Oosh
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Posts posted by Oosh
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Oosh is a legend.
It's official I missed the link underneath the db25 connector on the H/C !!!
Wow - I didn't even notice it - thanks Oosh you're a champ.
As for me getting it working earlier than you - I doubt that very very much, since now I'm looking for a solenoid.. and I don't even know if I have one let alone what it looks like!
That's great, hopefully that's the last of your woes relating to the electronics, now on to the pnuematics...
Solenoid: I used a R33 GTST item which was very kindly donated to me by NoZila despite my repeated attempts to give him money. Cheers mate!
Hosing: If using a R33 solenoid item you need to go for 4-5mm (5/32" to 3/16") inner diameter (ID) hosing, take your solenoid along and trial fit as the two barbs are very close together and if the hoising outer diameter (OD) is too large you'll struggle to fit both with hose clamps.
T-piece: I got a brass item which was for 1/4" ID hose because i DIDN'T trial fit my hose first, but i stretched the smaller diameter hose over it no worries.
Bleed Restriction: You have several options in order of complexity and cost, solder up the brass T-piece, add a bit of hose with a restrictor, add a needle valve.
I went with second item as i don't presently have access to a drill and didn't find a valve right away (I'm also worried about vibrations changing the opening size).
When i was @ supercheap i found a plastic 6mm -> 3mm adator (for $1 on clearance), the whole inside the 3mm is ~1.5mm, so shoved that inside a length of hose and attached it to the T.
I plumbed it all in last night and it looks a little something like this:
Atmo (or plumback) ^ | | | ____________ | | | | Restrictor-> |/ | | | || || | Solenoid | | | | | | | |__ __| || ||"T" / _____________ | | _________ | | ____| |____ ___/ | <-- OUT ___________ ___ | _____________ _________ | | | ___________________________ | | ___/ | IN --> ___ | ________________________________|
Obviously the solenoid is upside down, I disconnected the hose from the actuator and that becomes "IN", then i ran hose from the "OUT" back to the actuator completing the "loop".
I've only set it up very roughly (wires are a mess atm) and made some conservative map settings (very quickly done) but i must say the car "feels" better, enough to not just chalk it up to "placebo effect", boost builds faster and with the stock turbo I'm running the power delivery feels much more progressive.
It's holding 12psi relatively well and doesn't seem to spike over 13psi, I need to get up in to the hills and spend more time on-road tuning, and then some final tweaks on the dyno are scheduled for early April.
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Holy crap Oosh I think that's it.
I really hope it is - in which case, next time im in SA beer is on me.
Thanks for the email too - I will let you know when I get home.
it is If it goes well you'll have yours fully fitted before me, I was plumbinh it in last Sunday but had the wrong hosing, and this weekend my folks are coming over to visit. It's hard for me to work on this stuff thru the week but it might happen... -
I wouldn't waste your time and money on a lawyer, it just wont get you anywhere, and because it's interstate you have even LESS chance of being successful if you do.
To put it in perspective, it's hard enough for the authorities to chase people who use dodgy tactics with bank cheques (yes, that's right, despite what they say a bank cheque is still not 100% cleared funds and as good as cash under the wrong/right circumstances) to make large purchases and piss off leaving the seller without EVER getting their money, it becomes next to impossible if they go over the state border.
It sucks, it's unethical, and the legal system isn't up to scratch. But that's the way it is atm unfortunately, I'd hate to see you throw more money away at a lawyer and get no where, if you can get one to have a "quick look" and advice you without charging like a wounded bull then run it buy them, otherwise you're just going to have soldier on and chalk it up to experience.
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... :nowigetit
UNDER the DB25 connector you say? I do not recall anything of the sort - I will check when I get home...
I took it for a spin yesterday just to checkout the behaviour - closer to redline the input hit a max of 48, with different trimpot adjustment levels. Is that normal operating range?
Also - it seemed to jump a little after 10... ie. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 10 14 18 30 etc - now.. I'm not able to drive and look at the controller like that on anything but a private road, however just wondering about the way the unit works.
