Oosh

Hello... anyone?

Nope, sorry i think text should be restricted too, oh and Funky this mod might help automate the process so you don't have to police it yourself. http://mods.invisionize.com/db/index.php/f/4694

Yeah, well my car hasn't been modified much further so there hasn't been the impetus, and when i looked at it properly you really need an emulator to do the job right. IMHO it's just not a feasible process to: Dyno -> Change Tune -> Erase Chip* -> Burn Chip --\ ^ | | | \------------ Repeat til done <-------------------/ *You really need a special eraser for this, you can leave em in the sun but it's unreliable, or you can keep using freshies at ~$10 a pop. Which is why, from what i can gather, Sam originally had a generic tune and made the odd tweak here and there. Once you factor in the equipment costs for an individual it's more economical to go the PowerFC route. Edit: And you'll STILL need Dyno time, and someone to tune it (unless you're confident with it yourself) who will be unfamiliar with the process, which despite it's benefits is why it'll always be a bit of specialty to certain tuners.

That's sweet, as i said it's still bloody good, I just realised this is an older one anyways. Issue #4 didn't have any glaringly obvious stuff jump out at me, and that's all that matters, not writing Shakespeare here I know.

I'd like to know this too, hence ressurecting this 6 month old thread

R33 maps are in the ecu itself, not on a seperate EEPROM, so you need to install a daughter-board. It's a fair bit of f**king about and no where near as flexible as a PowerFC which arent THAT expensive and nearly everyone knows how to use.

Definately, should have the URAS pic OR the other two, personally i don't mind "shopping lists" if the car is packing that brands gear.

A great read, makes we wish i was back in Vic more than anything else, but I think you should assign an editor / proof reader (a fresh pair of eyes, someone who hasn't been involved in it's production in anyway) as a a fair few simple errors slipped through. I know I'm being pedantic but it takes a bit of the gloss off what it is otherwise a very slick publication. Regardless, well done.

http://www.rb20det.com/ecupinout.html

I'll definately be up for the Spring/Shock combo very soon, I've decided I can't go back to my HA's, but with $1000+ worth of extra kit on that list i was wondering where you place the rest of it in order of importance SK?

Personally i still feel that's a bit wide.

It was already on my car when i bought it but i downloaded the bin thru my consult and compared the bin. His re-chip removed the AFM limit, speed limit, upped the rev cut (too high IMHO), and added some timing in the lower rev-range. You just de-solder the old chip, solder a 28pin socket in, then burn a new chip and pop it in to place. You can't re-program via consult.

There's a drift being organised there for the 29th of next month over on NS.com

Don't apologise, read, esp. SK's post you might learn summin.

Umm that one looks exactly the same to me... all the buttons have a gray surround excpet "quote" for me on IE6.Edit: But now I'm in Firefox i can see what you mean. Another example of crappy MS, roll on IE7!

I'll freely admit mines a bit large, been meaning to resize it tell the truth, I don't mine OCAU's policy of banning pictures in sigs. They only slow things down. Edit: Looks like admins agreed too, LOL, smaller sig now.

Well done that man!

Just to add another data point, I'm running 10w40, I have: 4-5 @ cold idle and driving, 2 @ warm idle, 4 @ warm regular driving, 4-5 @ warm "vigorous" driving. That all seems fine to me, and until a credable source convinces me otherwise, I'm happy with it. Edit: Engine is a R32 RB20DET.

Okay, I like subscribing to certain whole forums, For Sale esp. The old style had an awesome summary sent out to me every day: Hello, You are subscribed to the forum _________________________, there have been XX new threads and XX updated threads. Forum Link Here The following threads are new: ************ Link Thread Name Starter Name Last Posted Date ************ The following threads have been updated: ************ Link Thread Name Starter Name Last Posted Date ************ and the new one is just a mess, it always puts in the first post of the thread and doesn't distinguish between new threads and updated ones. Observe part of one i got today: South Australia, This your daily new topics digest! ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Forum: South Australia ===================================== ------------------------------------------- Topic: Mallala Practice Days (Roy -- 17th July, 2004 - 02:54 PM) ............................................ G'day SA :) How far is Mallala from Thebarton in SA? ....

go to "user cp", bottom left is a box marked "options", select "email settings", under "board preferences", check "enable 'email notification' by default". ...and Robert's your father's brother!

From SK's Whiteling group buy thread here, his recommended "road settings". Front caster: +7.0 or more Front camber: -1.0 Front toe: 0mm Rear camber: -0.5 Rear toe: 2mm

You need to do what you're most comfortable with, if you've got the time and can keep coming back here for free non-professional help, and the confidence in your own abilities then great. If you just want it working and are prepared to pay what you will for it then take it to a mech. Have a poke around Qld sub-forum and I'm sure you'll get on to a reputable place that know their way around RB's.

Maybe. I have a mate's bucks day/night on the Saturday, paintballing followed closed doors in a pub. If I'm not in too sorry a state I'll be in.

I'm assuming it at least cranks over, yes? You've checked the fuel side, what about spark, check your plugs to see if they're fouled and your coil packs see if they're doing their job?