Oosh

Well we've almost got 500 posts, but I know of a thread on www.overclockers.com.au that has almost 22,000 posts!

S15's don't have climate control? ROFL! Even my '89 R32 has it, sure it has a user interface designed by the same tards who did the one on my POS Motorola phone, but it still has it!

Mine whines, RowdyR32's whines, they just whine!

I had this exact problem, low voltage causing the power steering to switch off (often halfway thru a corner!), turned out to be a dodgy cable between the alternator and battery.

You guys have been having your own little party in this thread hey?

I lot of the problems people are having on here relate to simply not being methodical about the build / install / config process. I know it's exciting, you've got a new toy, at a bargain price. But you need to read and re-read the documentation, don't rush things, approach it like the chippy's old adage "measure twice, cut once". (please don't cut your IEBC ) That said, I think the Autospeed/Jaycar documentation IS somewhat lacking, it's aimed at Electronics enthusiasts with Cars, not Car enthusiasts who can hold a soldering iron, which seem to be the majority of its consumers. Personally i had very few dramas, and am very happy with the product, one day i'll get around to better integrating my install rather than having to manually switch it ON/OFF by earthing it to the cigarette lighter.

When I replaced my RB20DET (since i bought the car knowingly with a dead engine) it cost $800, but that was minus turbo, loom, and ECU. But with coil packs and all sensors. But i had my helicoper mechanic mate do most the work swapping it over for Bundy. If you want to do the project RELATIVELY cheap (no project is truly cheap but that's not why you do it) then I'd go the CA18DET, if they did in fact come with CA20's then you might have some luck with an easier fitting. If you're genuinely interested in doing a PROJECT, have some tools, and are willing to spend the time on it then go nuts. But if you don't then you'll just be paying for someone else's junk to live at your house. In that case I'd go with what everyone else says, and buy a S13 CA18DET, maybe one with some battle damage i.e. dead engine / stolen recovered / stacked in the arse (but good chassis), and do the bare minimum to get it running. Then strip it bare and cut sick! Another alternative to bolt a dodgy turbo setup to whatever's in the S12 and run it til it dies.

What are the RT215's like in the wet?

Nice!

That's it, join the RB side of the force, leave your SR behind...

My TEIN HA's need to go to the doctor, I've heard good things about these people in QLD (http://www.shockreco.com.au/reco.htm), but if there's somewhere local I'd love to hear it. Cheers, - Ash.

How'd it go JapCab, my HA's are pretty rooted up front, I'm interested to hear about your experience. Cheers.

Looks like they're in the process of upgrading their site, but http://www.sssautomotive.com.au/nissan.htm usually have them for $1000.

I think I'd rather a new one cause I'll keep it for a while and know i have a good fit, but that WWI item is certainly tempting Thanks for the otehr suggestions guys, I'll look in to it.

Okay, i have some spare rims now, next thing on the Drift checklist is a helmet. I just want something that's gonna do the job and not cost the earth. Suggestions on what and, primarily, where to buy would be MUCH appreciated. P.S. Forgive me if this has been discussed before but a quick search didn't turn up much of relevance.

All done, cheers Ghosty!

I don't have anything concrete to back it up but everything I've read says manual = 4.11 and auto = 4.33. My car WAS an auto (g'box) and converted to manual, and my speedo reads high leading me belive the diff ratio is different. However, it reads higher than the 5% you'd expect from a manual g'box mated to an auto diff, so perhaps i have other issues (such as the speedo gear thingy) causing (or further compounding) the error.

If the gearing concerns you you can always fit a R32 auto diff (4.33) to offset it.

Fair nuf. Can be a tad noisy that exhaust.

Hubs and stud patterns are the same, GTR's run different offsets.

I can personally vouch for the fact the engine runs, and runs well, nothing needs fixing on it from what i could tell. Rowdy's a good bloke, and well in to the Skyline Club in Melb, he's not about to go stooging someone over this sale and giving himself a bad name.

Where abouts, and was i behaving?

:whip: That's what happens.

I'd be HIGHLY doubtful, but the interior dimensions aren't too different (R33 = 1820x1415x1090, R32 = 1805x1400x1090, LxWxH), but the mounting points and just getting it to "sit" properly woud still be troublesome I think.

I'll try to remember to check mine tonight for you.