.
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If the prices are similar, I'd definately be interested in shocks + springs (maybe sway bars) for my R32 GTST, if/when you offer them.
~$1300 for a new setup seems like better value than ~$700 to rebuild my Tein HA's.
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The forum change over broke a lot of links, using the WHITE PAGES would have got it for you, but here's the detials anyway:
ALL CLUTCH & BRAKE SERVICE PTY LTD
3 Pinn St St Marys 5042 (08) 8277 8122
Email [email protected]
Internet www.allclutchandbrake.com.au
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25w50 seems pretty think even for normal conditions, unless your engine has a fair bit of wear and needs it, speaking of which what type of engine are we talking about here?
Signature Sizes
in Site discussion - including Ideas/Feedback & Bugs
Posted · Edited by Oosh
I'll freely admit mines a bit large, been meaning to resize it tell the truth, I don't mine OCAU's policy of banning pictures in sigs. They only slow things down.
Edit: Looks like admins agreed too, LOL, smaller sig now.