Oosh

You need to use a wheel / boss combination that's compatable with HICAS.

Interesting. If you're using a formula, could you post it up as I'm curious, or is it a look-up table? Cheers.

Make sure you do it, I've killed my radiator, not fun. Plus I'm gonna convert to thermos to keep my mind at ease. As for HD mounts check out Nengun they might have some Nismo items that suit, I'm sure the RB30 2WD ones are much the same as RB20 items or something in the range will suit...

Does it just have that one plug/socket or is there another on the other side?

I should have added previously, my diff wines too, but i can only hear it when i have my quiet muffler on. Solution: get a noisy exhaust.

Yeap, weather is shithouse here, but i just had a nice Schnitz @ Mawson Lake's pub so I'me feeling good!

It's only been a week, let SK take his time and do it right, so when the results come in they're beyond a shadow of a doubt. I also think having BATMBL there is a good idea so there's at least ONE of the concerned parties there to "verify" things, if you could get someone from Magic on board too that'd be even better, but my gut says that wont happen. Good on you SK for taking your own time out to test these things for the community.

Only 1.4 per day here, i was a lurker for about my first 6 months so the averages is steadily climbing but i have a LOONG way to go.

Yeah, I'd say in your case a higher spring tension is probably necessary, for those looking at electronic variants make sure you give the Jaycar IEBC a good look in, far cheaper than name-brand stuff and arguably more effect once setup (i'd love to see a comparo though) however you DO have to build it yourself and set it up on a dyno for optimal results.

:werd:

Easy way to check wheel bearings, jack up the car, then attempt wobble the wheels like so. Looking from the rear end on say this is your wheels, axle and diff: | |--x--| | From side on, grab the top and bottom of the wheel, then pull in opposite directions back and forth trying to make them do this: / /--x-- or this: --x--/ / If you get anything but the slightest movement then you're in trouble.

Or a $12.50 original Nissan one...

Yeap, you want a Normally Closed 12V solenoid, R33 GTST ones qualify, which is why i used one on my IEBC install.

Wrong forum. Try the "Whole Cars" for sale section, this is parts.

I believe RowdyR32 has them in his RB26 GTS-T, he put some respectable track times down in them and his ride comfort was still pretty good, far better than my Tein HA's (but what doesn't have better ride quality than them? )

Yeap, that happened in my GST-T, turned out to be dodgy wire between the alt and batt so it was recharging properly. Power steering used to shut off and some REALLY inconvenient times (mid-way through a corner).

So he does, I'm an idiot, post culled.

Yeah get him online, some SAU clutch specials would be nice, oh and I'm sure he'd be great to have around anyways.

Ignore this post

I don't believe it's a matter of getting more load points, but taking the 20 you have and "stretching" them out, by increasing the "distance" between points on the AFM axis of your map. I doubt you need to alter all of them, perhaps the top 5, obviously once something as fundamental the "scale" on you map changes the associated fueling values will need to change also. I hope i made some sense there, if not, ignore me and wait for SK to ride to the rescue!

Thanks Bl4cK32, i may well be in touch, could you tell me where you got them so i can price up the others? I've been on Nengun and can get Nismo mounts, 2x engine & 1x gearbox, for ~$315 (+GST) delivered.