Oosh

Engine mounts, I'll be replacing these for sure, now i have it in my head that RB series mounts are common across the range, so i could use RB30 items? I know Rowdy32's RB20 ones, including the bracket, bolted up to the side of his RB26 and dropped back in to his GTST no worries... Also, can i realistically replace these WITHOUT removing the whole engine, ideally without even needing a hoist, maybe lifting the engine up by the sump like i did to get those shots, or am i playing with myself? Gearbox mounts, I will have to have a better look at them, but if i remember correctly they look something like this CHASSIS ___ ______ ___ | | __ | | |_|R| |R|_| _______| |_______ GEARBOX Side-on, with R="rubber bits", so it would be arresting front-back movement, that cable setup might be a good idea (for my piece of mind if nothing else). Fan, i still can't see how it's getting out of shape, but then I'm not in a position to apply the sort of forces rotating it at it's usual few thousand RPM. It's not overtly damaged, and nothing came up and hit it, water or otherwise. All of that said i still don't trust it.

Just got sent this and thought I'd share.

Okay, lifted the car up by the sump (found a paver exactly right size/shape) and there's definately some damage to the engine mounts, passenger side in particular. But, are they bad enough to need replacing? They certainly don't look like they could allow the type of movement necessary in this case. I've attached pictures of the damaged rad & the engine mounts. The gearbox mounts are a bit "crazed", in that dry rubber type way, but appear to be solid. I need to look over them better tonight if i get the chance. Now on to the fan, since my rad is completely useless i can't safely get the car up to temp to test it, so after i cooked tea i slapped the fan in the oven @ ~100C. However, I still couldn't get the hub to bend any...

Seems to be ones SK uses: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...658&postcount=5

I did jack up slightly from where the engine and bell hosing mate, the engine moved a BIT then the car started to rise too, but i'll try it at the sump with some wood too (it's dented anyways).

Been giving this some thought, the fan's viscous coupling only engages when it gets warm enough yes? So i need to get it hot and then see if it wobbles about, I figure i can slap it in the oven to do this, but at what temperature, 70-80 C ?

I yanked on it pretty hard and couldn't get the thing to budge even a little bit, how would you go about testing that?

EDIT: Now that I've had a better look the mounts DO have some damage, see post #8. Okay, so basically my radiator died after meeting with my fan, I've given the rad a good shove and can't see anyway it fell in to fan, and the fan itself is secure, so in my mind that leaves engine movement as a likely culprit. Also the major damage is on the drivers side of the rad, which is consistant with the direction the engine tries to move. Now I've been under the car and the mounts aren't obviously split, so I'm at a bit of a loose end, there's no point my replacing the radiator til i know what's going on as I'll only munch another one... I've considered converting to thermofans but that doesn't solve the root cause of this problem. Any ideas on it, and ways to test the mounts, would be much appreciated. Cheers.

I went to Gold Class with a bunch of people to see the latest Star Wars, but after knocking back some food and a bottle of wine with the chick next to me, the comfy chairs and company distracted me from the movie. I can't see much point in GC and probably wont bother with it again.

Does anyone know this for certain?And did you ever find out if the EL thermo's setup infact bolts up no worries?

I just did this on my car last weekend, swapped coil-overs around that is, and will add a couple of my own notes: 1. You don't HAVE to remove the wheels to do this if you don't want too, just jack it up high enough (I highly recommend you use jack stands), and for the fronts just turn the wheels to hard lock and you can get at it all fine. This has the added bonus of making it easier to manipulate things for aligning, as mentioned it can be a pain, the weight of the wheel makes it easier to pull down, and a jack under the wheel ( coz the car's on stands remember ) to push it up. 2. Crack/Loosen the bottom (big) nut BEFORE the top two, nothing to stop you removing it entirely as it will just sit on the rod, these can require some force to shift so it's easier not having the whole thing flop around.

Yeap, that stuff got me through after my appendix BURST! Saved me from needing to take any Vitamin M thankfully.

For those interested, Autospeed ran a two-part Technical Article on the IEBC, pretty sure they're free access (good advertising). Part 1 - http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_2541/article.html Part 2 - http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_2542/article.html

I got mine out a few years back, went under a general, and had all 4 out in one go. Only way to do it.I was sweet pretty much from day one, no major swelling or bruising, just couldn't open my mouth all the way. But it all depends on how heavily impacted your teeth are, mine were fairly minor.

Interested in pricing on RB20DET item + Hand controller too. Cheers. P.S. Why not just post the price in the THREAD so you don't have to keep PM-ing?

Finally got a couple of photos from my housemate of when i ran over the water main.

Like he said, just unplug them one by one, if the one you unplug is GOOD the car will sound even WORSE, so plug it back in and move on to another until you get to one that when unplugged makes no difference, that's the cylinder that's down. But don't just assume it's the coil, pull the spark plug out and check it (is if fouled? clean it and see if things improve), swap a pack around and see if the dropped cylinder follows the coil, if not to loom could be damaged, etc. If it's a dud coilpack buy a new one, or if you intend to run high-boost in the future maybe think about a set of SplitFires (~$650).

we're now stickied thanks to Joel, and Deluxe a "possibilty" you "might be keen"... don't go over-commiting!

My thoughts also...

Add me to the list, got it on all FOUR windows, white strips about an inch wide of light scratches. I have 4 replacement pieces of glass but haven't put them in until a) I find out how to stop it happening again. B)I get them from my parents in Melb. c) I can be arsed.

That explains why i could always smell your car so bad when behind it in cruises, just thought it was rich Nissan running, but obviously something more. Sorry to hear that mate, hopefully you get off without hemorrhaging cash too severely...

We'll/I'll organise a meet and maybe cruise for it closer to the date, so if people post to register interest (or just subscribe to the thread) then they'll get an automatic heads-up.

Top-left of the fuse box in the cabin, if you don't have that but do have a R32 ecu as well as the engine you should be able to wire a Consult device directly in to the ECU. I'm not 100% on how to do it but there's an ECU pinout here: http://www.rb20det.com/ecupinout.html and #21 & #22 look promising, I'm sure others will know...

Yeap the A31 one has an older ECU with a 128Kbit map, the R32 has a newer 256Kbit map.

POLL - TO DECIDE THE DAY HERE! Firstly all the info. on the event can be found here: http://www.rallyofsa.com.au/ Cost is $26 / day or $48 for both. I'm planning to head up to this with a few friends, and it looks like some of your fellow SAU-ers are in too, so at this stage I'm thinking a meetup before hand and cruise to the locale is in order. More details to come, such as which day(s) to go up, closer to the dates. If you wanna discuss thing here then feel free, or if you just wanna be a lurker for now, subscribe and keep an eye on the thread for my updates. Cheers, - Ash.