Oosh

Hey, this the same thing that was posted in the Vic section, and got closed... not that i really care.

My stock RB20 will go from ~20psi vacuum to 0psi in neutral so there IS a difference being made, but as mentioned there's not enough exhaust gases (to drive the turbine) being generated when free revving to produce "boost", they aren't directly related to RPM but load. Try www.howstuffworks.com for basic turbo info. and to gain an understanding of basics physics (relationships between power, energy, etc.) . Edit: For comparison a Supercharger WILL make boost when free revving, because it's hooked up to the crank and therefore affected by engine revs, it is consuming engine power (typically 10-20kw) to produce that pressure. But it WONT raise the pressure with load, which is why Turbo's are typically more efficient, giving you more power when you need it (when under greater load). HSW has plenty of info. on them too.

Remapped ECU's are defectable, it's just a lot easier to hide, plus once you hit the point you need a remap chances are you've got a host of mods that are technically defectable. A shit tune on a remap will blow up a car just as easily as a shit tune on an aftermarket setup. And if you stack it has to me PROVEN that a particular mod directly contributed to an accident for it to be held against you. Simply having more power isn't enough to hang you with, if you muck with your brakes, have incorrect wheel/suspension setups, etc. that's FAR more likely to get you in trouble.

No offence but I'd rather go with a business, I'm sure you understand, plus it really needs something in a way of a "restore", certainly more than a wash / polish.

On the older read Nissans, R32, S13, etc. the map is stored on a standard 256kbit EPROM, the software to manipulate maps is freely available on the net, and the electronics to burn it to a new chip is available for $60 upwards. Chips themselves are a few bucks. The tuning is just like any other product, just not quite as convenient as a lot of the types with hand-controllers, but you CAN get EPROM emulators to perform much the same thing. But they're pretty expensive.

Anything over 200RWKW and i think you really need to be looking at a full aftermarket setup.

Sure thing Mr Miagi! I just can't be bothered even if it's gonna cost me a couple of hundred.

Can anyone recommend any other places? The 32 is a bit "swirly" and "water spotted" for my liking, and I'll be f@rked if I'm slaving over, plus i have a pretty sh!t track record with polishing, etc. :Oops:

Aftermarket coilpacks.

I must admit i considered painting my cooler for sleeper reasons, but i was going to mask up the fins and just paint the flat bars black (bar & plate cooler), I figured that'd make it pretty dark but have minimal chance of affecting the cooling. Now i just plain can't be bothered, there's more important things the car needs doing first.

Cheers, any info. appreciated, I was just hoping someone had come across him previously...

I wrote this down a little while ago, have a read but maybe let some of the other more knowledgable forum users look over it and pick out anything I've missed, which is entirely possible.

This is taken from Dans Data, in specific relation to computer heatsinks but it amounts to the same thing, linkage For those who scim, the important line in there is: "if it's got a bunch of forced air cooling from an attached fan then it doesn't matter a great deal what colour it is." ... and while the fan doesn't really apply here your intercooler should have a fair bit of air going over it when you're on boost. By painting it you're likely to make things worse. The oft used GTR example only holds out because I'm sure Nissan were very careful with what paint they use and how they apply it, a backyard job is gonna have a MUCH harder time replicatiing those results.

They're not hard to get at, at least in a R32, I cleaned them a few months ago coz mine were playing up a bit.

Are you certain it's just No6, I have a miss @ idle i haven't completely eliminated, but cleaning the AAC & AFM helped. There's a lot of debate on what to use on AFMs, electrical contact cleaner is safest but didn't do the job for me, many recommend Nulon Break Cleaner and I can add my endorsement too. I used the contact cleaner give all the associated sensors' plugs and sockets a clean too. It's better but not perfect, I also thnk i need to further adjust the TPS. A bad CAS can also cause lumpy idle apparently, i have two and swapping them around made no difference, but might be worth you looking at. There's an AWFUL lot of threads and info. on bad idle on theres forums so go for a search and BIG read up.

Drive it around, get it all hot, stop-start traffic, etc, etc. And i think you'll find the air box will win out. You can try and set up some CAI ducting to supply more air to the box's inlet to get some gains, plenty of threads on that around.

Do you have a dyno-graph? I was looking at a 2530 eventually but i think i'd be happy with those numbers if a gain in response was there with a 2510.

Un;ike you weak South Australians i can deal with the cold in most cases, aclimatised you see... If you saw all the crap in my boot at the end of Karts a jumper was about the only thing i didn't have in the car! That's cool, and I'm proud you used my photo as your avatar!

Does anyone know of a guy selling Imports who operates out of Port Pirie? Got a friend looking at a 180SX and wanted to know if anyone had experiences or info. to share? Cheers, - Ash.

Checked the ECU last night, and all is well, thanks Joel.

I've just been told it's not Noarlunga but summin with a "lunga" on the end but who cares it was a hoot. Oh and here are some photos If anyone on the cruise wants the full 4MP versions (~1.5Mb) just send me a PM. Btw. Thanks for all the nice shots of my car Maxx, they're awesome and, i needed some.

After the carting we went back thru the windy stuff, was good but i'd had enough hard steering after karting so didn't go so hard, after I had a nice "moment" at one of the turn offs i realised i wasn't quite up to it then and there. Personally I prefer having something on the agenda instead of JUST a cruise, more interesting, but that's just me.

I think the centre-cap on the Fords is larger than Skylines, so they will go on ok but there will be a gap around your centre-hub, meaning all the weight will rest on your studs which is bad. Make sure you check this, if there IS a gap you can always get a collar machined up to fill it, but if you can try to put your wheels on his Ford if you can do a straight swap then you're sweet as else there's a problem (unless cause by calipers fouling or whatever).

Maybe stretching wasn't the right word, i meant if 275's aren't too wide for 9.5" rims, but think the only limitation is going to have them fit under the guards with the offset these wheels run. But it's a moot point now, since the guy was sposed to bring them over to a mates on the weekend but never did, gotta chase him up now.

Great day all round, esp. enjoyed Noarlunga hill , and I'm immensely proud of the fact i got the go kart tyre smokin' even if it was a bit of a cheat/luck! I've got a couple of pics, nothin' special but, I'll get em up soon. Looking forward to the next SAU-SA event!