Oosh
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Posts posted by Oosh
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I'll let u in on a secret.....
left hand wax on, right hand wax off
Joel does a mean job too Sure thing Mr Miagi!
I just can't be bothered even if it's gonna cost me a couple of hundred.
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I had my car detailed by Advanced Auto Finesse when I first got it. Was very happy with it They are in the City Dismantlers Complex (8260 2253).
Can't remember how much he charges but I know his prices are reasonable.
Can anyone recommend any other places?
The 32 is a bit "swirly" and "water spotted" for my liking, and I'll be f@rked if I'm slaving over, plus i have a pretty sh!t track record with polishing, etc. :Oops:
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What are splitfires?
Aftermarket coilpacks.
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I must admit i considered painting my cooler for sleeper reasons, but i was going to mask up the fins and just paint the flat bars black (bar & plate cooler), I figured that'd make it pretty dark but have minimal chance of affecting the cooling.
Now i just plain can't be bothered, there's more important things the car needs doing first.
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I could find out more for you....
I know a fair few people in port pirie....
Cheers, any info. appreciated, I was just hoping someone had come across him previously...
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I wrote this down a little while ago, have a read but maybe let some of the other more knowledgable forum users look over it and pick out anything I've missed, which is entirely possible.
DISCLAIMER: While i have performed this myself and believe the below to be correct i am NOT a mechanic, I'm a backyard tinkerer, you do it all at your own risk. Just take it slowly and be methodical, don't rush anything, but if you're not confident in your abilities resign yourself to paying a mechanic to do it for you.1. Disconnect power to the injectors (pretty sure they're grouped in to 3's and there's 2 plugs power them just trace the wires back and unplug).
2. Pull the coil packs off the spark plugs, leave the coils on those 2 rails in groups of 3, just undo the rails and lift.
3. Check your spark plugs now if you haven't already.
If there's nothing obviously wrong with the plugs put them back in and move on.
4. Pull all the rubber boots off the 6 coil packs, be careful the spings don't fall out the end, it CAN happen.
5. IMPORTANT! Use something to mark the position of Crank Angle Sensor (a blob of whiteout overlapping the CAS and timing cover works).
6. Undo the 3 bolts and pull the CAS off.
7. Rest the coil packs so they're tips are a short distance from, but NOT touching, the head or anywhere that's well earthed.
8. Turn the ignition to ON (don't try and start it!).
9. Take the CAS in your hand with the little "stick" facing you and rotate that stick ANTI-CLOCKWISE.
You should get sparks leaping from the tips of the coils to the rocker cover one by one over and over. If indiviual coils spark sometimes and not others make sure there's a clear and clean path for it to spark to and from and that you're not turning it clockwise as it sparks unpredicatbly when you do.
To put it all back in, turn off the ignition, and go in reverse taking care with CAS, manipulate the stick until it slots over and the whole thing slides on, don't force it, then line those marks you made back up otherwise your timing will be out. Plug the injectors back in etc etc.
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This is taken from Dans Data, in specific relation to computer heatsinks but it amounts to the same thing, linkage
Is black better?Recently, as part of our electronics course, we learned about the properties of heat sinks. The course notes (and exam mark schemes) claim that to make a heat sink more efficient it should be painted matte black.
I understand that this would make it more efficient, but my friend and I wondered why CPU heat sinks are not painted matte black? Most other heat sinks (attached to amplifiers etc) seem to be painted in this fashion, so why not CPU heat sinks?
Peter
Answer: Your course notes are right, and they're wrong.
A black object will, all things being equal, radiate heat better than one of any other colour. However, painting a shiny heat sink black may do nothing, or less than nothing, for its thermal performance, because the layer of paint acts as an insulator. The black colour must be an integral quality of the heat sink material, or a very thin, thermally conductive layer on the outside; black-anodised aluminium is a perfect example of a good black heat sink material. It's possible to put a useful thermal black patina on copper by putting it in a hot sodium hydroxide and sodium chloride solution bath (also useful for disposing of corpses), but that's neither a quick nor an easy process, so people usually only bother doing that for copper that's being used as a thermal absorber, as in solar water heaters, not on heat sinks.
