Oosh
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Posts posted by Oosh
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Hey guyz
Finally got my 32 on the road and have noticed that in sum gears it seems to lag.
Now im not to sure whether becoz it was sitting in japan for 5mnths without being driven and when it arrived it had no fuel at all so possible sum shit is blocking the injectors but yeh not running the best
The engine is a stock rb20.. no other visible modifications.
Not sure wat psi its running either..
When you punch 1st and 2nd gear the car seems to respond particularly well.. however when your just crawling and then put ur foot on the gas say when ur in 2nd there is a short wait b4 the car decides to move, same with 3rd gear too
Seems to me like its missing...
Um any suggestions?
Thanks Joe!
They don't have much low down torque you need to keep it up in the rev range a bit, between shift changes do you:
* Clutch in, change gear, clutch out, THEN get on the gas,
OR
* Clutch in, change gear, get on the gas and clutch out as the revs are rising?
You need to be doing the latter, after having driven a V6 auto commo for the 3 years prior to getting my skyline it took me a little while to get out of habit of just putting the foot down and expecting something to happen, I'd just put it in to gear then put the foot down and it reacted very sluggishly just as you're describing. But maybe that was just me.
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Have you checked to see if you're getting any spark?
DISCLAIMER: While i have performed this myself and believe the below to be correct i am NOT a mechanic, I'm a backyard tinkerer, you do it all at your own risk. Just take it slowly and be methodical, don't rush anything, but if you're not confident in your abilities resign yourself to paying a mechanic to do it for you.
1. Disconnect power to the injectors (pretty sure they're grouped in to 3's and there's 2 plugs power them just trace the wires back and unplug).
2. Pull the coil packs off the spark plugs, leave the coils on those 2 rails in groups of 3, just undo the rails and lift.
3. Check your spark plugs now if you haven't already.
If there's nothing obviously wrong with the plugs put them back in and move on.
4. Pull all the rubber boots off the 6 coil packs, be careful the spings don't fall out the end, it CAN happen.
5. IMPORTANT! Use something to mark the position of Crank Angle Sensor (a blob of whiteout overlapping the CAS and timing cover works).
6. Undo the 3 bolts and pull the CAS off.
7. Rest the coil packs so they're tips are a short distance from, but NOT touching, the head or anywhere that's well earthed.
8. Turn the ignition to ON (don't try and start it!).
9. Take the CAS in your hand with the little "stick" facing you and rotate that stick ANTI-CLOCKWISE.
You should get sparks leaping from the tips of the coils to the rocker cover one by one over and over. If indiviual coils spark sometimes and not others make sure there's a clear and clean path for it to spark to and from and that you're not turning it clockwise as it sparks unpredicatbly when you do.
To put it all back in, turn off the ignition, and go in reverse taking care with CAS, manipulate the stick until it slots over and the whole thing slides on, don't force it, then line those marks you made back up otherwise your timing will be out. Plug the injectors back in etc etc.
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Google for "Irfanview" it's freeware and has batch processing features, throw a bunch of picks at, set the size / % and it'll do the lot automatically.
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Personally I think you're better off with the stock air box and a good panel filter and cold air intake, but if you must run a pod then you DEFINATLEY need to shield it, esp. in a hot climate like Brissy.
Take a look at the CAI thread stickied at the top of this forum.
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Have heard a few people like to enclose their air intakes as to stop the hot air from the engine bay going through the engine. Does a Heat shield or a complete enclosure make much of a difference?
are you talking about pods here or stock air boxes?
Pod, certainly, i wouldn't consider running one without some sort of partion/shield and a CAI.
Airbox, highly doubtful, but it wouldn't hurt.
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I'm not disputing you got a fine but i was under the impression you couldn't get "on the spot" fines because it had to be tested properly. Even their website pretty much says as much...
linkIndividual Motor Vehicles
It is an offence to own or use a vehicle that exceeds noise limits in the vehicle emissions regulations. EPA can require a vehicle to be presented at one of its approved motor vehicle noise testers to determine compliance with the limits. A list of EPA approved noise testers is available.
The police also spot and report noisy vehicles and refer them to EPA for noise testing if appropriate.
I say fix up your exhaust, take it to an approved tester, then dispute the fine and send the test results in.
