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Posts posted by Oosh
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What's postage like from Australia to Bulgaria?I manage a metallurgy laboratory.If someone can arrange for sample of the substrate (a gram is plenty), I'll have an analysis back within 24 hours as to whether it contains any platinum group metals (Pt, Pd, etc) or indeed anything other than what's in a normal s/steel alloy.
Cheers
Gav
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Got some more goodies for you...
Awesome fun I'm sure, but I'm not so sure I'd be "skiing" behind it like that...
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Those of you who play CS, and what not, online should get a laugh out of this.
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Oh and on reading some of that thread, it wasn't insured! :Oops:
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Jeezus! That shot of the bubbling mess left on the road and FMIC core sitting there is nasty!
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I think they top out around 200rwkw, but i suggest you use the search function, rb20det turbo options is quite a popular topic...
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Chris32 has one, or so he thinks, as he bought it under the impression it was a 2530. Provided you get the T3 flanged item it should be fine, but i suggest you do a search and/or get in touch with Chris.
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Go to http://www.joshmadison.com/software/ and download "Convert" great tool for that and MANY other unit conversions, more than you'll ever need / use.
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This from NS.com
Link: http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=101300Here are some facts on Metallic Substrate Catalytic Converters:There are now several suppliers of this type of product in Austalia.
Metallic Substrates are superior to traditional Ceramic Substrates which have been used by the previous "name brands" of high flow catalytic converters. This is because the walls of the substrate are thinner, allowing greater flow.
Metallic Substrate Catalytic Converters flow up to 50% more than their traditional competitors.
Catalytic Converter substrates are coated with material which produces changes in the gases which pass over them. The more cells per square inch the more effective is the catalytic process because there is more surface area.
Magic Cats are constructed with a 300 cell per square inch metallic substrate, and 304 stainless steel body.
For legal reasons in California, USA only, catalytic converters fitted there must be stamped with a code which indicates the manufacturer of the product. The code should be stamped after the letters CA. followed by the year of manufacture.
The letters "xx" are not a manufacturers code. The stamping of CAxx on a catalytic converter means nothing.
Any catalytic converter which is not a direct fit replacement for the original will need modification to fit a vehicle's exhaust, or the exhaust modified to fit the cat.
MAGIC is a registered trademark.
Magic Cats have been independently flow tested against major competitors products.
Magic Performance provide a range of products to fit 3 inch, 3 1/2 inch and 4 inch exhausts.
Magic Performance is the only supplier of Metallic Substrate Catalytic Converters in Australia with inlet and outlet of four inches.
If you have any questions about extreme flow catalytic converters, phone Magic Performance on 02 99391644 or post here. We actually know what we are doing, not just selling the product.
Cheers,
The team at MAGIC PERFORMANCE
Still nothing to say they're street legal for Aus though, tempted to ask him...
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Dunno about the four lights personally, hehe i guess im not a big fan of stating the obvious. My thinking was keeping it along the lines of the banner of the forum. But as with anything, comes down to personal taste
Trying to please everyone is mighty difficult when you start including colours, symbols and images etc, so Boof is probably right; the best option would probably be to stick with the original www.skylinesaustralia.com sticker that Miss33 got - it fits the brief perfectly; discreet, simple and not over the top. Maybe just done in the "updated" skyline typeface?
Anyway, i dont even have a skyline so what i think doesn't matter LOL
No, i definately want something a little more than white text, even if it's just a little colour without symbols...
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True, the RB is more of a rev-happy race engine, the 2JZ is a hi-po street engine, for a street driven car extra displacement is nice (hence the run on RB30 conv. atm).maybe the way the power delivery/rev limit? (engine design)there must be a reason 2jzgte never been used in JGTC while rb26dett GTR win more than any other engine equiped car.
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I think those ones are under the hood, in that black box near your battery.]']hi alli think i've blown a fuse for the passenger side driving lights + high beam
where can this fuse be located???
is it's under the dash ??
but which 1??
much help appreciated
If there are under the dash then look on the back of the little fuse cover, it's all mapped out what fuse does what on there.
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Yeah, but why the RB26? Don't get me wrong i love em, but a 2JZGTE would have bolted in MUCH easier, or a 1.5JZGTE (2JZGE block with the 1JZGTE head) is a bloody good setup too, either is not to be sneezed at and with the money saved from a full conversion like that... ah well.thats one tough looking soarer, someones spent big on that one... -
oops RADIUS not Diameter (bugger)
the RADIUS of my wheel is only 315mm
so I now get
6300 = ( T * 4.111 * 1000) / 315 ) = 482.72Nm
that seems reasonable to me - based on seat of the pants experiance
There we go!
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Actually that 3000 odd figure is Newton Millimetres so thats even stonger! :confused:
We have taken in to account the gearbox, he said 4th gear, and that's 1:1, 1 engine revolution = 1 tail shaft revolution. So we can ignore it.
The problems in the radius bit i think too.
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4th gear is 1:1, and the diff is 4.11:1 (i believe) so R = 4.11?
But using that formula and your figures ends up with 3173Nm! :headspin:
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Shorter inlet path = better throttle respsonse....http://crazymax999.web.infoseek.co.jp/publ...html/rts039.jpg
the way the cooler is mounted seems to be very popular with the drift crowd.
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Nice. Like the 2nd one a lot.
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3" screen, can't see why youd bother, esp. when you can get one of these for $999. 6.5" screen, reverse camera, etc...
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- Anyone got an idea on the font of that GTR, esp. the GT bit?
And the "Nissan" and "Skyline" text too???
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So long as any profit was donated to the site, i can't see why not, but you'd best ask "the board".i was going to do this awhile back but never got around to it. i know you can get them through the site, but people have had problems getting a response upon requesting them. would sau have a problem if we made our own? -
If Nissan quote you any more than $100, might want to consider Splitfires, but obviously with Splitfires you'll need to buy 6...
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Ditto.What is the condition & colour of the floor mats ? Any pics ?
The Right Combination
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers
Posted
1. & 2. I don't know enough about to comment, my TPS isn't setup quite right either.
3. Adjusting the CAS affects your base timing, DO NOT put it 100% one way or the other, you could end up running a dangerous amount of advance (therefore pinging) or retard you timing way too far and have a car well down on power.
If you've adjusted it already, then for the moment put it in the middle, try to see if there's any marks, from the bolts, on the housing to indicate where it's sat most of the time.
If you own a timing light and know what to do then set your car up to run 15deg if it's a manual, 20deg if it's an auto, otherwise take it to a shop and get them to do it.
As for code 34, yes that is knock sensor, check their wiring is ok. Further code values can be found here: http://www.rb20det.com/ecudd.html