Does it actually cycle through the each input level, and it's just that it moves through that level so quick it doesn't display it?
I guess I'm just wondering if it skips on my car from 8-10, is it still executing the output assigned to level 9 ?
Thanks Oosh - will let you know as soon as I get home, although I'm not sure how the hell I'm gonna un-solder the db25, I'll try to get at it from the underside
What load points it displays is based on your injector duty cycle, so if you only ever drive your injectors to 75% then you'll only ever display 75% of the load points (unless you fiddle with the bounds). As for jumping, yeah it'll just be the display not keeping up with the fast shifting inj. duty cycle, but i guess this also makes a good point for what SK was talking about using smooth ramps between points rather than large jumps in value as it can shift extremely quickly between points.
I've emailed you the hi-res photos for your comparision, but i've also attached a picture of the link position under the DB25, the arrows show the two points that need to be closed. If you have forgotten this bit, rather than removing the DB25 (which'll be a bitch), just solder a piece of INSULATED wire on the back of the PCB, don't use the normal link wire cos you could short a track if it gets pushed down on to it.
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Have you thought of contacting the police given that the condition of the car did not match the description (eg. shagged tyre, loose space saver, b0rked engine). I doubt there is much they can do, but even if they just speak to Mr En One it may give him enough of a jolt to become a bit more helpful.
Good luck: hope it works out.
Lucien.
PS. I would leave a negative Trader Rating too.
The cops cannot and will not do shit, the "ethics" maybe on demon's side, but the law in these matters is "buyer beware".
I'm sorry for your bad experience demon, and thank you for sharing so others can learn and hopefully avoid a similar situation, I hope your hip pocket doesn't take to much of a battering geting it on the road.
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If you just need an air filter go to any old car place an get one that suits VN-VS Commodores as they're the same size. If you need the air box to go with it try one of the numerous "wrecking a R32 threads"...
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Does it matter if your car is stock?
I wouldnt mind givin the stocker a boostn on the dyno to see the figure.
Sorry, you can't come, you need to have at least 400RWKW!
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LOL... as it didnt say made for
I hoped it shoud read, can fit a GTST, heres to hoping, i do a lot of that, and dreaming:)
R32 GTR bars do fit GTST's, almost, the 3 holes up top nearest the bonnet latch don't quite line up but it's no great drama. You could either make new holes or, follow Rowdy's lead and, just use cable ties!
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Now the only problem I have is that it won't go out of RUN mode.. pressing the RUN/VIEW button does nothing, holding the reset does nothing. I even tried shorting both of them - still nothing.
Anyone have any ideas?
I have an idea, on the HC, did you install the wire link that sits underneath the DB25 connector?
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Thanks very very much Oosh. I really do appreciate that. I'm glad you said injector, I would have done it wrong. I believe that's also pin 1 on the sr20 ecu (sr20 transplant).
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When you say 2nd and 3rd page I assume you mean the paper that came with the kit
No worries, happy to help, and yes the photocopy has the parts list but it sounds like you have the ICs in the correct spots now anyways.
Good luck with it all!
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Thanks Oosh I'll give it another go when I get home - I'll plug it up to the first igniter and try again.
When my h/c had blocks it was plugged in THEN powered up, but with the ICs swapped (as they are both exactly the same but apparently they have different coding on each.. god knows how they think you can tell the difference).
The RUN/VIEW button doesn't do anything - none of the buttons do not even reset.
The 1 solid LED on the whole time is actually the LED closest to the middle of the PCB, which is labelled on the PCD as "INPUT LED LOW" or something like that....
Just out of interest are you able to switch your ICs around and tell me what happens? If they display blocks on the h/c atleast I can rule out the ICs are in the wrong spots.
Thanks.
No worries, but you're going to want to hook it up to an INJECTOR signal off the ECU not an "igniter", on a R32 RB20DET Inj #1 is the top-left-most wire as you look at the back of the ECU but you'd want to verify it's the same for a ceffy.