This is because the colour of the heat sink matters less and less the more air you move over it. If the sink's hanging in vacuum (like the heat radiators on spacecraft that stop their own waste heat from boiling them) then it must be matte black; if it's sitting on earth being cooled by convection then it should be matte black; if it's got a bunch of forced air cooling from an attached fan then it doesn't matter a great deal what colour it is.
Again, all things being equal, a shiny aluminium heat sink with a fan on it won't work quite as well as a black one - but the difference will be small enough that the extra marketability of the shiny heat sink is likely to be the deciding factor.
A shiny fan-cooled copper heat sink, which can't easily be made black without pointless insulative paint, will work better than an aluminium one with the same dimensions, thanks to copper's rather higher thermal conductivity.
For those who scim, the important line in there is: "if it's got a bunch of forced air cooling from an attached fan then it doesn't matter a great deal what colour it is." ... and while the fan doesn't really apply here your intercooler should have a fair bit of air going over it when you're on boost.
By painting it you're likely to make things worse. The oft used GTR example only holds out because I'm sure Nissan were very careful with what paint they use and how they apply it, a backyard job is gonna have a MUCH harder time replicatiing those results.
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probably dirty contacts.
my experience: passenger and rear passenger door controls (4door) sometimes dont work. had to clean the contacts. good thing my driver side switches that controls all 4 windows never needed a clean (yet).
They're not hard to get at, at least in a R32, I cleaned them a few months ago coz mine were playing up a bit.
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Are you certain it's just No6, I have a miss @ idle i haven't completely eliminated, but cleaning the AAC & AFM helped. There's a lot of debate on what to use on AFMs, electrical contact cleaner is safest but didn't do the job for me, many recommend Nulon Break Cleaner and I can add my endorsement too.
I used the contact cleaner give all the associated sensors' plugs and sockets a clean too. It's better but not perfect, I also thnk i need to further adjust the TPS.
A bad CAS can also cause lumpy idle apparently, i have two and swapping them around made no difference, but might be worth you looking at.
There's an AWFUL lot of threads and info. on bad idle on theres forums so go for a search and BIG read up.
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I need to keep the standard R32 GTR airbox in my car, has anyone played around with these to improve the air flow?
The dyno killed 11kWs straight up with between running just the AFMs (unfiltered) and running the airbox.
Drive it around, get it all hot, stop-start traffic, etc, etc. And i think you'll find the air box will win out.
You can try and set up some CAI ducting to supply more air to the box's inlet to get some gains, plenty of threads on that around.
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Seems like that is what mine is, as it doesn't matter how much boost you wind up, it seems to run out of puff at around 200rwkw. The response if awesome though, very little lag
Mine made 200rwkw at 1.0bar, and has made 205rwkw at 1.3 bar - but at 1.3bar there is a extra 40rwkw at 100kph, so it gives it a big mid-range hit of power
Trying to work out if anything poses a restriction on my car at the moment, 210rwkw would be nice, even 220. Maybe with cams and cam gears it may get there
Do you have a dyno-graph? I was looking at a 2530 eventually but i think i'd be happy with those numbers if a gain in response was there with a 2510.
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Un;ike you weak South Australians i can deal with the cold in most cases, aclimatised you see...Ash, I would have thought the Victorian would be the person MOST likely to have a jumper in their car, but that's just me. If you saw all the crap in my boot at the end of Karts a jumper was about the only thing i didn't have in the car! Great Pics Guys.Sorry I Didnt Stick Around For The Whole Cruise.
Ill Be Keen For The Next One!
That's cool, and I'm proud you used my photo as your avatar!