If they CAN issue on the spot fines then you might get away with this ONCE, so i suggest you don't just swap the noisy one back, invest in a good flowing LEGAL exhaust they do exist.
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if visiual inspection of the intercooler piping turns up nothing, try this: get a spray bottle full of water and a little detergent, spray it over all the hose clamps etc. give her rev and any bubbles will show there's a leak.
Hope it is something simple like a boost leak.
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If cars are parked long enough in spots they shouldn't be the council WILL just take them away and you mightn't get much if any warning. Happened to a mate's kingswood, it got canaried for sitting there and we were getting ready to tow it and then it disappeared, it was POS so he didn't pursue it.
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i'll be the tallest guy there. easy enough to spot
Well then maybe we'll be able to see each other over the forest of short arses
as i'm pretty tall myself... -
Usually people who do engine swaps have em left over. .
Yeap, that's why i've got my spare one, but it's staying here as a spare. I'd be happy to lend it out but i think the distance in this case coudl make things impracticle.
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It's a shit load of work, you need some pretty dedicated people to get it going, but i'm sure if you spoke to some of the Vic guys, "Snowman", "Adzmax", "R31Nismoid", etc. they'll be able to give you some tips.
The CAMS accreditation is the important thing, without that you've not got much more than a mothers meeting, but with cars.
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I went to Shitzenface '03 was a fun day, shame i'm not moving over until 29th else i'd be in, guess i'll just wait for '06. *sigh*
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i also have some settings.dat error message on startup.
always happens until you run it and save-settings.
also you need to download the 1.7Mb zip at the top of the thread THEN replace the default exe with f revision exe (~400kb). I got the f by itslef and it confused teh crap outta me.
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Well unless you all have SAU tatoo'd on your foreheads and i can pick you out in a crowd it'd be nice to meet up with some of you beforehand.
So if there's a SAU pre-meet up i want in!
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I'm moving over the Adelaide in a couple of weeks so if there's a group of SAU-SA people going to spectate or compete it'd be good to organise something and meet up with some fellow 'liners.
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okay got a converter and tried it out last night, i felt so Fast&Furious driving around with the laptop in my car
but some comments (please note this is the only software i've used so far):* The user interface is rubbish and confusing.
* The ROM dump most certainly doesn't take 11 mins, after 11 mins i wasn't even 10% complete.
* The auto ECU detect worked fine for my RB20DET.
* The logging does its job, i was supprised at how often it sampled but many consecutive readings were the same at ALL variables so i kinda question if it was an update or a copy of teh previous.
* The application doesn't exit properly, after you close it it leaves a process called "Consult" running which muck you up if you open TECU again.
On the whole i think it's a promising product and above all it's free but it has a way to go yet, simple things like using check-boxes when it should be radio buttons, the UI REALLY let it down and is so important.
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You're pretty much on the money, the spring tension in aftermarket atmo items is usually much higher than stock plumbbacks, a slight leak when you plumb back doesn't matter so its not seen as a problem.
If you get a bigger spring it should help, Nigel from ICE has 2 x GTR BOVs vented to air on his Supra, not sure if he did this (or maybe his dont leak) you'd have to ask him about it.
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Post in your local forum and see if some kind soul (with either a RB20/26) will lend you theirs for 5 minutes.
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Even stock GTR items leak slighty, RowdyR32 had his venting to atmo on his RB26 GTST and it idled like shit, he added some ducted vacuum sockets (which seal under vacuum) and the idle improved greatly but they still leaked under boost.
Looked kinda cool tho with his vacuum flaps snapping open and shut when the BOV vented!
It was a good experiment but not something you'd do long term, he's now got his own plumb-back piping and it runs a lot better all round. -
Further the head-lights, the little inserts that clip back in to the guards, are they still there or have they snapped of (like most seem to)?
Cheers.
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an r32 gtst i feel just looks like a bigger s13
thems fightin' words!
can't say i agree but i know how these associations work, you never get them out of your head, so why try and prove otherwise...
as i'm pretty tall myself...
R32 dodgy start up and cold running
in General Maintenance
Posted
the most common culprit for this sort of thing with R32's is coil packs. there's a lot of thread regard these stalling/start up issue so search around...