Oosh

Fair enuf SK, another thing i was wondering about was which barb on the solenoid to hook up to pressurized side and which to actuator, see my dodgy attached pic. If the solenoid acts anything like what i put in the third one, a piston moving up and down against a spring, then I should think the second option is the better of the two. As in the first the pressure works against the spring and could conceivably push it down and cause it leak?

Those are age old questions! I love my R32 but the engineer who designed those controls should be strung up!

XF's are used on a lot of things, I know the CA18 boys use RB20 ones, not sure if they're an upgrade for SR's though. If they are and you want one then PM me as I have a spare one i could sell you...

That's understandable and why i mentioned it, but i doubt there's much chance of a roll-over on the dyno, LOL.

Do you have an idea on shipping costs to Adelaide?

That's cool, I just want to get on the dyno in the next few weeks, and if I can save some money and be invloved in an event in the process, all the better! I don't really think they're much of a ricer crew (someone was talking of slapping a Valiant on there!) but obviously I don't KNOW, my guess would be the biggest problem is a possible abundance of "grommies" hanging around, but in my experience you tend to get that at a lot of these events. Interestingly enough, their last Cruise culminated in somebody rolling their parents' car! http://www.ratemyparking.net/vote.php?eid=31 It was all at quite low-speed and nobody got hurt thankfully.

So you'd definately see a difference between the above and say setting:... 13 - 0 14 - 0 15 - 0 16 - 5 17 - 6 18 - 8 19 -10 ? That's very interesting because i spent a fair amount of time last night testing (out of the car) the R33 solenoid i have. It SEEMS to only genuinely operated between 5% & 90% Duty, down to 3% and up to 92% some VERY faint movement could be heard but the piston definately wasn't throwing back forth fully, but maybe still enough to vent a little. Since i was going by ear and didn't have a pressurised air source it's hard to tell. But, your results seem to suggest that it does do something down that low, which is excellent since they recommend a 15%-80% operating range. As always, good work Nissan for another excellent component!

Last weekend there seemed to be a general consensus from SAU people at the 4/6/Rotor Nats that a Dyno Day was in order. And on my travels around OCAU (Overclockers Australia), who incidently have some rather active Motoring forums, I found this: UPDATE: New thread to seperate from the cruise here: http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthre...831#post4288831 You'll need to signup as there's no anonymous viewing allowed. If you can't be arsed I'm happy to relay any questions or suggestions. So who's interested in helping SAU take on OCAU and blow them away?

The % relates to what % of time the solenoid is energised*. So, on a Normally-Closed type (i.e. a R33 stocko solenoid) it will is the % of time the solenoid is OPEN, allowing air to pass thru it and reach the actuator. More air at the actuator = less boost. Therefore, 0% = Max boost, 100% = Min Boost. *However, this can be swapped about with 0% meaning fully energised and 100% no energy by changing one of the links, this is to accomodate the less-desirable Normally-Open type solenoids so that it still maps 0%=Max Boost, so be sure yours matches the setup doc.

And a couple more for good measure...

Some pictures from the day...

Thanks SK, I think I'll run with a 1mm hole then, one other Q: To start with I'm just going to bleed it to atmo, but i'd like to plumb it back eventually, is the best strategy the same as BOV plumb-back i.e. after the AFM but before the Compressor?

If he's a mate, why not trial fit them? You'll be able to tell pretty quickly if the stud pattern is incorrect. Next check the hub fits snugly in the hole in the centre of the rim, if the hole is too large you'll need some sort of spacer, just an alloy cylinder to fit over the hub and make it larger. This is important as the hub should bare the weight of the car NOT the studs. Then look at the offset, the wheels shouldn't stick out TOO much further than the stockies unless they're significantly wider, and on the front be sure to turn lock-to-lock and see nothing scrapes.