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Does anyone know of a guy selling Imports who operates out of Port Pirie?
Got a friend looking at a 180SX and wanted to know if anyone had experiences or info. to share?
Cheers,
- Ash.
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Checked the ECU last night, and all is well, thanks Joel.
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for sure, multi-purpose cruises are great fun, and let people get to know each other.
Yea Noarlunga Hill was rather fun... :headspin:
I've just been told it's not Noarlunga but summin with a "lunga" on the end but who cares it was a hoot.
Oh and here are some photos
If anyone on the cruise wants the full 4MP versions (~1.5Mb) just send me a PM.Btw. Thanks for all the nice shots of my car Maxx, they're awesome and, i needed some.
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After the carting we went back thru the windy stuff, was good but i'd had enough hard steering after karting so didn't go so hard, after I had a nice "moment" at one of the turn offs
i realised i wasn't quite up to it then and there.Personally I prefer having something on the agenda instead of JUST a cruise, more interesting, but that's just me.
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I think the centre-cap on the Fords is larger than Skylines, so they will go on ok but there will be a gap around your centre-hub, meaning all the weight will rest on your studs which is bad.
Make sure you check this, if there IS a gap you can always get a collar machined up to fill it, but if you can try to put your wheels on his Ford if you can do a straight swap then you're sweet as else there's a problem (unless cause by calipers fouling or whatever).
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Phhffff... Thats not stretching, my 235/45/17 are on 9" wide wheels, theyre fine.
Had mine fitted today, feel heaps better than my old tyres (silverstone sport crap).
The guy at the shop said prices were going up by 5% today (1st of april). Not sure if he was just saying that to get me to order them quickly or if he was telling the truth.
Maybe stretching wasn't the right word, i meant if 275's aren't too wide for 9.5" rims, but think the only limitation is going to have them fit under the guards with the offset these wheels run.
But it's a moot point now, since the guy was sposed to bring them over to a mates on the weekend but never did, gotta chase him up now.
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Great day all round, esp. enjoyed Noarlunga hill
, and I'm immensely proud of the fact i got the go kart tyre smokin' even if it was a bit of a cheat/luck! I've got a couple of pics, nothin' special but, I'll get em up soon.
Looking forward to the next SAU-SA event!
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Nah, only the RB25 & SR20 ECU's need a extra daughter board to be chipped, do a Google for "BadBiki" if you want more info. RB20 ECU's and R32 RB26's (not sure about later models) can just have the EEPROM chip removed and re-written. And that sits under a factory "daughter-board".hey diesel,i read in another forum bout daughter boards,about taking off the restrictions on the a/f n rev limiter,is that what ur daughter board is?Thanks Oosh.ECU SOLD.
No worries, mate, I haven't opened it up yet or tested it out, but I'm sure it's sweet. Cheers.
And next time I'll get you on the Go-Kart track, or mess up and go drifting again like i did yesterday, either way!
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http://www.boostcruising.com/database/jour...ournalfile7.jpg
The orginal picture... Just so everyone knows...
Sure....
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Also this bit kinda makes most of your questions moot,
, I wish people would READ posts.... engine in pieces ...
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Just got a set of K104's put on today
235/45 $175 each
Hope they go better than the Sava 's I had. they were crap.
Hmmm @ these prices I hope somebody stocks the 275/40/17 's around here. Provided I can safely strectch them over 9.5" rims that'd be sweet.
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Cheers Mate...
No worries.
reversing beeper wtf!??!lol
Some one must have pulled mine out for me.
Yeah, tell me about it, RowdyR32 used to always gimme shit about it.
I think it might be a 4Dr thing, I can take you for a reverse in the truck on Sunday too
Joel does a mean job too 
i realised i wasn't quite up to it then and there.
Who remaps standrd R32 ECU's???
in Engines & Forced Induction
Posted
Anything over 200RWKW and i think you really need to be looking at a full aftermarket setup.