Oosh

That's a 10w40 yeah? You should be getting better oil pressure than that I'd think, double check your oil level (HOT), just cause it isn't leaking doesn't mean it's not burning it or there wasn't enough in there in the first place.

Go talk to GTRGeoff and RowdyR32, they've both had turbo's let go and shoot ceramic in to the ENGINE, you don't always end up with it just in you cat. Running ceramic turbine wheels to destructin is NOT a risk free exercise. Also by 1 bar you're already past efficiency on a stock RB20 turbo, it's heating the air WAY too much to be a good idea, stick to ~12psi (spiking to 14psi odd) until you get a better turbo. My 2c.

That's pretty low, before you do anything else check your oil level, and what type and viscousity oil are you using?Just as a comparision, when starting cold my gauge sits at half-way, or 4 as it's marked on the gauge, once warm the car idles at one quarter (2), and when under load climbs back up to half-way (4) and a bit more when going hard (say ~5).

You really shouldn't be taking it above 2500/3000 until it hits operating temp you know, be nice to your car until it's warmed up, then punish it like it deserves! Did you try it free revving? Make sure it's warmed up, do it when you get home from work or whatever, just AFTER a drive when everything is warm. If you can get someone else to sit in the car and rev it, then pop the bonnet, and that way if it makes the noise you'll hear it better and might get an idea where it's coming from.

Check out Bad Biki and his daughterboards: http://www.sr20tuning.com/modifications.html My R32 has a re-chipped EEPROM by Dr Drift (along with a lot of other Vic R32's).

What'd it smell like? I'm putting money on it being your clutch since you were in 3rd.

Sounds like belts, free rev and bounce it up to 4,500 RPM (don't hold it up there), and see it makes the noise. It's highly unlikely it's your turbo, turbine speed is dependant on engine load NOT RPM, so being out of gear will take the turbo out of the equation. If it does then spray some WD40/RP7 on the belt pulleys, do it one belt at a time, if the noise goes away you know which belt it is. Then proceed to tighten that belt.

For the record standard R32 GTST rims are 16x6.5 +40 offset all round.

I've got 225/50/16 Bridgestone Potenza GIII 's, very happy with them thus far, and they did very well (if not outright winning) a recent Wheels test (attrib. as much credence to that as you wish). I was very much interested in the K104's but struggled to find them hear in Adelaide. It all depends on how much you want to spend and what you intend to use the car for.

He has 2 x GTR's and 1 x GTST, surely at least one of them is on the road, anyways I'll whinge at him directly as well.

Holdens have got electronics now? In all seriousness I'm impressed you can do it so simply, are there any major downsides, i.e. do the lines and valving etc. stand up well to the increased pressure long-term? Edit:GDogg, sorry for the OT, but i think you have your answer now.

Chops (Calais) and 4Door_Sleeper (R33) have had theirs re-valved, and Nightcrawler (R34) is planning on it, for hi-po shifts. Ask one of them about it and maybe get that done the same time as a rebuild. Edit: Or graduate from slushbox school and get a 5spd conversion.

If the prices are similar, I'd definately be interested in shocks + springs (maybe sway bars) for my R32 GTST, if/when you offer them. ~$1300 for a new setup seems like better value than ~$700 to rebuild my Tein HA's.

The forum change over broke a lot of links, using the WHITE PAGES would have got it for you, but here's the detials anyway: ALL CLUTCH & BRAKE SERVICE PTY LTD 3 Pinn St St Marys 5042 (08) 8277 8122 Email [email protected] Internet www.allclutchandbrake.com.au

There's been an interesting sign up all this week on Main North Rd opposite Mawson Lakes.

25w50 seems pretty think even for normal conditions, unless your engine has a fair bit of wear and needs it, speaking of which what type of engine are we talking about here?

Yes, thanks SK, i should have made that clearer.Edit: first post updated.

If it don't get the car out there I'll definately be there for the drinking, see if you can get Rowdy over too Roy, lying bastard said he'd come visit me.

Brew it yourself, it's not hard, and you can make it with as much "balls" as you like!

Can you do me a favour and measure your head around, just above your eye brows and the tips of your ears, working on the assumption it fits you comfortably it'll give me a good idea if it's worth my while coming and checking it out. Cheers, - Ash. P.S. Where abouts in SA are you (if Adelaide what suburb)?

It's more about reliability at sustained high revs i believe, do a search for some of Roy's posts regarding this, or he might just find his way in here if you're lucky!

Gearbox wise it depends what you're planning on doing to the car, I know first-hand RowdyR32 had a 220+RWKW RB26 in front of a stock RB20DET g/b, he wasn't habitually doing hard/drag style launches in it, but did do several track days, and it held up fine. I would definately get a heavier clutch though, doesn't need to be anything fancy, just a heavy-duty organic. i.e. Daikin.

Apologies if this has been posted already, but came across this on OCAU and thought I'd share http://www.supercars.net/PitLane?viewThrea...fID=1&tID=51523 BTW: T56 = gearbox not a Trust turbo.

Grab the ones you have, and head out to your local bolt specialist, i.e. if your in Adelaide try Coventry Fasteners.

Most large libraries should keep copies of all the major rags, make a few calls, is there an Adelaide city library or something like that (i only know Melbournes).