The ICs should have a white-out SPOT on one and a LINE on the other, on the 2nd or 3rd page the parts list shows IC1 & IC2 and which is which, and by looking at the wiring diagram you can see their location on the PCB.
It's no where near as obvious as it should be i'll admit, however, it IS there in the documentation.
You sound like you have a HC or cable problem, or possibly some bad solder links on the IEBC, maybe to do the DB25 connector pins associated with the buttons. Look closely and be sure you haven't had solder splash and bridged something.
Now that i think about it since it's showing point 64 you should have 2 solid LEDs, the input and power, but let me double check mine does that when i get home. I'll be able to tell you tomorrow.
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When there is no injector pulse input it will display point 64 for RUN on the display, at least it does on mine too, once it is given an input it should be fine.
To switch between RUN and VIEW you need to hit the RUN/VIEW button on the right of the LCD.
The blocks usually appear if you plug in the hand-controller AFTER the IEBC has been powered up, make sure your cable is securely in both plugs, then power it up. You should then have one solid LED (power LED) and two blank ones, use the hand controller to adjust point 64 in RUN mode and the output LED should start blinking then become solid as you move closer to 100%.
If you're still in trouble try to take a decent resolution digital pic of BOTH sides of the PCB so people can have a look, PM me and i'll give you my email if the pic is too large to post here.
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Oosh, where did yoy find the pic about the Farina racer?
It's a sticker on top of one of RowdyR32's ECU's, he has that many of them floating around i don't know which one, i think it's from a R33 GTR but you'd have to ask him about it.
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I made a coffee on Sunday morning - and it tasted like cigarettes.
The coffee at my previous workplace regularly tasted like ciggie ash (yes I do know what it tastes like) so i wouldn't worry about it!
Also, has anyone told Nigel that car he's been driving around actually belongs to someones cuz?
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There was a spare ticket floating around work for Saturday, if i can snag it I'll drop by to say hello...
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Yeah I'm interested, May is fine and a small BBQ on side would be good, and I have no problems sharing the rollers with LS1's (esp. if they're turbo charged!
).Obviously need firmer details before i could commit 100% but at this point count me in.
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What trim wheels did they put in it and have you got an invoice from GCG you could show?
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Has it been chippped here or in Japan?
Is the chip sitting in a socket or has it been resoldered to the board, and in either case has it been epoxyd to the board too?
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I agree, but I'm afraid it sets in my mind the "level" of punter such an event would attract.
True, true, well they're trying to get one going for 9th or 16th April and I'm happy to test the water with the OCAU Adelaide camp and report back.
Dedicated OCAU Dyno Day thread: http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthre...831#post4288831
But, if SAU / LS1 gets one going before then I'll pull out and head to that instead,
if they get one going after well I'll at least turn up to spectate if not run again!
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Fair enuf SK, another thing i was wondering about was which barb on the solenoid to hook up to pressurized side and which to actuator, see my dodgy attached pic.
If the solenoid acts anything like what i put in the third one, a piston moving up and down against a spring, then I should think the second option is the better of the two. As in the first the pressure works against the spring and could conceivably push it down and cause it leak?
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Those are age old questions! I love my R32 but the engineer who designed those controls should be strung up!
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XF's are used on a lot of things, I know the CA18 boys use RB20 ones, not sure if they're an upgrade for SR's though.
If they are and you want one then PM me as I have a spare one i could sell you...
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That seals it for me.
Not a freaking chance.
That's understandable and why i mentioned it, but i doubt there's much chance of a roll-over on the dyno, LOL.
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Standard wheels
Good condition
Dunlop FM901 tyres on the rear (85%)
Falken on the front (90%)
$450 o.n.o
Do you have an idea on shipping costs to Adelaide?
If it goes well you'll have yours fully fitted before me, I was plumbinh it in last Sunday but had the wrong hosing, and this weekend my folks are coming over to visit. It's hard for me to work on this stuff thru the week but it might happen...
jaycar boost controller
in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ
Posted
There's a big thread here, read through that, and if what's there doesn't help then make a post.
In future use the Search function and you'll save yourself some time and effort.