Oosh

Count me in!

That's right, and use some sort of heavy-duty paint (e.g. factory floor stuff) and put it on with a roller! In all seriousness, find a colour put one of the big four ( Commodore / Falcon / Camry / Magna ) that is to your liking, get them to a bit more pearl and metallic and make sure you write down those quantities.

Everything I've read says that you need to have EXACTLY the same rolling radius at all 4 corners, else your ATESSA system will have a caniption fit, so that means IDENTICAL rims and tyres. And for the sake of 10mm extra why bother? just go 245 all round.

putting a vent in is as cheap as cutting a hole, making it look half decent is another matter, try the heatshield option first. Something I've seen the japs do which MIGHT be effective, albeit a bit dodgy looking, is to get slightly longer bolts to hold the bonnet hinge to the body and chuck some washers in between to space it up a bit.

If you've got a boost controller there's not much case to upgrade the actuators on RB20's as they came out the factory with 10psi items. I've just jumped straight in to electronic bost control, if you're handy with a soldering iron you can build one of the new JayCar/Autospeed kits and get away with it all for ~$200 and a few hours work. Discussion thread here. I've only set mine up roughly but I'm holding 12psi with no dramas and far better boost build-up than previously, i'm going to fine tune things but stay around the 12psi mark until I get it on the dyno next month, provided the mixtures are stable i'll rise things to 14psi but no more. My car is running a 600x300x75mm front mount, 3" exhaust from the stock dump-pipe back, Denso Supra TT Fuel pump, and a re-mapped ECU for handling more boost (which looking at it on the PC has predominantly ignition timing changes). Just make sure you have the support systems in place to handle the boost rise, a FMIC and exhaust will give you gains without it, a slightly smaller cooler and 2.5" will suffice but if you intend to eventually replace the stock turbo then a full-size item and a 3" is probably worthwhile. After they're in move it up a little but make sure you're not leaning out, if you are then drop a pump in and maybe look for an ECU re-map (you don't need a a full PowerFC system unless you intend to go BIG!). And then you can raise it a little more, after that you hit the point where bigger turbos, injectors, and more extensive re-maps come on the cards and your money goes out the window!

There's a big thread here, read through that, and if what's there doesn't help then make a post. In future use the Search function and you'll save yourself some time and effort.

That's great, hopefully that's the last of your woes relating to the electronics, now on to the pnuematics... Solenoid: I used a R33 GTST item which was very kindly donated to me by NoZila despite my repeated attempts to give him money. Cheers mate! Hosing: If using a R33 solenoid item you need to go for 4-5mm (5/32" to 3/16") inner diameter (ID) hosing, take your solenoid along and trial fit as the two barbs are very close together and if the hoising outer diameter (OD) is too large you'll struggle to fit both with hose clamps. T-piece: I got a brass item which was for 1/4" ID hose because i DIDN'T trial fit my hose first, but i stretched the smaller diameter hose over it no worries. Bleed Restriction: You have several options in order of complexity and cost, solder up the brass T-piece, add a bit of hose with a restrictor, add a needle valve. I went with second item as i don't presently have access to a drill and didn't find a valve right away (I'm also worried about vibrations changing the opening size). When i was @ supercheap i found a plastic 6mm -> 3mm adator (for $1 on clearance), the whole inside the 3mm is ~1.5mm, so shoved that inside a length of hose and attached it to the T. I plumbed it all in last night and it looks a little something like this: Atmo (or plumback) ^ | | | ____________ | | | | Restrictor-> |/ | | | || || | Solenoid | | | | | | | |__ __| || ||"T" / _____________ | | _________ | | ____| |____ ___/ | <-- OUT ___________ ___ | _____________ _________ | | | ___________________________ | | ___/ | IN --> ___ | ________________________________| Obviously the solenoid is upside down, I disconnected the hose from the actuator and that becomes "IN", then i ran hose from the "OUT" back to the actuator completing the "loop". I've only set it up very roughly (wires are a mess atm) and made some conservative map settings (very quickly done) but i must say the car "feels" better, enough to not just chalk it up to "placebo effect", boost builds faster and with the stock turbo I'm running the power delivery feels much more progressive. It's holding 12psi relatively well and doesn't seem to spike over 13psi, I need to get up in to the hills and spend more time on-road tuning, and then some final tweaks on the dyno are scheduled for early April.

it is If it goes well you'll have yours fully fitted before me, I was plumbinh it in last Sunday but had the wrong hosing, and this weekend my folks are coming over to visit. It's hard for me to work on this stuff thru the week but it might happen...