Hooked the IEBC up to the Inj #1 signal and the load points displayed on the Hand-Controller matched perfectly with the Duty Cycle % displayed on my Impakt DigiDash (1 load point = ~1.5%). I should be picking up a R33 solenoid before the end of the week, then get the extra hosing and fittings and install it on the weekend, i'll try to take some pictures and maybe slap something in the DIY section for other R32 owners... Now on to a QUESTION about the the solder "valve", I'm still running a stock RB20 turbo which looked fine when it was off 2-3 months ago but i don't want to push it past 12psi, with the valve essentially being a bleed it's going to raise the minimum boost I can hold yes? And since i'm already holding 10psi as is, it doesn't seem like i have much wiggle room, only 2psi in fact. Note: My main reason for installing this atm is to get the car coming on boost quicker not necessarily to run more boost. So, how small a bleed should i go, how small is too small (i.e. the point when the air trapped between the actuator and solenoid, when it snaps shut, can't escape quick enough causing w'gate creep!) ?

I actually kept a closer eye on my revs when i headed home from work last night and I'll revise that figure and say i TEND to keep it under 3000RPM but as i mentioned i don't watch it like a hawk.

I dunno about no >2500RPM for 10 mins, there's no way I'd spend that long that low with my RB20DET, i'd never get anywhere! For me i just pay attention to how "hard" i drive it rather than keeping it below a set Revs amount, I'll rev up to 3500RPM odd but do it smoothly, no sharp acceleration or hard launches, until it gets warm!

I was originally a little skeptical about these kits, and it still remains to be seen through personal experience, but i decided to throw caution to the wind and build them on the weekend. My experiences so far are very positive, just a couple of pointers re: construction that helped me and might do the same for others. 1. Do NOT use the solder provided, IMO it's too fat, I used 0.56mm which was thinner than necessary but is what i had lying around, i think 0.70mm would be the sweet spot. Just gives you better control and esp. good for IC sockets and DB connectors. **IEBC** 2. Watch out for LK5 (Link 5), if you blindly follow the silk-screening (like i did) you will connect it the wrong way around (to -ve instead of +ve), read and re-read all the documentation. **Hand-Controller** 3. Despite the instructions, which i misread, you CAN solder the pin-header to the top side on the LCD PCB. Just don't hold the iron there too long or you risk melting the screen. It was half advantagous i messed this up as i ended up with the black plastic bit between the 2 PCBS which provided a more stable support. I'm not suggesting you do it deliberately, but don't worry if you repeat my performance, it'll still work fine (as long as you haven't cooked the screen that is). 4. You needn't fret too much (certainly not as much as the doco makes out) about the button alignment. Just push them all in to PCB (lining up the straight edges with the PCB markings). Then get a flat bit of plastic and press on the under side so all the pins are flush (none poking thru the PCB). Flip it over and rest the PCB edges on the edges of the empty case bottom, with the buttons dangling in to the cavity, now you can solder all the buttons in one go without knocking them about. Your final alignment with the lid's holes may not be 100% but it'll do, if you f'up bad just break out the solder braid, or sucker if you're lucky enough to have one, and try again. 5. Ignore the 40% clockwise contrast setting, just wind it all the way to the clock-wise, else you'll sh!t yourself when nothing appears. Thankfully others had mentioned that here previous so i was calm-ish when it happened to me! So far all i've done is build it and hook up power and adjust the one load point i can see, watching the LED flash appropriately, I'll hook it up to an injector ECU pin soon and hopefully pick up a solenoid shortly.

yeah it was good day and was great to meet you all.. cheers for organising it.

Thanks, do you still have the "display film", if so what condition is it in?

http://www.finalkonnexion.co.jp/lineup/lin...eup_nissan.html

What car have they come off and where abouts in Melb are you?

Care to post a link so we can get a better idea of the product? Cheers.

I think you're confusing this with a full ECU replacement (i.e PowerFC), this "Mines ECU" is a re-map of the stock R33 computer, there's no way in hell it'll work on a 1JZ. You'd struggle to make it work on any other RB series engine (i'm sure it's possible but hardly cost effective).

I would have thought that it's a good advertisment for encouraging people to join. The members only section is good for keeping Club Member ONLY activities, i.e. the cruise, on the down-low and when they pop up in the newsletter it's usually going to be after the fact so it doesn't really matter. My 2c.