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Oosh

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Posts posted by Oosh

  1. I lot of the problems people are having on here relate to simply not being methodical about the build / install / config process. I know it's exciting, you've got a new toy, at a bargain price. But you need to read and re-read the documentation, don't rush things, approach it like the chippy's old adage "measure twice, cut once". (please don't cut your IEBC :rofl:)

    That said, I think the Autospeed/Jaycar documentation IS somewhat lacking, it's aimed at Electronics enthusiasts with Cars, not Car enthusiasts who can hold a soldering iron, which seem to be the majority of its consumers.

    Personally i had very few dramas, and am very happy with the product, one day i'll get around to better integrating my install rather than having to manually switch it ON/OFF by earthing it to the cigarette lighter. :P

  2. 1. SR20DET Red or Black Top approx price - 3500?

    RB20DET - 2000?

    the price u paid for the engine conversion + the gazelle

    u can buy a S13 ca18det easily

    which already have better brakes +LSD + heaps better chassis

    When I replaced my RB20DET (since i bought the car knowingly with a dead engine) it cost $800, but that was minus turbo, loom, and ECU. But with coil packs and all sensors. But i had my helicoper mechanic mate do most the work swapping it over for Bundy. :)

    If you want to do the project RELATIVELY cheap (no project is truly cheap but that's not why you do it) then I'd go the CA18DET, if they did in fact come with CA20's then you might have some luck with an easier fitting. If you're genuinely interested in doing a PROJECT, have some tools, and are willing to spend the time on it then go nuts.

    But if you don't then you'll just be paying for someone else's junk to live at your house.

    In that case I'd go with what everyone else says, and buy a S13 CA18DET, maybe one with some battle damage i.e. dead engine / stolen recovered / stacked in the arse (but good chassis), and do the bare minimum to get it running. Then strip it bare and cut sick! :)

    Another alternative to bolt a dodgy turbo setup to whatever's in the S12 and run it til it dies. :(

  3. yep I have photos of it - I wish I could make a mould ..... mind you, I might be selling my car soon(ish) .... thinking of getting an R34 GTT - I am so sick of the little luxuries my car doesn't have, like climate control, remote boot release, traction control. Don't flame me, but I am seriously considering tiptronic auto (which I would get strenthened and add a high-stall to, of course).
    That's it, join the RB side of the force, leave your SR behind... :rofl:
  4. Dude.. ebay GO.. I looked into this for a friend the other day..  

    http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...4548416336&rd=1

    http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...4548952527&rd=1

    If your looking to make a statement:

    http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...6530733022&rd=1

    Im so addicted to ebay,....

    I think I'd rather a new one cause I'll keep it for a while and know i have a good fit, but that WWI item is certainly tempting :rant:

    Thanks for the otehr suggestions guys, I'll look in to it.

  5. Okay, i have some spare rims now, next thing on the Drift checklist is a helmet.

    I just want something that's gonna do the job and not cost the earth.

    Suggestions on what and, primarily, where to buy would be MUCH appreciated.

    P.S. Forgive me if this has been discussed before but a quick search didn't turn up much of relevance.

  6. Ahh, what is the normal manula diff ratio? Ive got a spreadhseet at home with all that guff, is it 4.11 or something.

    I may try to track down an auto diff when getting mine re-shimmed, didnt realise they were a different ratio. Seriously who cares if you only get a top speed of 240km/h, there arent too many places inlcuding the straights at PI/Sandown where you get up to that speed anyway.

    I don't have anything concrete to back it up but everything I've read says manual = 4.11 and auto = 4.33.

    My car WAS an auto (g'box) and converted to manual, and my speedo reads high leading me belive the diff ratio is different. However, it reads higher than the 5% you'd expect from a manual g'box mated to an auto diff, so perhaps i have other issues (such as the speedo gear thingy) causing (or further compounding) the error.

  7. No offence but if i remember correctly this GTR needed to have the engine fixed as it was on its way out?

    If this isn't the car then i appologise...

    Just that i remember it on J-Spec or Imports101 i think it was

    I can personally vouch for the fact the engine runs, and runs well, nothing needs fixing on it from what i could tell.

    Rowdy's a good bloke, and well in to the Skyline Club in Melb, he's not about to go stooging someone over this sale and giving himself a bad name.

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