Oosh
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Posts posted by Oosh
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Some good things have been said about this setup, and only $35 delivered.
http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=79371
More discussion on it here:
http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=73375
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Feel for you buddy, I spoke to Rowdy on the weekend and he mentioned after talking to you it helped him diagnose why his RB26 GTST "sounded like a truck" to use his words.MMMMmmmmm. Fortunately the GTR has steel wheels as that's a $12K engine, but the RB25DETT was only rebuilt 10K before at a cost of $3K plus my 25 hours of labour.
After stacking the GTR he's not had a great run lately, I hope his Fireblade stays in one piece!
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This thread has me very interested... How much could I pick up a 2nd hand RB25 turbo for? Will it be laggier? how much more power, or will it require a bit of tuning?..
$300 - $450
Yes, slightly.
Assuming the basic, exhaust, FMIC, etc. 15-30rwkw.
To get the most and safely, yes.
The biggest advantage is you'll get more power on and RB25 Turbo @ 7psi than you will on a RB20 @ 10psi so you're not stressing it as much, when turbo exhaust wheels let go they don't always just end up as rattly bits in the cat, they can go back up your exhaust ports and in to the engine, happened to GTRGeoff & RowdyR32 just recently, not pleasant...
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You need to use a wheel / boss combination that's compatable with HICAS.
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Interesting. If you're using a formula, could you post it up as I'm curious, or is it a look-up table?
Cheers.
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Make sure you do it, I've killed my radiator, not fun. Plus I'm gonna convert to thermos to keep my mind at ease. As for HD mounts check out Nengun they might have some Nismo items that suit, I'm sure the RB30 2WD ones are much the same as RB20 items or something in the range will suit...gdayhave a 1988 r31 skyline
put in two brand new engine mounts bout 10 months ago
few months ago did conversion on car
rb25 head. left the stock bottom rb30 end. chucked the rb30 head.
small turbo so comes on straight away.
anyway it's a torquey little bugger. seems that the 3rd gear burnout last week shifted the donk a bit and pushed the fan into the radiator. not too much damage but would like to make sure it doesnt happen again
what are my options people
cheers in advance,
mark
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Does it just have that one plug/socket or is there another on the other side?
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I should have added previously, my diff wines too, but i can only hear it when i have my quiet muffler on. Solution: get a noisy exhaust.
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hello ash. how are you?
weather is really gloomy at the moment isnt it, pi$$ing down here at St. Kilda.
Yeap, weather is shithouse here, but i just had a nice Schnitz @ Mawson Lake's pub so I'me feeling good!
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It's only been a week, let SK take his time and do it right, so when the results come in they're beyond a shadow of a doubt.
I also think having BATMBL there is a good idea so there's at least ONE of the concerned parties there to "verify" things, if you could get someone from Magic on board too that'd be even better, but my gut says that wont happen.
Good on you SK for taking your own time out to test these things for the community.
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Only 1.4 per day here, i was a lurker for about my first 6 months so the averages is steadily climbing but i have a LOONG way to go.
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Yeah, I'd say in your case a higher spring tension is probably necessary, for those looking at electronic variants make sure you give the Jaycar IEBC a good look in, far cheaper than name-brand stuff and arguably more effect once setup (i'd love to see a comparo though) however you DO have to build it yourself and set it up on a dyno for optimal results.
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You should always check the gapping on plugs. I bought -11 NGKs (i.e. 1.1 gap) and there were obvious differences across the six.
LW.
:werd:
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Easy way to check wheel bearings, jack up the car, then attempt wobble the wheels like so.
Looking from the rear end on say this is your wheels, axle and diff:
| |--x--| |
From side on, grab the top and bottom of the wheel, then pull in opposite directions back and forth trying to make them do this:
/ /--x--
or this:
--x--/ /
If you get anything but the slightest movement then you're in trouble.
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Or a $12.50 original Nissan one...i know im going to get in trouble for this, but ive been wondering for a while....why not just use the $29 ones from super cheap auto (they look exactly the same, even on close inspection!!)?? (ducks in readyness)
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Yeap, you want a Normally Closed 12V solenoid, R33 GTST ones qualify, which is why i used one on my IEBC install.
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Wrong forum. Try the "Whole Cars" for sale section, this is parts.
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I believe RowdyR32 has them in his RB26 GTS-T, he put some respectable track times down in them and his ride comfort was still pretty good, far better than my Tein HA's (but what doesn't have better ride quality than them?
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Yeap, that happened in my GST-T, turned out to be dodgy wire between the alt and batt so it was recharging properly. Power steering used to shut off and some REALLY inconvenient times (mid-way through a corner).HeyAnother possible cause includes the battery voltage. If the voltage drops below a certain level the power steering shuts off and hence hicas light . Go to batteryworld they check the battery under load for free.
The battery should be beween 13-14 volts when running no accessories
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So he does, I'm an idiot, post culled.He has a DFA not an IEBC:cheers: -
Yeah get him online, some SAU clutch specials would be nice, oh and I'm sure he'd be great to have around anyways.Yeh the Purple one, he is the owner of Adelaide Clutch Services(Xtreame) believe that thing has some go in it, My mate works for him, and he drove to Melb or Syd in it for Autosalon, Not sure if he's a SAU member, I will get onto it!!!! :uh-huh:
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Ignore this post
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I don't believe it's a matter of getting more load points, but taking the 20 you have and "stretching" them out, by increasing the "distance" between points on the AFM axis of your map.That looks interesting, SK, so to get more load points out of the PFC, which values need to be changed?I doubt you need to alter all of them, perhaps the top 5, obviously once something as fundamental the "scale" on you map changes the associated fueling values will need to change also.
I hope i made some sense there, if not, ignore me and wait for SK to ride to the rescue!
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Thanks Bl4cK32, i may well be in touch, could you tell me where you got them so i can price up the others? I've been on Nengun and can get Nismo mounts, 2x engine & 1x gearbox, for ~$315 (+GST) delivered.
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I found a good cheap boost controller for $22!!!
in Engines & Forced Induction
Posted
Until i see boost graphs, I wouldn't give it the time of day, and even then without an INDEPENDANT reviewer any claims one way or the other wouldn't hold a great deal of water.
simark87 keep doing your thing, majority of people on here are smart enough to ignore that sort of post, and as you say there's 12p of positive discussion here to back you up.