I wouldn't waste your time and money on a lawyer, it just wont get you anywhere, and because it's interstate you have even LESS chance of being successful if you do. To put it in perspective, it's hard enough for the authorities to chase people who use dodgy tactics with bank cheques (yes, that's right, despite what they say a bank cheque is still not 100% cleared funds and as good as cash under the wrong/right circumstances) to make large purchases and piss off leaving the seller without EVER getting their money, it becomes next to impossible if they go over the state border. It sucks, it's unethical, and the legal system isn't up to scratch. But that's the way it is atm unfortunately, I'd hate to see you throw more money away at a lawyer and get no where, if you can get one to have a "quick look" and advice you without charging like a wounded bull then run it buy them, otherwise you're just going to have soldier on and chalk it up to experience.

What load points it displays is based on your injector duty cycle, so if you only ever drive your injectors to 75% then you'll only ever display 75% of the load points (unless you fiddle with the bounds). As for jumping, yeah it'll just be the display not keeping up with the fast shifting inj. duty cycle, but i guess this also makes a good point for what SK was talking about using smooth ramps between points rather than large jumps in value as it can shift extremely quickly between points. I've emailed you the hi-res photos for your comparision, but i've also attached a picture of the link position under the DB25, the arrows show the two points that need to be closed. If you have forgotten this bit, rather than removing the DB25 (which'll be a bitch), just solder a piece of INSULATED wire on the back of the PCB, don't use the normal link wire cos you could short a track if it gets pushed down on to it.

The cops cannot and will not do shit, the "ethics" maybe on demon's side, but the law in these matters is "buyer beware". I'm sorry for your bad experience demon, and thank you for sharing so others can learn and hopefully avoid a similar situation, I hope your hip pocket doesn't take to much of a battering geting it on the road.

If you just need an air filter go to any old car place an get one that suits VN-VS Commodores as they're the same size. If you need the air box to go with it try one of the numerous "wrecking a R32 threads"...

Sorry, you can't come, you need to have at least 400RWKW!

R32 GTR bars do fit GTST's, almost, the 3 holes up top nearest the bonnet latch don't quite line up but it's no great drama. You could either make new holes or, follow Rowdy's lead and, just use cable ties!

I have an idea, on the HC, did you install the wire link that sits underneath the DB25 connector?

No worries, happy to help, and yes the photocopy has the parts list but it sounds like you have the ICs in the correct spots now anyways. Good luck with it all!

No worries, but you're going to want to hook it up to an INJECTOR signal off the ECU not an "igniter", on a R32 RB20DET Inj #1 is the top-left-most wire as you look at the back of the ECU but you'd want to verify it's the same for a ceffy. The ICs should have a white-out SPOT on one and a LINE on the other, on the 2nd or 3rd page the parts list shows IC1 & IC2 and which is which, and by looking at the wiring diagram you can see their location on the PCB. It's no where near as obvious as it should be i'll admit, however, it IS there in the documentation. You sound like you have a HC or cable problem, or possibly some bad solder links on the IEBC, maybe to do the DB25 connector pins associated with the buttons. Look closely and be sure you haven't had solder splash and bridged something. Now that i think about it since it's showing point 64 you should have 2 solid LEDs, the input and power, but let me double check mine does that when i get home. I'll be able to tell you tomorrow.

When there is no injector pulse input it will display point 64 for RUN on the display, at least it does on mine too, once it is given an input it should be fine. To switch between RUN and VIEW you need to hit the RUN/VIEW button on the right of the LCD. The blocks usually appear if you plug in the hand-controller AFTER the IEBC has been powered up, make sure your cable is securely in both plugs, then power it up. You should then have one solid LED (power LED) and two blank ones, use the hand controller to adjust point 64 in RUN mode and the output LED should start blinking then become solid as you move closer to 100%. If you're still in trouble try to take a decent resolution digital pic of BOTH sides of the PCB so people can have a look, PM me and i'll give you my email if the pic is too large to post here.

It's a sticker on top of one of RowdyR32's ECU's, he has that many of them floating around i don't know which one, i think it's from a R33 GTR but you'd have to ask him about it.

The coffee at my previous workplace regularly tasted like ciggie ash (yes I do know what it tastes like) so i wouldn't worry about it! Also, has anyone told Nigel that car he's been driving around actually belongs to someones cuz?

There was a spare ticket floating around work for Saturday, if i can snag it I'll drop by to say hello...

Yeah I'm interested, May is fine and a small BBQ on side would be good, and I have no problems sharing the rollers with LS1's (esp. if they're turbo charged! ). Obviously need firmer details before i could commit 100% but at this point count me in.

What trim wheels did they put in it and have you got an invoice from GCG you could show?

Has it been chippped here or in Japan? Is the chip sitting in a socket or has it been resoldered to the board, and in either case has it been epoxyd to the board too?

True, true, well they're trying to get one going for 9th or 16th April and I'm happy to test the water with the OCAU Adelaide camp and report back. Dedicated OCAU Dyno Day thread: http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthre...831#post4288831 But, if SAU / LS1 gets one going before then I'll pull out and head to that instead, if they get one going after well I'll at least turn up to spectate if not run again!